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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:26 am 
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Ok I have a bosh 108amp alt that is going on to my gti motor :D

I am running 4gauge wire from the alto to 100amp trip switch then to the batt,I have the signal and light wires all sussed.

The question here is what do I do with the original wire(dont say tape it up!)

I have traced it back to the engine bay fuse box,to a 70amp fuse,and then it splits and goes...???anyone know where it runs or have a wiring diagram??

Cheers

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:42 am 
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use it as well mate....

thats what i would do

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:45 am 
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explain please???if I run cable to the fuse,when the alt it at full draw(or even over 70amp) it will pop the 70amp fuse??

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:09 am 
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well first off the alternator doesnt draw 108 amps... it has the ability to generate 108 amps. and it wont always put out 108 amps. it will only generate what it needs to.

i would leave the main feed with the 70 amp fuse on there and just change the fuse to a larger one. (that is on the assumption that the 70 amp fuse doesnt run anything else bar the alternator)




i dont know coileys... so just a quick question, that 70 amp fuse, is it just for the alternator main battery feed?? or does it run other electrical items as well.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:24 am 
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I know it dosn't draw 108amps and that is what it is capable of putting out 108amp max (when required) so if for some reason with spotties, fuel pumps, water pumps, themofans,winch , are all drawing..and it goes over(70amp) the fuse will blow??

The reason I'm on here is I am not sure where the wire goes after the fuse...I would have to start digging :cry:

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:43 am 
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so when you trace the wire from the alternator .. it goes up to that fuse??

i am assuming that that would be the only thing running off that use. (i am pretty sure how it would be) then the other side would just go to the battery.

the fuse will blow if more then 70 amps is applied... so you could upgrade it to a larger one, say a 100 amp. otherwise you could cut it out of the loom alltogether and just use the 4 gauge wire

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 9:54 am 
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yes..but the alt wire clips into the fuse box on one side,and then it splits to either side of the 70amp fuse..one side goes to the bat,and the other goes into the loom????

How is it on a wt???

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:44 pm 
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Run a 35mm2 cable from the alt up to the bat and keep the old one on the alt as well . The fuse will not blow it will only supply lights etc the charging current will run up the 35mm because it will have less resistance

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 10:13 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
Run a 35mm2 cable from the alt up to the bat and keep the old one on the alt as well . The fuse will not blow it will only supply lights etc the charging current will run up the 35mm because it will have less resistance


Can anyone confirm this?what about the one side of the fuse runing to the batt???so the other side feeds the lights???

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 10:41 pm 
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i have a 110amp alt.. and i am still runing the standard charge wire. no isses.
havent even upgraded the fues actualy.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 10:55 pm 
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[]http://www.suzukiinfo.com/sierra/samuraiwiringdiagram.jpg


its big and you have to cut and paste the link into your address bar for it to work
or go here http://www.suzukiinfo.com/ look on the left hand side and you will see sierra/samraia section click on that then scroll down and you will see samaria wiring diagram

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:07 am 
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ok I know you can run the std wiring,but its pointless if your running anything more than stock gear(the std alt is enough to run all that,and the wiring is prob good for up to 60amps) but why go to the trouble of putting a 110amp alt if you never get more than 70amps out of it??(before it blows the fuse)

In regards to the wiring diagram,I have this one,the prob is the main alt wire is white with green trace...not on that wiring diagram...is there a aus spec diagram???

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:16 am 
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then run 6mm wire to a new fuse box, and run out the4 mm wire from that box on a 70 amp fuse and run all your new accesories from the nox like spotlights, fridge point, headlight power wires, winch etc ecetc

Easy fix

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:18 am 
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Realistically how many times do you see yourself winching up a steep incline at night with 4 spotlights and a stereo cranking while your fridge chills your beer???

Just a thought. 70A is a fair whack isn't it??

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 8:30 am 
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Tzar I am running all my accessories off the second battery,but currently I have a thermo fan,electric water pump,2x fuel pumps and a few other accessories all on the excising system,the main reason for the upgrade is because the system draws too much when the themo fan kicks in and slows down the fuel pump which in turn leans out the motor...

What if I run 4G wire to the batt with a 100amp trip switch,and just run the old alt wire to the alt as well???that way when the lights are on ect it can still draw from the alt,and all the rest will draw via the upgraded 2g wire....

Or I could just run the old alt wire to the batt,and the new wire from the alt to batt???


mate it dosn't take much to draw 70 amps with the gear on my truck,not to mention what will be goin on it.... :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2010 5:34 pm 
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unique_seek wrote:
Ok I have a bosh 108amp alt that is going on to my gti motor :D

I am running 4gauge wire from the alto to 100amp trip switch then to the batt,I have the signal and light wires all sussed.

The question here is what do I do with the original wire(dont say tape it up!)

I have traced it back to the engine bay fuse box,to a 70amp fuse,and then it splits and goes...???anyone know where it runs or have a wiring diagram??

Cheers


What fusebox do you have in there? GTI or the original?

On a GTI - the alternator output lead goes to a "main bus" bar underneath the engine bay fuse box, and there are three other connections - one is the main fuse that goes to the battery, the other two are "sub bus" fuses, one for all switched loads, and the other for all unswitched loads - in this case switched & unswitched refers to the ignition switch - so wipers, fuel injection, turn signals, reverse lights, radio etc., are switched, and horn, lights, etc., are unswitched.

If you're wiring the new alternator directly to the battery with it's own over current protection, you can simply disconnect the original lead from where it connects to the main bus - fuses need not be changed unless you are adding extra loads downstream from the fuse panel, in which case, you also need to consider wire sizing.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 10:15 am 
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fordem wrote:

What fusebox do you have in there? GTI or the original?

On a GTI - the alternator output lead goes to a "main bus" bar underneath the engine bay fuse box, and there are three other connections - one is the main fuse that goes to the battery, the other two are "sub bus" fuses, one for all switched loads, and the other for all unswitched loads - in this case switched & unswitched refers to the ignition switch - so wipers, fuel injection, turn signals, reverse lights, radio etc., are switched, and horn, lights, etc., are unswitched.

If you're wiring the new alternator directly to the battery with it's own over current protection, you can simply disconnect the original lead from where it connects to the main bus - fuses need not be changed unless you are adding extra loads downstream from the fuse panel, in which case, you also need to consider wire sizing.


Cheers for that mate,but I'm running the std coily fuses(engine bay+in the cab)

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