[atari4x4]

300-400psi... are you planning to embed the paint into the panels?


the working pressures of most spray guns is 2-4 bar or 30-60 psi

[ajsr]

depending on the type of spray gun you will only be painting between 25 and 45 psi.
the pressure is less important than volume of air your compessor can supply. Ideally you want about 12 cfm consant supply be you really need a 18 cfm + compressor for that.
any compressor over 10 cfm will be able to supply a reasonable amount of air for a nice job you may just have to go a little slower and let it catch up.

the best way to remove the paint off your car is to wet rub it off with something like 320wet.put a little dishwashing liquid in the water it stops the paper clogging up too badly.
do not use a power disk of any sort unless you are planning on totaly stripping the car back to bare metal, you will regret it..
and obital and 400 dry may work ok by will probably cog the paper on fresh enamel primer.

[Che]

Boy oh boy, I think this paint rep needs to be retrained.

So far he's told me:

(1) Protec Paint #342 will permanently stick to anything. Well, it will - as long as by 'anything' you mean zinc phosphate primer with an alkyd resin base.

(2) You can paint your car on a rainy day if you like. I can do that too, as long as my car is dry and in the shed at the time.

(3) A 300 - 400 PSI setup is needed. Sorry buddy, wrong unit of measurement for me to even make sense of.



AJSR, if I can get away with it i'll take it back to the original paint rather than back to the birthday suit, although there are parts i've sanded that are back to bare metal (mainly around the contours). Will this matter?

Another concern I have is that the stop putty and bog is 'over' the killrust primer in places - does all the filler have to come off to start again too?

[Che]

Whats the red layer under the original primer too?

[ajsr]

the metal bits really want a couple of coats of acrylic primer applied.thinned 50 50 %
you dont need to prime old paint if its in reasonable knick ie not cracked, but it must be sanded to a flat matt finish. 600 wet or 400 dry paper.
if you prime the metal spots you should sand the primer with the above grades a day or two later . or if you only lightly prime you can sand in a couple of hours and topcoat.
try to feather out the edges between the old paint and metal so the difference doesnot show.
ask the dude at the paint joint for the tech sheet for that paint and read and follow it

[ball]

che_guitarra wrote:

Boy oh boy, I think this paint rep needs to be retrained.

So far he's told me:

(1) Protec Paint #342 will permanently stick to anything. Well, it will - as long as by 'anything' you mean zinc phosphate primer with an alkyd resin base.

(2) You can paint your car on a rainy day if you like. I can do that too, as long as my car is dry and in the shed at the time.

(3) A 300 - 400 PSI setup is needed. Sorry buddy, wrong unit of measurement for me to even make sense of.



AJSR, if I can get away with it i'll take it back to the original paint rather than back to the birthday suit, although there are parts i've sanded that are back to bare metal (mainly around the contours). Will this matter?

Another concern I have is that the stop putty and bog is 'over' the killrust primer in places - does all the filler have to come off to start again too?

Not really, he did his job and got your money.

He doesn't care what your job turns out like as long as you have paid for the stuff he sold you.

What happens is they will just say your not a professional that is why the job turned out wrong.

[Che]

I've tried all the wet sandpaper grits from 120, 240, 360, 800 - will have to try with a drop of dishwashing liquid like you say. The finish comes up magic using the 800 grit paper, i'll never use lesser for car prep again. It's just brilliant for getting surfaces dead level.

[Che]

ball wrote:

Not really, he did his job and got your money.

He doesn't care what your job turns out like as long as you have paid for the stuff he sold you.

What happens is they will just say your not a professional that is why the job turned out wrong.

As Royce quoted earlier, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.


Takes more than a week to learn about paint, just realising that now

[ajsr]

yep thats why spray painter is a 4 year apprenticeship.

[Che]

How much you reckon to uninstall/reinstall the front and rear glass?

[ajsr]

you dont need to remove the glass if you dont want.
you can lift the rubber edge with a screw driver etc and put something like a thick electrical wire whippersnip cord etc about 3-5 mm back from the rubber edge.it holds the rubber up and lets the paint underneath.
it will allow paint under the area coved by the rubber, when you remove the wire there is no evidence it was ever there and no paint edges or missed spots along the rubbers.
its fiddly go practice before you paint

[steak_knife]

ajsr wrote:

you dont need to remove the glass if you dont want.
you can lift the rubber edge with a screw driver etc and put something like a thick electrical wire whippersnip cord etc about 3-5 mm back from the rubber edge.it holds the rubber up and lets the paint underneath.
it will allow paint under the area coved by the rubber, when you remove the wire there is no evidence it was ever there and no paint edges or missed spots along the rubbers.
its fiddly go practice before you paint

Nice!!