[5ierra]

What about the steering arms hitting and so fourth??? I know Shep had some issues with his RUF (shock hitting???) and he ended up moving his shock mounts 30mm back...

What can be an issue by doing an RUF, what's a simple RUF that you can do that wont cause any problems?

Cheers

[S13RR4]

5ierra wrote:

What about the steering arms hitting and so fourth??? I know Shep had some issues with his RUF (shock hitting???) and he ended up moving his shock mounts 30mm back...

What can be an issue by doing an RUF, what's a simple RUF that you can do that wont cause any problems?

Cheers

x2

[tanshi]

i doubt you will figure out a "simple" ruf.
or at least any simpler than it already is.

just do some measuring up.
You can probably get away with moving your diff forward an inch without the steering arms binding.

you can drill the rear hole further back. run a longer shackle at the front, and redril the holes on your diff to ajust where your diff ends up.

[eldo]

i had a look at the rear mounts today on my NT lwb and they are alot smaller than the WT's. so it seems i will only get about 10mm out of the rear mount. have any of you guys plated your NT mounts to move the spring further back?

[v.w.dave]

Moph wrote:

I want to keep them as short as possible though ... longer lines = spongier brake pedal and poorer braking response. Might have a look for some new KE70 Corolla rears / Swift fronts which apparently fit straight up and are 4" longer. Would prefer 2" extended though...

??? wrong.....

If you get braided lines you will not have brake fade caused by the lines.
I am not going to get into the quontum physics of it but its the heat that causes the rubber style brake lines to swell up under heat. the brake lines swelling up gives the brake fluid easier and more places to go other then to the brake piston.
Simply put fluid will travel to the point of least resistance.
With long lines you need to put a spring or something on them to hold them back off the wheel.

[Choppy]

I am redrilling my spring hanger holes for my RUF

I have a WT so I will be redrilling th holes 20mm back and 10mm up in accordance with the information in this thread

questions

1. When re-drilling the spring hanger hole are the measurments taken from eye to eye or edge to edge?

2. are the mearurments taken on a plain parallel to the ground (horizontal), as seen in the picture, or are they parrallel to the spring hanger (the blue line in the picture)?

[Fatzook]

Moph wrote:

I want to keep them as short as possible though ... longer lines = spongier brake pedal and poorer braking response. Might have a look for some new KE70 Corolla rears / Swift fronts which apparently fit straight up and are 4" longer. Would prefer 2" extended though...

Stainless steel braided lines. Nuff said.

[Choppy]

Choppy wrote:

I am redrilling my spring hanger holes for my RUF

I have a WT so I will be redrilling th holes 20mm back and 10mm up in accordance with the information in this thread

questions

1. When re-drilling the spring hanger hole are the measurments taken from eye to eye or edge to edge?

2. are the mearurments taken on a plain parallel to the ground (horizontal), as seen in the picture, or are they parrallel to the spring hanger (the blue line in the picture)?

anybody?
ive done up some 100mm shackles and will be using standard sierra rears, after doing some reading im a little bit confused as to whether or not this is going to work without moving my diff too far forward and if ill have to extend the the chasis, both of which i dont want to do.

[brodiezook]

i have 2 inch rears in the front of mine with extended shackles and still in original position everwhere i was happy with the how far the diff moved foward just by using the springs







and i think it works pretty well

[Choppy]

brodiezook wrote:

i have 2 inch rears in the front of mine with extended shackles and still in original position everwhere i was happy with the how far the diff moved foward just by using the springs







and i think it works pretty well

indeed it does, little confused did it move forwards or not?
where abouts did you re-drill the spring hanger?

[Hybrid]

He's saying he didn't redrill it. Must have made longer shackles than what people normally run. I'd reccommend running some caster wedges with longer shackles. She wont wander at speed with the wedges. Though the lateral flex in the longer shackles might make the wander worse. I actually run wedges even with stock shackles. It's nice to have a sierra track in a straight line on the freeway, even with the August winds.

[S13RR4]

I dont think he redrilled the spring hanger Choppy, was just stating his delight in how far his RUF moved his diff forward.

Someone must have an answer to this...

[Fatzook]

if you don't re-drill the fixed hanger you diff will be 25-30mm forward. with 1/2 RUF ( when you re-drill the hanger) you will still be 10mm forward.

[squirezook]

You do need to take into consideration the different rear springs. I understand that they should all be the same but there not. they do vary in measurement from rear eye to centre bolt. I had 3 sets of springs and chose the ones that the measurement was shorter. Didn't have to drill the rear hanger. Am very happy with the resulting setup.
I ended up using A and some leaves out of the old high lift fronts. Had them reset by the spring works up 75 mm $100 for the pair. He put 4 leaves in and I pulled out the short bottom one. Very comfy . Am now getting the sierra lean so might put the short one back in on the driver side.

[S13RR4]

Fatzook wrote:

if you don't re-drill the fixed hanger you diff will be 25-30mm forward. with 1/2 RUF ( when you re-drill the hanger) you will still be 10mm forward.

we're aiming to leave the diff as close to original position as possible, as we don't want to affect driveline components and/or shock absorbers.

Surely someone who has redrilled there spring hanger can help us out...

do we take measurements horizontally back or parrallel to the spring hanger (the blue line in choppy's picture)?

10mm movement should be acceptable.

[Fatzook]

S13RR4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

if you don't re-drill the fixed hanger you diff will be 25-30mm forward. with 1/2 RUF ( when you re-drill the hanger) you will still be 10mm forward.

we're aiming to leave the diff as close to original position as possible, as we don't want to affect driveline components and/or shock absorbers.

Surely someone who has redrilled there spring hanger can help us out...

do we take measurements horizontally back or parrallel to the spring hanger (the blue line in choppy's picture)?

10mm movement should be acceptable.

you won't even notice 10mm

[S13RR4]

Fatzook wrote:

S13RR4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

if you don't re-drill the fixed hanger you diff will be 25-30mm forward. with 1/2 RUF ( when you re-drill the hanger) you will still be 10mm forward.

we're aiming to leave the diff as close to original position as possible, as we don't want to affect driveline components and/or shock absorbers.

Surely someone who has redrilled there spring hanger can help us out...

do we take measurements horizontally back or parrallel to the spring hanger (the blue line in choppy's picture)?

10mm movement should be acceptable.

you won't even notice 10mm

ok cool thanks fat,

just gotta figure out now if when we are redrilling the hole, whether we need to drill the hole back wards along the horizontal (parallel to the ground) or backwards parallel to the blue line (spring hanger) in Choppy's picture,

cause if we go to high, the spring will foul on the chassis...

but if we go too far back, and too close to the edge it will weaken the spring hanger...

but if we dont go far enough back it will move the diff more...

just wanna be sure we're getting it in the right place

[Fatzook]

you have PM.

[Shansh]

S13RR4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

S13RR4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

if you don't re-drill the fixed hanger you diff will be 25-30mm forward. with 1/2 RUF ( when you re-drill the hanger) you will still be 10mm forward.

we're aiming to leave the diff as close to original position as possible, as we don't want to affect driveline components and/or shock absorbers.

Surely someone who has redrilled there spring hanger can help us out...

do we take measurements horizontally back or parrallel to the spring hanger (the blue line in choppy's picture)?

10mm movement should be acceptable.

you won't even notice 10mm

ok cool thanks fat,

just gotta figure out now if when we are redrilling the hole, whether we need to drill the hole back wards along the horizontal (parallel to the ground) or backwards parallel to the blue line (spring hanger) in Choppy's picture,

cause if we go to high, the spring will foul on the chassis...

but if we go too far back, and too close to the edge it will weaken the spring hanger...

but if we dont go far enough back it will move the diff more...

just wanna be sure we're getting it in the right place

x2

wanna eventually do a similar thing, without going to the extent of extending chassis, etc, just maybe redrill the hanger and extended shackles, mine is NT hopefully this wont make it too much of a pita, also wtf are caster wedges too????

[ajsr]

castor wedges are a wedge of tapered steel that sits between your diff mounts and spring to rotate the diff and alter your castor.
ie they are say 5mm one end and 1 mm the other.
if you get the castor right it makes a huge difference

[TUFY]

regarding castor, is it trial and error or is there a certain wedge size vs spring lift?

[ajsr]

it actually works on king pin angle.
you could do a 10 inch spoa with the correct castor by rotating the spring perches.
they usually come in sizes like 3 , 5, and 7 degree's
I think you would be better with too big a wedge than no wedge http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

[Red89]

ajsr wrote:

it actually works on king pin angle.
you could do a 10 inch spoa with the correct castor by rotating the spring perches.
they usually come in sizes like 3 , 5, and 7 degree's
I think you would be better with too big a wedge than no wedge http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Using your example of a big lifted spoa, too big a wedge and you are going to create problems with your pinion angle I would imagine. Which is why people with big spoa's tend to cut and rotate the knuckles as well as the perches.

[ajsr]

yep your pinion would need rotating as well, but the example was for castor sorry for not making that clear.