[chris_mac]

G'day

I'm looking into doing a cover/skid plate for fuel tank

and a full skid plate, something like that http://www.rocky-road.com/skidplate.html or http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki/s ... plate.html

I know some of you have done fuel tank skid plate. Do you mount it on the same spots as the fuel tank is mounted, are they strong enough?

What do you think about thicknes of the plates, is 4mm strong enough? I guess 3mm would be not. What are your advice?
Cheers
Chris

[Fatzook]

For the belly skid plate I would say that 4mm or 5mm should be used.

As for the tank gaurd, 3mm is heaps aslong as you have sides welded in.





Pm me if you are interested

BTW, the mounts now line up with the original tank mounts, and yes that is plenty strong enough!

[lump_a_charcoal]

$?

[Fatzook]

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

$?

Looky here

[89_tintop]

good work fatzook... when funds permit i will be grabbing one of the fuel tanks gaurds

[bogfrog]

Fatzook wrote:

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

$?

Looky here

You have PM Fatzook

[Gwagensteve]

Lift the transfer to clean up the bottom of the rails before you bother with plating it - then the plate can be flat pan rather than all over the place.


[img][IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t218/Gwagensteve1/DSC00041.jpg[/img][/img]

That pan is 5mm thick. It's alloy (but a hard grade) and supported in the centre off of the gearbox crossmember as well as the sides.

Like anything, there's a big complicated way to do it and a quick way. In the end, you'll get the best performance out of the long complicated way.

I've done a plastic one with more support, but we've never run it on Greg's car. Doesn't seem to hang up enough to warrant the cleaning/service hassle.

here's a photo of the crossmember work we have done with Greg's to get the mounts all above chassis height.



That won't be the case with CJ's alloy plate - I run the same wheelbase and belly height and I drag the case plenty.

Steve.

[Fatzook]

Good tech steve

[chris_mac]

I wish I could lift t-case, I removed BL, and when SPOA conversion was done, they didn't cut the knuckles of the axle housing so right now there is rignt castor angle and good steering, but diff pumpkin point just a little up towards t-case making frontshaft angle big. so I'm affraid if right wheel would drop than frontshaft unis would bind. thats why I won't lift it.
t-case sits around 410-430mm above the ground anyway, I guess it's heaps.

Thanks for the advice and pictures. I could train my poor welding skils on that project so I could get some experience on something what is not critical from safety reasons like welding diffs, chasis, bumpers.

I will think about your fuel tank cover Fatzook. if funds allow will PM you.

Cheers
Chris

[lump_a_charcoal]

Hey Fatzook, how much for 2? PM me the answer...

[Fatzook]

lump_a_charcoal wrote:

Hey Fatzook, how much for 2? PM me the answer...

PM'd

[atari4x4]

thats a tech looking guard fatzook, i hope the SV420 ones are going to be just a trick?

[Fatzook]

atari4x4 wrote:

thats a tech looking guard fatzook, i hope the SV420 ones are going to be just a trick?

PM'd