[unique_seek]

Ok after I bent the front panhards rod on my coily at cruiser park,I have spoke to the boss and I can make up some custom ones at work.

I need to know if anyone has done this,and what size they used?I have seed H/D patrol rod that are made from solid bar,but is that necessary on a coily?

Also does it need any bends to clear the diff?(from what I can see the rear diff will need a bend to clear the handbrake cable setup)

Lastly is it worth making it adjustable(if so what would you guys recommend)
I currently only have a 50mm lift,but may be putting in some spring spacers or upgrade the springs altogether.

Ah yeah an I want to upgrade the panhard mounts on the diff housing and chassis,and the shockies mount to(they are made out of a tin can! )

I will do a write up when I do this too(in the next week or so... )

[ZookiMonsta]

Probably easier to go buy a Tough Dog Jimny adjustable panhard rod and
shorten it slightly.

[Ridge]

How did you bend it?

May not be worth the effort to make a solid one, if its the first time its happened.

I would straighten it (if you can) and sleeve it with some thick wall pipe.

[unique_seek]

Ridge wrote:

How did you bend it?

May not be worth the effort to make a solid one, if its the first time its happened.

I would straighten it (if you can) and sleeve it with some thick wall pipe.

Slid down a rock very gently,and then bang!I have straightened it,but if I was to sleeve it with thick wall pipe it would be too large...

I have the time and facilities to make it so that what I want to do...

[just_cruizin]

Solid bar offers very little strength in comparasion to tube, at considerable weight increase. You are better off going slightly larger tube with a decent wall thickness to prevent dents. Could weld some angle under the tube to provide a bit of dent resistance.

[unique_seek]

so thick wall is the go?

[Fatzook]

unique_seek wrote:

so thick wall is the go?

just get some 1.5" chromolly with 3mm wall, and use Heim joints with weld in tube nuts. This will be WAY stronger than OEM and will eliminate some of the 'shake' issues that the rubber panhard bushes cause in the front end.

[Gwagensteve]

I wouldn't be using heims on a road driven car. (For legal and practical reasons)

Welding angle onto tube to strengthen it isn't sound IMHO. It works, but transfers significant stress into the HAZ on the tube. Again, might be fine on a on offroad only car, but I wouldn't use it on a road car.

I've bent the draglinks on both my Gwagen and my sierra.

Both have been loose sleeved with heavier tube. On the G it could just be slid over. On the sierra, I had to split the tube lengthways and weld it back up.

Neither sleeve is welded to the original tube.

I agree solid bar does not offer strength benefits.

I also a agree heavy wall tube as per Fatzooks suggestion (except for the heims) although it doesn't sound like 1.5" would clear?

[unique_seek]

Fatzook wrote:

unique_seek wrote:

so thick wall is the go?

just get some 1.5" chromolly with 3mm wall, and use Heim joints with weld in tube nuts. This will be WAY stronger than OEM and will eliminate some of the 'shake' issues that the rubber panhard bushes cause in the front end.

Finally someone with some good advice?where is the best place to buy chromolly and heim joints...also what is required to weld chromolly?I have never done that before...

[Fatzook]

unique_seek wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

unique_seek wrote:

so thick wall is the go?

just get some 1.5" chromolly with 3mm wall, and use Heim joints with weld in tube nuts. This will be WAY stronger than OEM and will eliminate some of the 'shake' issues that the rubber panhard bushes cause in the front end.

Finally someone with some good advice?where is the best place to buy chromolly and heim joints...also what is required to weld chromolly?I have never done that before...

Dunno bout good advise. We'll just call it advise hey

Molly from here.

You may need to fabricate a new lower mount so that it sits a little bit further out from the housing to clear the pumpkin. Atleast if you use molly heims, they will be strong enough for the application. And technically NO aftermarket panhards are legal unless they are engineered/ tested etc as per relevent codes. So even if a moly panhard with moly heims IS illegal, atleast its up to the task at hand.

[unique_seek]

Fatzook wrote:

unique_seek wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

unique_seek wrote:

so thick wall is the go?

just get some 1.5" chromolly with 3mm wall, and use Heim joints with weld in tube nuts. This will be WAY stronger than OEM and will eliminate some of the 'shake' issues that the rubber panhard bushes cause in the front end.

Finally someone with some good advice?where is the best place to buy chromolly and heim joints...also what is required to weld chromolly?I have never done that before...

Dunno bout good advise. We'll just call it advise hey

Molly from here.

You may need to fabricate a new lower mount so that it sits a little bit further out from the housing to clear the pumpkin. Atleast if you use molly heims, they will be strong enough for the application. And technically NO aftermarket panhards are legal unless they are engineered/ tested etc as per relevent codes. So even if a moly panhard with moly heims IS illegal, atleast its up to the task at hand.

Haha yeah cheers for that,whats the best way to make it adjustable?I plan on reinforcing the chassis mount and the diff mount too...

[Fatzook]

unique_seek wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

unique_seek wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

unique_seek wrote:

so thick wall is the go?

just get some 1.5" chromolly with 3mm wall, and use Heim joints with weld in tube nuts. This will be WAY stronger than OEM and will eliminate some of the 'shake' issues that the rubber panhard bushes cause in the front end.

Finally someone with some good advice?where is the best place to buy chromolly and heim joints...also what is required to weld chromolly?I have never done that before...

Dunno bout good advise. We'll just call it advise hey

Molly from here.

You may need to fabricate a new lower mount so that it sits a little bit further out from the housing to clear the pumpkin. Atleast if you use molly heims, they will be strong enough for the application. And technically NO aftermarket panhards are legal unless they are engineered/ tested etc as per relevent codes. So even if a moly panhard with moly heims IS illegal, atleast its up to the task at hand.

Haha yeah cheers for that,whats the best way to make it adjustable?I plan on reinforcing the chassis mount and the diff mount too...

There are a couple ways to make it adjustable. The best is to use a left and a right hand threaded heim, and wind them out to get extra length. But you can't go more than 10-15mm per side, or you won't have enough of the heim in the tube nut anymore.