[unique_seek]

Hey guys...

I am selling my coily sierra(as soon as I fix the bonnet and windscreen) as we are planning on having kids in the future and want to be able to spend some time on it before we do!!...looking at the 5door vitara wagon...with the 1.6L G16B.....can anyone give me some advice/info/warnings on these cars or some alternatives......

I would be looking at using it for some mild to some HELLO action...

so talk away

[ODA1]

look at chops thread, he has done a good job on the Vit.

if you can stretch your budget an old GV will be fun and keep the family happy.

[matty_wall]

a few inches of lift, some 30inch rubber and a hammer.. then away you go!

[atari4x4]

This has come from outers, written by CJ

cj wrote:

OK, this topic comes up from time to time so I thought I might put something together that covers some model details and things to look for when buying a Vitara. This information has come from various sources including magazines, the internet and personal experience over time. Please feel free to add to this or provide corrections.

The Vitara came out here in '88 as a swb carburettored G16A 1.6 8v putting out 55kW @ 5400rpm and 123Nm @ 3000rpm with either a 5 speed manual or 3 speed auto (Trimatic) and was available as either a hardtop or softop. There were two main trim levels, JX being the base level and JLX the luxury version with power steering, power windows & power mirrors central locking and tilt steering wheel. Air conditioning was also available. The swb has a wheelbase of 2200mm. In late '94 the swb recieved an upgrade which gave it the G16B SOHC 1.6 16v EFI engine and the 4 speed auto (Aisin Warner) from the lwb. This engine produces 71kW @ 5600rpmand 133Nm @ 4000rpm. The lwb was released in '91 and was also offered in JX and JLX but all models got power steering. It has vented front discs and larger calipers compared to the swb and larger rear drums. This provides a brake upgrade option for swb Vits. It has a wheelbase of 2480mm. In '95 a widetrack lwb was releasd with a quad cam H20A 2.0 V6 engine developed jointly with Mazda. It put out 100kW @ 6500rpm and 172Nm @ 4000rpm. The chassis was widened 60mm and larger brakes and calipers were fitted along with 16" rims to clear them. In '97 a widetrack swb was released with a J20A DOHC 2.0 4cyl engine developing 97kW @ 5900rpm and 166Nm @ 4300rpm. The power and torque figures given for the engines may vary slightly over the years as smal changes were made by Suzuki.

Things to look for:

Check for damage underneath to things like crossmembers, sills and fuel tanks for signs of use offroad. Fuel tank depressions can be caused either by impact or the charcoal canister behind the headlight getting saturated through deep water crossings and not allowing the tank to breathe so it sucks itself in.

Check that the front manual hubs work. Vehicles that have not been used in 4wd can have the hubs corrode and will need replacing. This lack of use can also mean the front R & P may also be corroded as the top part will not have been immersed in oil regularly. It pays to lock the hubs once a month and go for a short drive. The other problem lack of use causes is the bearing surfaces get corrugated from the bearings impacting the same spot over time. When 4wd is finally used the bearings can't run smoothly and noise and carnage will follow.

Check the front wheel bearings as they can become loose over time.

Check that the strut top bolts are aligned evenly within the housing and haven't moved inboard. If they are not centred then it may have been doing some dune jumping or similar. The 2.0 models got strut braces to prevent this.

If the front A-arms have had decent impacts then the radiator could be tilted back towards the engine and the top hose may be kinked.

Look for signs of overheating. This could be due to clogged radiator passages. This can cause cylinder head failure. Look at the alloy as it will have changed colour or be powdery. Check inside the oil filler cap for signs of coolant mixing with the oil. Regular coolant changes are a positive and do not mix coolants.

The alloy front diff/axle housing should be checked for any signs of cracking. The best solution is to replace it with a steel housing from a manual V6 Grand Vitara or XL-7.

There have been some cases of engine blocks cracking. Check the welsh plugs for signs of coolant weeping, particularly under the starter motor.

The exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking but headers are available and give some more power.

Have a look inside the air filter box for signs of water as it may indicate water has got in the engine. Bad.

The power window switches and regulators can fail over time but are relatively easy to replace.

The handle on the rear door/tailgate can fail but is easy to fix.

Check for oil leaks. If it is coming from the distributor then it is likely to be a small o-ring that is a cheap and easy repair but other leaks may involve more expensive repairs.

Deformed bumpstops can be a sign of overloading or hard offroad use. This may mean that the axles, suspension etc have seen better days.

Some of the early G16B 16v heads had porous castings but these should all be fixed by now.

Make sure the cam belts have been replaced every 100,000km's. If you're not sure make it the first thing you do.

Do not be put of by the above as the Vitara is actually a pretty reliable little 4wd and with regular servicing the engines are good for at least 200-250,000km's before major work should need to be considered. Most of the things listed won't be found but on the offchance you now know what to look for and stay away from or adjust the price accordingly.

[buzbox]

The vitara is a bit more comfortable, and a good everydayer, mine is pretty reliable. I can always rely that it will snap a CV when you really really don't want it to.
But the same can be said about any IFS 4WD.

The only thing that I don't like about my Vitara, is that it's a little bit underpowered on the freeway, especially with 30" MT's. With almost 230,000km on the engine I'm sure a few horse's have escaped.

[Fatzook]

Not that I am a fan of the V6 vitaras, but I'd prefer a 2.0V6 vit wagon over the 1.6 vit wagon for the following reasons.

More power.

2.5L V6 swap is easy.

The diff gears are taller (4.6/4. so you still have the 5.12 R&P's available from other vits to correct gearing for bigger tyres.

The 1.6 wagon with 30's is a fuckin slug. You'll hate it. specially after your current ride.

[atari4x4]

with the 5.12:1 diff ratio's & 31's my 2.0l vit will cruise at 110kph & still have plenty left

[Bucket]

Fatzook wrote:

Not that I am a fan of the V6 vitaras, but I'd prefer a 2.0V6 vit wagon over the 1.6 vit wagon for the following reasons.

More power.

2.5L V6 swap is easy.

The diff gears are taller (4.6/4. so you still have the 5.12 R&P's available from other vits to correct gearing for bigger tyres.

The 1.6 wagon with 30's is a fuckin slug. You'll hate it. specially after your current ride.

I've definatly lost a bit of off the go power, but I can easily get to 140 in mine.

Whats the difference between swapping the v6 into a 2L compared to a 1.6? Just a bit curious on that one.

[Fatzook]

Bucket wrote:

Whats the difference between swapping the v6 into a 2L compared to a 1.6? Just a bit curious on that one.

The 2.0V6 has the right box, wiring, manifolds etc. Just swap the short block over ( and maybe a piggyback fuel computer??)

The 1.6 need fairly major mods.

Best you could do is find a J20 from a vit. Still a bit of work to fit it tho.

[Bucket]

Oh ok, that's cool. Thanks

[Joe]

Fatzook wrote:

Not that I am a fan of the V6 vitaras, but I'd prefer a 2.0V6 vit wagon over the 1.6 vit wagon for the following reasons.

More power.

2.5L V6 swap is easy.

The diff gears are taller (4.6/4. so you still have the 5.12 R&P's available from other vits to correct gearing for bigger tyres.

The 1.6 wagon with 30's is a fuckin slug. You'll hate it. specially after your current ride.

My old lwb went like a cut snake with 30s on i miss that car

If ya get one try to get an auto

[Westie]

I have 2 LWB Vitara's 1992 & 1994 for sale on the Sunshine Coast PM me if want more details.

[nissvit]

Fatzook wrote:

The 2.0V6 has the right box, wiring, manifolds etc. Just swap the short block over (and maybe a piggyback fuel computer??)

The 2.0 and the 2.5 seem to run the same injectors and ecu sensors, the AFM, idle air control valve and others appear to be the same in both vehicles as is the general layout of the wiring.

The actual pin-out config of the ecu differs but the key under-bonnet parameters are the same, ie same method to adjust timing/ check idle speed etc. Both run two o2 sensors.

The other difference to be aware of is that the gearboxes between the 2.0 vit & the 2.5 GV appear to be different boxes, with the GV having a significantly bigger case size and holding a fair bit more oil.

[unique_seek]

CHEERS GUYS!!!

Thanks heaps for all of that!!

Now with engine selection...the 1.6 with a hair drier goes quite nicely...so I have heard?!?!?I was thinking it would be fun to run something like a twin charge(sc14 supercharger with a bypass,and a turbo for towing up high...unnecessary but fun!) or else the 2LV6 with a little charger???I love engine mods...even though they aren't necessary with gears...but I want to tow with it too(nothing big just a small 14fter)

can you get t/case gears for the vit???

Also is there a solid axle swap for the front??

Cheers

[Fatzook]

nissvit wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

The 2.0V6 has the right box, wiring, manifolds etc. Just swap the short block over (and maybe a piggyback fuel computer??)

The 2.0 and the 2.5 seem to run the same injectors and ecu sensors, the AFM, idle air control valve and others appear to be the same in both vehicles as is the general layout of the wiring.

The actual pin-out config of the ecu differs but the key under-bonnet parameters are the same, ie same method to adjust timing/ check idle speed etc. Both run two o2 sensors.

The other difference to be aware of is that the gearboxes between the 2.0 vit & the 2.5 GV appear to be different boxes, with the GV having a significantly bigger case size and holding a fair bit more oil.

Yeah, but the 2.0L has the same width chassis as the 2.5L, so it should all swap across fairly easy.

[tombutt]

I looked right into the 2.5 for mine and props will when I'm on my opens basically use manifolds and crap off the 2l and away you go ie use the engine as a bare engine and add everything from the 2.5. Get the 2.5 abd supercharge it so I can copy ur manifolds and crap as that's on my very long list to do aswell

[atari4x4]

Polar_Bear's new LWB is a SV460 auto running a 2.5 from the GV...

I'm waiting on him to start a build down thread, cause all he's done is remove the lame alloy nudge bars & side steps.

[unique_seek]

2.5L upgrade legal in QLD?in the earlier 1.6L model?or only in the model with the v6?

[steak_knife]

atari4x4 wrote:

Polar_Bear's new LWB is a SV460 auto running a 2.5 from the GV...

I'm waiting on him to start a build down thread, cause all he's done is remove the lame alloy nudge bars & side steps.

Sv620 me think's Mr atari

[Zook_Fan]

steknig wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

Polar_Bear's new LWB is a SV460 auto running a 2.5 from the GV...

I'm waiting on him to start a build down thread, cause all he's done is remove the lame alloy nudge bars & side steps.

Sv620 me think's Mr atari

no steknig it is the new 4 cylinder 6 litre engine version

[atari4x4]

Zook_Fan wrote:

steknig wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

Polar_Bear's new LWB is a SV460 auto running a 2.5 from the GV...

I'm waiting on him to start a build down thread, cause all he's done is remove the lame alloy nudge bars & side steps.

Sv620 me think's Mr atari

no steknig it is the new 4 cylinder 6 litre engine version

maybe it's got 2 failing coil pack probes & it's sometimes a 4 cyl & other times it's a 6 cyl

[Fatzook]

unique_seek wrote:

2.5L upgrade legal in QLD?in the earlier 1.6L model?or only in the model with the v6?

2.5 into 1.6 would not be a straight pass. You would need an engineer to sign off on it.

2.5 into a 2.0 would be just over the limit (2.4L is a mod plate affair) so it would be borderline. Probably still need an engineer to sign off, but atleast it would be an easier swap.