[rob_macca67]

Hi all....
This will be my 1st post (newby) on this site. I've been seating in the background doing some research as to what I can do to my new '93 LWB Vitara Estate...
Questions that I seek answers for:
(1) What is the Gear Reduction Ratio for the Transfer Box in this vehicle?

(2) Re: Tyres - I was advised to just stick to 215/75/15 Muddies as I won't lose any Power, etc, but from what I've read, everybody seems to run 235/75/15's...... How does this effect onroad grunt/takeoff & towing + also offroad low range performance?

(3) If I install Uni-Air Filter,extractors & exhaust, will this help compensate for any loss in running 235 size tyres?

(4) BULLBARS - I purchased a Alloy bullbar from the wreckers for a '93 Vitara, but it didn't fit. I was told by a manufacturer of Alloy Bullbars that it was off a SWB and that the LWB & SWB's are different --- Is This TRUE??

thanks in advance

Rob McDowall

[royce]

lowrange is 1.816:1 high range is 1:1

I use 235/75 and dont seem to have any worries, but going from a sierra with 31's to an injected vitara it seems like a rocketship anyway

the big factor with bigger tires is weight, those will help with any tires but probably more once your moving rather than taking off

yes SWB and LWB are different, I dont know if different years are different as well but I dont think so

[The_GRIZZ]

I use 235/75 as well, mine can tow a trailer full of junk (trail normly gets towed behind a patrol), has no engine mods and it's fine.

[rob_macca67]

royce wrote:

lowrange is 1.816:1 high range is 1:1

I use 235/75 and dont seem to have any worries, but going from a sierra with 31's to an injected vitara it seems like a rocketship anyway

the big factor with bigger tires is weight, those will help with any tires but probably more once your moving rather than taking off

yes SWB and LWB are different, I dont know if different years are different as well but I dont think so

RIM SIZE - The vitara came with Chrome 5.5x15 rims..... can I fit 235's to these rims or do I need to go to a wider rim?

What other vehicles run the SAME Stud Pattern as the Suzuki's?

The Guy at the Tyre Shop (he use to race Vitaras) told me to find a set of Rims off a "Widetrack" Sierra as this will give me better stability (wider track). I found a set and the off-set is 20mm more, making the rim stick out 20mm more than the ones I have now -- This would definitely pose a problem if I went 235's...... I guess I would need to fit some Flares......

Does anyone use the Widetrack rims on their Vitara's?

cheers

Rob McDowall

[rob_macca67]

The_GRIZZ wrote:

I use 235/75 as well, mine can tow a trailer full of junk (trail normly gets towed behind a patrol), has no engine mods and it's fine.

Grizz......
Do you have to "slip" the clutch on take-off when towing.... especially when you have to take-off on a hill??

cheers.....

Rob Mc

[royce]

technically you cant fit 235 to the stock rims, they are too narrow by the rules of tire fitting but plenty or people do with no problems

you can get the standard wide track rims with a bit more offset but really a vitara doesnt need it they are wider than a hilux anyway

I have -13mm offset 7" rims (the most offset you can get in a 7" rim) and they scrub like buggery on the back of the wheel arch and rear guards and need big flares, was a mistake getting them, ideally you should go for a 6" with a little more offset than a vit has to fill the guards a bit better

jeeps, ladas and kia's are the same but you can buy new sunraysias in pretty much whatever width and offset you want for them new.

I also tow a little trailer with camping gear in it and a little glass boat, I dont think either is really heavy (trailer loaded might be 400kg) and taking off is fine, its the jump to 2nd that sucks, 1st is pretty low in a vit

[The_GRIZZ]

I haven't tried taking off up a hill yet but to take off normally the clutch needs to be "slipped" but once moving it's fine i don't have any trouble from 1st gear to 2nd it just goes. but on the crap roads around cairns you know the trailers there 'cause it gets a weird movement trough the car other than that it's fine it'll be different in a LWB to my SWB extra length might get ride of some feedback from trailer movement.

[sp1086]

Isn't a SWB Vit 1.5:1 on Low Range 4th?

Does this mean the LWB models have different transfer gears!

Or am I mistaken?

[steve]

hey watchout chris, you bloody trouble makers

[rodw]

Mate, I don't think you will have any problems with the larger tyres. My 93 LWB 4 door was an import and came with Factory 16x6 rims. Whan I got it, it had 205/80 R16's on it which works out at 734.4 mm diameter, no problems at all on stock suspension.

So if you put 235/75 R15's on you rig, you will end up with a 733.5 mm diameter tyre so you should have no problems.

With regards with Bull bar mounts, You live in Brisbane, I just got TJM Coopers Plains to make new mounts for my Alloy bar after a 2" body lift for about $250. Probably more than what you paid for the bar, but cheaper than $1k for a new bar! Not saying you need to use TJM, but You might have somebody else near by that can make you a set of mounts.

Now my Rig had extractors and standard air inlet on it and I also have a set of 29" Super Swampers on 15" rims. These are close to stock diameter (723.9mm) and I can't feel any difference between the two sets of tyres, but with the Swampers, I notice the lower clearance as I seem to hit a few more more things with the front crossmember. Your 215/75 R15's are only 703.5 mm in diameter. However, the Swampers get me further in the bush, but I using them every day on a DD is not pleasant, so I got 2 sets of tyres. Go the bigger tyres and be done with it.

If you can afford to, get put in some OME suspension and possibly a body lift from Just Cruisin to get tthat darn front cross member up a bit higher. I think mine is too low and have plans to lift another 60mm, which I think will make a huge difference, but that is another story. With all of that done, I will be looking at upgrading to at least 31' but possibly 32" tyres....

[sp1086]

Good luck with 32"s unless you plan to start cutting out the guards and fire wall or moving the front control arms forward about 1.5".

I have 31x10.5x15 Xtreme Treckers on 15x7 -13 offset rims on my SWB Vit and I have a 3" body lift and about 4" CALMINI suspension and I still had to bash crap out of the fire wall and kiss them plastic inner guards buy buy..

Also if you plan on going 60mm higher at the front I recommend you look at dropping the front diff down 50mm or so to give the CV's any chance of surviving!

I have a pair of OME rears with optional 50mm extentions if anyone wants to make an offer. Only 10mths old no dings. Retail is $300 for a pair.

[royce]

moving the front hubs forward is pretty easy and does open up heaps of room for tires

also straightens up the CV angle which will help with strength

[rodw]

sp1086 wrote:

I have a pair of OME rears with optional 50mm extentions if anyone wants to make an offer. Only 10mths old no dings. Retail is $300 for a pair.

royce wrote:

moving the front hubs forward is pretty easy and does open up heaps of room for tires

also straightens up the CV angle which will help with strength

Chris, Yes, the diff drop brackets are part of the plan. I have the OME Rears which I are only a couple of months old, but I am interested in the extensions, I'll send you a PM.

Royce, How do you go about moving the front axle forward?

[royce]

you bash the lip on the crossmember flat and redrill the mounting hole for the back mount on the lower control arm out roughly halfway between the original hole and the edge of the lip

this also brings the castor up to around 4 degrees and gives a fair bit of camber, which isnt a bad thing if you have a fair wack of lift

you may also need to space the driveshafts as well, or do the mod to run dual passenger shafts or go to GV or hilux stuff (not I dont know if GV is actually the right length)

[sp1086]

mmmm Interesting

[crikeymike]

royce wrote:

you bash the lip on the crossmember flat and redrill the mounting hole for the back mount on the lower control arm out roughly halfway between the original hole and the edge of the lip

this also brings the castor up to around 4 degrees and gives a fair bit of camber, which isnt a bad thing if you have a fair wack of lift

This is most commonly called "Hagen's Widening mod", from the guy off Zukiworld.com, Mike Hagen.

[royce]

he's the guy that made the Toyota CV kit isnt he? then thats where I learnt it

bugger of thing to fit that kit, strong though

[cj_zuki]

royce wrote:

he's the guy that made the Toyota CV kit isnt he?

No, it's his mate Stan that made up the Toy CV mod.