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Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:06 am 
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Guys,
Need your help in diagnosing this one.
1.3 Carby engine. It is getting warm, around 3/4 to almost hot. Used to always run under 1/4
When driving I can see the Tstat open and close by the temperature change (I think). Heater works fine. But top Rad hose doesnt feel warm, and when I open the cap while running it spews out.

Has had new water pump, head gasket, new T-stat (89 deg) in last 6 months or so.
I flushed radiator on weekend, no lumps, and came out clear. Seemd to flow ok. Put the hose into the block and it seemed to flow out as much as it was going in.

Any suggestions?
Cheers

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:10 am 
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bled cooling system?

replace thermostat, it may be sticking.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:11 am 
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Air bubble. Does the heater flow? Did you bleed the system with the heater on hot? Are the hoses to the carby flowing ok?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:28 am 
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Thermostat was replaced on last weekend gone, Head gasket was done in January. Water pump was in december 2009.

As for bleeding the cooling system....
Ran on idle with rad cap off until water came out the top....... Heater was on when flushing and running...

When I rev the engine with cap off, the level of water drops. So im guessing pump is flowing.

As for carby hoses etc, No leaks, but will check them on weekend for blockage

Anythimg else... or is it off with its head?????

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:36 am 
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Don't touch the head, it's not the problem. There has to be an air bubble. Try re-bleeding again.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:50 am 
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bad earth throwing your temp sensor out. After I cleaned my radiator out I found this to be my problem when I had similar symptoms.

Oh well my radiator should hopefully handle the 1.6 now anyway.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:56 am 
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Bad earth.. Maybe, but thats a different issue to get rid of....
but as I said earlier, the top rad hose is not hot when the temp is reading 1/2 or more. Water splashed onto head/ intake manifold will sizzle and evaporate.

Whats the best way to bleed the system scrawn?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:01 am 
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if the top hose is cold and the manifold is hot its the thermostat not opening, either by fault or air under it

pull it out and test it by putting it in a opt and sticking it on the stove, then drill a small hole in it to help bleed air around it

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:03 am 
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oops :oops: missed that point. :roll:

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Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2008 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:06 am 
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royce wrote:
if the top hose is cold and the manifold is hot its the thermostat not opening, either by fault or air under it

pull it out and test it by putting it in a opt and sticking it on the stove, then drill a small hole in it to help bleed air around it


X2 Most thermostats have a small hole to bleed through. This should be mounted towards the front of the car.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:07 am 
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As Royce suggested with the thermostat.

Some systems can just be a bitch to bleed. I would leave the cap off, heater to hot (with fan on low so you can feel when it's hot) and let it run for half an hour or more. Keep checking ALL the hoses for temperature. It may just take some time to get the bubble out.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:08 am 
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Thanks Royce
Been waiting for your input.
I will open up the bleeder hole in the thermo (and/or also cut off that tab)
But the thermo is brand new!

When bleeding it last time after flush. It got warm (say 10 mins on idle), Heater on.... then just blew about a litre or more out of the top of the radiator... Its like when the thermostat opened up all the pressure came thru,

Anything else?

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:09 am 
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Cool, thanks guys will do and see.

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Post Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 2:04 am 
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doesnt matter if its new, still test it!

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