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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:09 pm 
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hay guys ive just got complete wide track diffs front and back that i want to put in my narrow track sierra, can any one give me some advice on doing it, ive herd ive got to get the mounts ontop of the diffs moved in does anyone know anybody in brisbane that do it, cheers

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:48 pm 
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PM sent.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:42 pm 
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im also in the same vote here for the wt conversion any post wood be much helpful..

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:07 pm 
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make that three of us

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:29 pm 
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http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=3676

pretty good write up in there.

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:59 pm 
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make that four :o :D :lol:

I've read ' Bogfrogs WT Diff to NT Step by Step ' and am one of the many i'm sure that appreciate his effort, cheers.

I'm lacking knowledge for the part before the grinding and welding begins. Aside from a clean and paint, is there some recomended preventative maintenance before you get em under your NT ?

Basically what do you do between now and the start of Bogfrogs post ?

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Post Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:14 pm 
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I have made a jig that aligns the perches in the correct place for this conversion. If you are in brissy and don't mind paying a small fee of a 6 pack of bundy red you can borrow the jig. I only ask that you return it in a timely fashion as I use it to do this conversion for others from time to time.

PM me if you are interested.

Peter

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:39 am 
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oooo, you have a jig, a welder and after market perches ..... you should pick a saturday or sunday and line us up. We drive in, lay down $xx, half a dozen bundy red, and a pair of WT diffs, you wave your welding wand, we drive out with re-perched diffs to bolt up to our NT at home, :lol:

Maybe get an AZ sausage sizzle going, set up a stand, lay out your Zook wares, call it a TwinStick big day out and claim the expenses

:woohoo:

.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:44 am 
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lauby wrote:
oooo, you have a jig, a welder and after market perches ..... you should pick a saturday or sunday and line us up. We drive in, lay down $xx, half a dozen bundy red, and a pair of WT diffs, you wave your welding wand, we drive out with re-perched diffs to bolt up to our NT at home, :lol:

Maybe get an AZ sausage sizzle going, set up a stand, lay out your Zook wares, call it a TwinStick big day out and claim the expenses

:woohoo:

.


LOL :lol: :lol: :lol:

Wanna be my new accountant? :D

If you guys are happy to cut the perches off and clean up the axle tubes a bit, I'll fix you up with a set of perches, and for a 6pack I'll even glue them on :D

Can't be this weekend tho cos the misses is incapacitated, and as such very irritable. And no its not what you think :D She just had her tonsils out. :?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:46 am 
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lauby wrote:
oooo, you have a jig, a welder and after market perches ..... you should pick a saturday or sunday and line us up. We drive in, lay down $xx, half a dozen bundy red, and a pair of WT diffs, you wave your welding wand, we drive out with re-perched diffs to bolt up to our NT at home, :lol:

Maybe get an AZ sausage sizzle going, set up a stand, lay out your Zook wares, call it a TwinStick big day out and claim the expenses

:woohoo:

.


Come on Mr Fat!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:47 am 
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Who has got a ramp? :D

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:54 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
Who has got a ramp? :D


To jump em once your finished?? :? :?

1 jack(trolley)
4 stand's(axle)
1 Fat( Mr)

What could go wrong??? :P

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
I have made a jig that aligns the perches in the correct place for this conversion.


Pix of the jig?

Assume it holds the correct perch spacing and pinion angle? Will be doing this conversion myself when i can track down some WT diffs, so a jig would be handy.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:42 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:

If you guys are happy to cut the perches off and clean up the axle tubes a bit, I'll fix you up with a set of perches, and for a 6pack I'll even glue them on



I'm fishing the next two week ends, after that i may just follow you up on that offer Armsup cheers.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:37 pm 
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rick1970 wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
I have made a jig that aligns the perches in the correct place for this conversion.


Pix of the jig?

Assume it holds the correct perch spacing and pinion angle? Will be doing this conversion myself when i can track down some WT diffs, so a jig would be handy.


Yeah I don't have any. I'll get some this arvo if I remember.

Yes it positions the diff, and holds the perches in the correct place, aswell as the pinion angle. Pinion angle is also adjustable. Its a very simple jig. :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:26 am 
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sorry to ask, but as you guys re talking here bout the topic hehehe

whts the diference between NT and WT???.... I thought the sierras were all the same
:P

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:48 am 
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BertZook wrote:
sorry to ask, but as you guys re talking here bout the topic hehehe

whts the diference between NT and WT???.... I thought the sierras were all the same
:P


there are a few differences. The main one is the width of the axles, and spring spacings.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 6:56 am 
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Suzuki Sierras were designed to fit into the Japanese "Kei" Class of light car. This class of car has size restrictions - 1.4m wide and 3.2m long at the time the Sierra was designed. (It's grown a little since then)

As such, sierras were designed with quite narrow track width and 16X4.5" wheels to fit into the Kei size restrictions. (which also mandate a 660cc engine)

Early sierras were sold on the worldwide market and the 1.0 litre, and later 1.3 litre models were intended for the world market.

However, as cheap soft top cars they were often bought for and by young, inexperienced drivers, who had a nasty habit of tipping them over.

Suzuki responded by adding track width (often thought of as 100mm, but actually about 85mm) with wider axles, fitting lower profile tyres, and increasing spring spacing to increase roll stiffness, lower the centre of gravity, and therefore improve stability.

The wide track model was released in early 1988 (from memory) It's easy to spot - it has wide, body coloured flares, and the dashboard has a rectangular instrument binnacle and dash vents instead of the round binnacle and round dash vents of the narrow track model.

Unfortunately, the wide track model wasn't enough for Consumer Union in the US, a consumer advocate group who decided that small, SWB 4WD's were unsafe. they kept up pressure on suzuki in the US to stop selling the sierra through the use of highly dubious "testing" to prove they were unstable. This led to the ultimate withdrawal of the sierra from the US market by 1991.

The same fate befell the CJ Jeep - narrow tracked and relatively softly sprung, it was replaced in 1987 by the YJ - lower, wider, stiffer, and fitted with panhard rods and heavy swaybars to aid stability.

Here's a NT Sierra, (in this case, a 1.0) with the 15X5.5" wheels and small plastic flares fitted to "large engined" models that didn't have to meet kei class rules.

Image

And here's a japanese Kei class sierra. Note, no flares at all.

Image


And here's a wide track

Image

Out of interest, both versions are available in Japan - a 1.3 litre wide track model and the 660cc narrow track "Kei" version.

Here's a 660cc coil sprung "kei" sierra: not a great photo, but you get the idea- Very skinny 16" wheels and no flares.
Image

Steve.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:18 am 
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more info on WT/Nt here bertzook...
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ght=spring

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 7:42 am 
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:D wooow thnks... I have that doubt from along time. I thought it might be a wider axle but didnt know if it was something else... thnks :P

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:12 am 
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Fatzook wrote:

If you guys are happy to cut the perches off and clean up the axle tubes a bit, I'll fix you up with a set of perches, and for a 6pack I'll even glue them on :D





Preparing WT diffs for the glueing of new perches. I'm making a start - am i on the right track ?

Rear Diff;
I'm going too grind off all brackets related to the hand brake, as my car has the hand brake on the transfer.
I'm going to grind / cut both current purches off and clean up the area 50mm iniside ready for the glueing of new perchaes.

couple of Q's - what about the ridges to the top of the diff which align with the origanal perch's, do they have to be ground off as well ?

Confirming I will remove all the currently attached hard brake lines, Is it okay to leave the axles / drum brakes in place during the welding or do i have to gut it ? If yes, i gather it's recomended to replace bearings in the process.

thanks for comments

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:37 am 
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BertZook wrote:
:D wooow thnks... I have that doubt from along time. I thought it might be a wider axle but didnt know if it was something else... thnks :P


Jimnys are also WT/NT 660cc in japan

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 5:53 am 
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lauby wrote:


Preparing WT diffs for the glueing of new perches. I'm making a start - am i on the right track ?

Rear Diff;
I'm going too grind off all brackets related to the hand brake, as my car has the hand brake on the transfer.
I'm going to grind / cut both current purches off and clean up the area 50mm iniside ready for the glueing of new perchaes.

couple of Q's - what about the ridges to the top of the diff which align with the origanal perch's, do they have to be ground off as well ?

Yes but they come off very easily.

Confirming I will remove all the currently attached hard brake lines, Is it okay to leave the axles / drum brakes in place during the welding or do i have to gut it ? If yes, i gather it's recomended to replace bearings in the process.

Yes, you should drain the oil, and remove the axles. Leave the centre in place. The bearings CAN be replaced, but its not necessary if yours are ok. I recommend fitting new seals to the housong though, as they are usually stuffed, and the heat from welding can finish them off.
thanks for comments


So what you want is a bare housing with the centre still fitted. :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 6:28 pm 
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So is that link at the start of this thread somewhere else on this new AZ????

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 10:33 pm 
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The link to bogfrogs WT dif conversion with pics is down this page here:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3676&start=20

That's about the only useful link i could see? :)

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