[birko]

Hey,
Just got a few things to finish up on my baleno conversion. Just after some pics/ideas on what ppl have done with running a water pipe over the exhaust mainfold etc and with what hoses etc. Ive currently got a early swift thermostat with a standard bottom 1.3 hose which curves up from the thermostat (soory no pics as my internet is back to dialup speeds till next month ).I was thinking of running a 30mm aluminum pipe but id need to pay someone to do this, Anyone used steel or copper (as i can work with this) ?

[MrRocky]

not finished yet

[Fatzook]

birko wrote:

Anyone used steel or copper (as i can work with this) ?

Copper would work fine, but it looks like shit. If you can get your hands on some chromed copper though.....

Can you swage the end of the pipe to give the lip to help retain the hose?

[jonno_racing]

Fatzook wrote:

Can you swage the end of the pipe to give the lip to help retain the hose?

is this realy required?

my top hose on my gti motor is straight up 316 stanless tube, no lip etc and i have never had a issue with hoses poping off etc..

[Fatzook]

No. If you use a good quality hose clamp it will be fine. But copper is soft and can crush. Stainless would be good.

[birko]

Any pics?

[BlueSuzy]

Fully custom thermostat holder. Hose bend to straight gal pipe, no flanges/ridges, then hose bend to modified civic radiator.




This one is using the stock radiator, stock front hose.



And closer pic of housing

[birko]

Looks neat bluesuzy. Mine is a fair bit tighter at the back and needed a bit of extra clearance (gimpy modified) at the firewall. How thick is the gal pipe? Im thinking as my first prototype ill use some steam pipe bend and gal. pipe.

[Zachius]

Has anyone though of remotely mounting the thermostat? Ie just having a hose outlet at the back of the head -> rubber hose -> thermostat housing -> rubber hose -> radiator?

Seems to me this would be a good way to solve clearance/accessibility issues.

[birko]

ok, so ive finished my first attempt at my wtare pipe I used gal pipe and steam pipe bends, with a early swift themostat housing, hammered firewall, standard bottom 1.3 hose from thermostat to pipe to standard top 1.3 hose. Just goin to run a bead around the ends to help with sealing and another support bracket after i finish my extractors. will post pics when im of reduced speed internet


From the looks of those pics you ran a engine fan? is this the sierra one on the baleno water pump? I thought these water pumps didnt run fans as they are weaker then the vitara one witha shorter shaft etc.

[birko]

The back hose is touching the firewall just (or will on engine flex). In order to get this thermostat housing to fit 100% ideally it should be 45'd facing inwards and there would be no rubbage making it perfect for this conversion. Ill get this done after its all running

[BlueSuzy]

Running stock engine fan. Stock everything else. Bal water pump is same-same to other g motors.

Why is your thermostat hitting the firewall? Are you using the Bal thermostat holder with swifty outlet?

Everything else sounds good. Bead of weld is a good idea. I will do that when my motor changes cars!

[fordem]

Zachius wrote:

Has anyone though of remotely mounting the thermostat? Ie just having a hose outlet at the back of the head -> rubber hose -> thermostat housing -> rubber hose -> radiator?

Seems to me this would be a good way to solve clearance/accessibility issues.

Ideally you want the thermostat as close to the head as possible - if not you'll need to devise some sort of a bypass to ensure water circulates in a loop that includes the thermostat - if you don't the thermostat will never open, because the water around it never heats up.

Take a look at a Grand Vitara with either the J20A or the H25A engine - the outlet is on the back of the head(s) and the thermostat at the front of the engine - there is a bypass from the cylinder head outlet, through the heater core to the thermostat housing - if the bypass clogs the thermostat never opens and the engine overheats.

I'v attached a pdf from the FSM so that you can see how it works - please note in both cases the thermostat is in the return from the radiator, this is not a requirement - it could go in the output to the radiator, but you MUST have that flow of hot water onto the wax pellet for the thermostat to open.

[birko]

Quote:

Running stock engine fan. Stock everything else. Bal water pump is same-same to other g motors.

Why is your thermostat hitting the firewall? Are you using the Bal thermostat holder with swifty outlet?

Everything else sounds good. Bead of weld is a good idea. I will do that when my motor changes cars!

Im pretty sure baleno water pump is shorter as the vitara water pump has a deeper dished pulley if you know what i mean but if yours had no probs i might run engine fan til i can get my thermo setup to fit.

My thermostat is the baleno straight bit (with sensor plug) Then a swift holder. It hits the standard firewall when the motor is fitted with a bent kit. With a bit of hammering it fits but the hose will rub on engine flex. Its mainly that fold at the rear that it hits which needs hammering down.

[BlueSuzy]

So when you need to change the thermostat, the engine needs to come out.. Sounds.. great..

I have had no cooling problems with the sierra fan other than when it hit water/mud and shattered.

I have a vit viscous fan to go on when it swaps cars soon. then more testing..

[ODA1]

stating to get over my head but i have a baleno conversion in my vit and i have had a friend study it for his vit and he has commented on how good it has been done.

i can take pics of anything that people need

tim

[birko]

Quote:

So when you need to change the thermostat, the engine needs to come out.. Sounds.. great..

Nope dont need to, its tight but a racheting spanner and itll come out easy. Will post up pics of conversion when i get net back!

[jonfromhamilton]

What about the rear hose hitting the bell housing?

[Teracis]

I've got two flanges lasercut identical to the thermostat housing gasket. Plan is to make a 90 degree bend or whatever I decide fits best and re mount the thermostat housing, I think I got the idea from either gwagen Steve or tanshi, one of the gurus anyway, I will link it when I get home. It's not going to move far.

EDIT: I was right, it was Gwagensteve, as below!

Gwagensteve wrote:

CairnsZook wrote:

Don't worry, I found a thermostat housing of a carby G13 Swift engine. It fits perfectly

But will it clear the firewall?



This is a baleno motor, stock P/S engine mount, 2" BL. The thermostat is hard on the firewall. There's no room for a housing.

We decided to turn the factory thermostat housing around- we couldn't see it working any other way.



Bear in mind, to get to those bolts once in the car, I have a 3/8" ratchet with a a 90 degree offset head. Without it, those bolts that attach the bend to the head CANNOT be undone.

Steve.

[jonfromhamilton]

I meant the one that runs directly out the back of the water pump.
I ended up cutting mine off with my favorite grinder disc.
I'm going to get a 180 degree bend one and going straight back to the front of the engine bay.
I am re-using the baleno radiator so want to line up the hoses as best I can with the inlet and outlet on the radiator.

[Jameszook]

use sierre 1

[Ratty562]

This is my g16b used a swft thermostat pretty sure