[Che]

I'm spewing... i've stayed up all night friday stripping my car down to get primer into the hidden spots, but it's been drizzling all weekend and all the primer i've applied is a much lighter bottle green than the other panels i've primed previously...

i've kept it dry as I can spraying in my shed, drying panels with towels after sanding with wet/dry sandpaper, waited an hour before cleaning again with kero and a tack cloth, and a little while later have applied the primer. It's stuck to the car without a hitch, but the colour has me concerned.


How do you tell if the primer good to go, or if it needs to be reapplied?


Painting's all new to me but I want to get the best prep job I can on the car before I put the top coat on.

[Che]

oh btw - i've been using spray can primer if that makes a difference. killrust heavy duty brand

[steak_knife]

Couldn't of this gone into one of your other thread's about painting??

[atari4x4]

no i must post a new thread for EVERY question

[eldo]

dude why are you cleaning it with kero??? it will leave a residue!!! primer is also porus and will absorb moisture!! scuff it back and do another coat when its warmer

[royce]

doesnt matter, I dont think he has replied to any thread he has started has he?

the primer wont stick, this weekend could only be worse for painting if it had been snowing and you dont put kero on something you want to paint on

either give up and understand you have destroyed any value on your car or take it to a paint shop

A wise man once said, a little knowledge is dangerous

[Che]

says to use kero on the instructions on the can.

[Che]

steknig wrote:

Couldn't of this gone into one of your other thread's about painting??

Sorry didn't bother checking. Thought the post would've been dead and buried by now

[steak_knife]

che_guitarra wrote:

steknig wrote:

Couldn't of this gone into one of your other thread's about painting??

Sorry didn't bother checking. Thought the post would've been dead and buried by now

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13773

people have been replying to it.

[Che]

My bad...


also - it's turps i'm using (and the instructions on the can), not kero - my bad again. too many fumes in here

[eldo]

Kill rust is probably not the best product for automotive use either, try a dedicated automotive paint. Aren't you usig that protec stuff to paint your car? If so why are you using rustkill primer? It's for gates and guttering etc

[ajsr]

x2 who told you to use killrust primer?
you really need and auto product

[Che]

ha ha. i love finding out stuff like that after i've wasted two weekends prepping my car! no wonder i've used so many cans to get the job done.

protec is going over the top, just want to get a good prep base down first. original paint was pretty sketchy, just putting in a bit of effort so the top coat will look A1

[ajsr]

look mate the two (protec and killrust primer) may be compatible I dont know and I was in the trade for years.
I wouldnt worry too much about the color difference of the primer as there could be lots of reasons such as temperature different batches of paint and maybe you didnt mix the paint in the can properly. your painting over it so the color doesnt matter.
you should never clean your car with kero, use PREPSOL thats what its for.
the olny thing you can do from here is let the primer dry properly, give a small panel a sand with 800 wet clean it off and try some top coat paint on it and see what happens.
if it all truns to shit your going to have to rub all the killrust off.
I wouldnt sand or try to top coat for at least a week as enamels dont like the surface to be broken and recoated to early, or they fry up(go wrinkly).
good luck

[shakes]

skimp on the prep, like your doing and the final WONT be "A1"

So not using compatable primer/wax and grease remover/topcoat is just wasting your time.

[atari4x4]

eldo wrote:

Kill rust is probably not the best product for automotive use either, try a dedicated automotive paint. Aren't you usig that protec stuff to paint your car? If so why are you using rustkill primer? It's for gates and guttering etc

[Che]

hmmm... i used killrust primer coz i saw it in supacheap and assumed it was good for use on cars. it says on the can to use on steel surfaces, zooks are made of steel so i thought it was good to go. now i know by 'steel' it means structural steel and not auto steel... not that i understand the difference between the two. i though primer was primer. why the heck would supacheap be selling structural primer anyway??


says nothing on the can what sort of primer it is (acrylic, enamel, 2 pack... etc - like i said i thought primer was primer), so i'll try what you said asjr and get a protec spray can and try it on a section. i honestly thought that the protec paint would permeate the primer and bond it all into one thick protective layer.... but i know nothing about paint, that why all the questions.



i got one more Q if anyone can answer it - considering the exact same paint (protec #342-1166 in my case), why is a compressor/spray gun job superior to what you can get out of a spray can? shouldn't the same brand/type of paint give same results regardless??

[buzbox]

che_guitarra wrote:

why the heck would supacheap be selling structural primer anyway??

i got one more Q if anyone can answer it - considering the exact same paint (protec #342-1166 in my case), why is a compressor/spray gun job superior to what you can get out of a spray can? shouldn't the same brand/type of paint give same results regardless??

Firstly, they keep a large range to keep everyone happy, They do get people wanting paint to paint their gate and other items. Not just cars. It's up to you, the consumer to know what you want/need.

And second, Does a spray can have more pressure than a compressor? I don't think so. As the contents become less, they're will be less pressure inside the can which may result in an un-even spray. Depending ont he size of it, An air compressor will have the same pressure through out spraying. One tip I use to give is put the spray can under hot water to build the pressure up inside the can.

And Thirdly, It's only common sense not to spray in high humidity weather. Unless your in a spray booth where the environment is controlled.

[Che]

i know nothing about painting cars, zip, so it's hard to have common sense about what to do. you can only learn as you go. tried to find out as much as possible, but rather than getting straight answers, you tend to get a lot of waffling on on forums... ask my mates and everyone's an expert... tell a paint shop and they seem to try selling you the exact opposite of what you're after, and tell you nothing... it's hard to win.

but, i'll get there. my shitbox will look good in the end. just might take 10 attempts and 1000 spray cans

[BlueSuzy]

che_guitarra wrote:

waffling

Everypost i have seen of you on here has been exactly that.

[buzbox]

Ahhh the good 'ol shoot first, ask questions later trick.

I once had no idea on how to paint and I wish I had forums or the internet for that matter to ask these types of question.

Did you go down to your local panel shop and ask questions? did you go to your local library to read specific books on the topic? Did you at least do the laziest thing possible for info and Youtube it? consider yourself lucky that people on here are TELLING you what to do. Whether you listen, Is a different thing.

Yeah it'll take you long enough to get it done, but cost you alot more effort and money.

A wise man once said, No matter what you think about doing, chances are someone has done it before. You should ask and learn from their mistakes.

BTW it won't look very good if you use spray cans.

[ajsr]

there are several reasons that spray cans cant cut it comared to a spray gun.
1 look at the nossel on a can compared to a gun its a tiny piece of mass produced plastic. you cant expect it to be able supply a similar quality spray pattern
2 buz box is right you only have a certain amount of pressure in a can and it varies as the can volume lessens changeing your spray pattern and volume
3 If you look at the nozzle on the can its tiny and this means the paint must be ultra thin to pass through it.I think far too thin to really be affective. and your paying for all that thinner.
4 very expensive for the volume of paint you really get.
if the average can is say 500ml of mixed paint , your probably only getting 200ml of unmixed paint if that for your $

Ive seen some reasonable spray can jobs over the years,but thtey are only reasonable until your 4-5 feet from the car. choice is yours,and im being kind when I say reasonable can jobs.

[Che]

Buzbox, yeah, definitely tried looking up as much stuff as possible, youtube vids, different forums, downloaded .pdfs, even bought a magazine from the states... everything I can find is more to do with technique than the products used in the process. It'll tell you to use primer, but not what brand of primer, or why you need to use primer A instead of primer B or C...

Went to Protec in Geebung, but the saleman couldn't tell we what spec spraying gear i'll need to apply, or what base to put it on. I ended finding these details on a random forum into military vehicle restos. Thes sales guy did say protec can be sprayed on a wet car and needs no base - i dunno if i'm coming or going - this is the exact opposite of what i've picked up so far


Still, definitely gonna use a spray gun compressor on the top coat (set aside a whole weekend and strip the car down, panels windows and all), but was hoping to sort the panel prep in dribs and drabs when i get the time (that's why using spray cans at this stage) to get it good for the final splash.

[zukiduki]

I used this primer too on a couple of panels, but my car is a banger and this primer was just sitting in dads shed. the color is growse, but u gotta topcoat it with something or the water won't bead off if it rains, it soaks into the paint and where i live it turn primer moldy after a week. Paint is a pain in the bum, im using my Sierra to learn how to do bodywork too. I wanted to do a rattle can job, but too many people scared me off. I reckon even on a Sierra u'll use 20 - 30 rattle cans to get a basic primer and topcoat job. costs the same to hire stuff and buy better paint and looks better in the end.

[Che]

Cheer Zukiduki, good to know. I reckon to do a decent job you'd need 30 rattle cans minimum for the priming alone. I went through 12 cans and only got 1/2 way through a decent priming job - if my car was a gate or a gutter i'd be proud It stood up to the wet week, but like you said, you can really see it soaking into the paint rather than beading off - that can't be good.

Another thing with rattle cans - I couldn't believe how little of the paint coming out of the can actually sticks to the car - 80% just floats away. Now I see why decent pressure is so important - with a compressor the paint will hit the panel with force rather than slowly drift toward it via gravity. Less wastage and a better fill... lesson learnt.


Oh well, since i've totally arsed this up - what's the fastest/best/least damaging/most DIY friendly way of stripping paint off?


I saw some paint removal discs at bunnings that looked like hard black sponge - they'd be perfect considering the tools I got at home. Just wondering if they last long or if i'd go through a bundle of them trying to strip a car, or if they're suitable for stripping cars at all?


Also I need a compressor capable of 300 - 400 PSI for my Protec paint. Does anyone know what this is in litres per minute or CFM? I've tried to find an online conversion calculator to suss this out but no luck.

[foolsp33d]

one of them spare parts stores( I cant recall which) had a compressor and 3 spray guns for $250. thought that was a bargain deal. cant remember if it included an airline..

[Ben_Sierra]

che_guitarra wrote:

Cheer Zukiduki, good to know. I reckon to do a decent job you'd need 30 rattle cans minimum for the priming alone. I went through 12 cans and only got 1/2 way through a decent priming job - if my car was a gate or a gutter i'd be proud It stood up to the wet week, but like you said, you can really see it soaking into the paint rather than beading off - that can't be good.

Another thing with rattle cans - I couldn't believe how little of the paint coming out of the can actually sticks to the car - 80% just floats away. Now I see why decent pressure is so important - with a compressor the paint will hit the panel with force rather than slowly drift toward it via gravity. Less wastage and a better fill... lesson learnt.


Oh well, since i've totally arsed this up - what's the fastest/best/least damaging/most DIY friendly way of stripping paint off?


I saw some paint removal discs at bunnings that looked like hard black sponge - they'd be perfect considering the tools I got at home. Just wondering if they last long or if i'd go through a bundle of them trying to strip a car, or if they're suitable for stripping cars at all?


Also I need a compressor capable of 300 - 400 PSI for my Protec paint. Does anyone know what this is in litres per minute or CFM? I've tried to find an online conversion calculator to suss this out but no luck.

There is no direct link between pressure and flow. It depends on a number of factors...

[ball]

che_guitarra wrote:

Cheer Zukiduki, good to know. I reckon to do a decent job you'd need 30 rattle cans minimum for the priming alone. I went through 12 cans and only got 1/2 way through a decent priming job - if my car was a gate or a gutter i'd be proud It stood up to the wet week, but like you said, you can really see it soaking into the paint rather than beading off - that can't be good.

Another thing with rattle cans - I couldn't believe how little of the paint coming out of the can actually sticks to the car - 80% just floats away. Now I see why decent pressure is so important - with a compressor the paint will hit the panel with force rather than slowly drift toward it via gravity. Less wastage and a better fill... lesson learnt.


Oh well, since i've totally arsed this up - what's the fastest/best/least damaging/most DIY friendly way of stripping paint off?


I saw some paint removal discs at bunnings that looked like hard black sponge - they'd be perfect considering the tools I got at home. Just wondering if they last long or if i'd go through a bundle of them trying to strip a car, or if they're suitable for stripping cars at all?


Also I need a compressor capable of 300 - 400 PSI for my Protec paint. Does anyone know what this is in litres per minute or CFM? I've tried to find an online conversion calculator to suss this out but no luck.

Most compressors only go to 150psi or so.

You won't be needing anything near 300 psi to squirt a bit of paint out of a spray gun.

You have 1 too may zeros on the psi you think you need.

[Che]

Interesting - I confirmed that twice with the Protec rep in Geebung just this week as I couldn't find a PSI rating on my compressor at home. Told him I have a compressor that can punch out 167L p/m of air, he wasn't too sure what that translated to, but that I needed 300 - 400 PSI.

Called Kennards and Bunnings for a hire quote, but they had no info on PSI ratings of their compressors either

[Ben_Sierra]

300-400 KPa maybe, but 300 psi is a lot of pressure!