[Zook_Fan]

Is it possible to go from a 1.3 to a 1L? My 1.3 has a blown head and i have a reconditioned 1L engine in my ute, I was just wondering if i could swap them over temporarily.

What would need to be done?

[tanshi]

engine mounts are all different, would be far to complicated for a temporary job

[lukes_89]

id just buy a cheapo 1.3L to get you buy you can pick em up around the 300$ mark would save you a heap of hassle

[Zook_Fan]

righto won't worry about it

i can't find a 1.3 local that is cheap enough

[lukes_89]

their are some down this way that you may be able to get couriered up to you for an alright price. how long would you need the engine in their for? or is the car witht he good 1L on the road if so use it.

[steak_knife]

Make up some plate's(bolt on) for your eng mount's & put it in, if Royce is right about Lt eng's you won't want to go back to 1.3..

[Zook_Fan]

no the 1L is not on the road, needs a new cab. courier would be pretty exxy i think for a second hand engine. I would only probably need it to last for another 20,000km's, the car won't be a daily for much longer and will be off the road within the year as it will become a comp car and the engine is likely to be changed then.

yeah i know the 1L is a good engine and i'm pretty sure it would haul ass compared to my current engine. if i can't find anything local soon then i will give it a go.

[lukes_89]

i had a engine couried from Melbourne to brissy it wasnt to bad like 200 so find like a 300$ engine and your set 500$ swap

[Gwagensteve]

It will be more hassle than it's worth. Engine mounts are the obvious one, but the gearbox mount will also require modification. Obviously once you have no engine mounts and no gearbox mount, it's easy to get the height and alignment of the engine wrong. The jackshaft will have to be custom or use a hybrid uni (which doesn't always work) as the 1.0 output shaft has a different spline to 1.3. I guess if you had a switch light transfer you could swap the transfer flange. Jackshafts are also slightly different lengths.

The 1.0 alternator is externally regulated, so you will have to swap that over, along with a ballast resistor for the coil.

You'll have to cut the tunnel to get the shifter in the right spot - the 4 speed box has the shifter in the wrong spot- too far forward - and you might even find it hits the dash.

You'll have to fit a large diameter barb to the inlet manifold to provide vacuum for your brake booster. There's no provision on a 1.0.

You'll need to do some fan shroud work as the 1.0 fan won't work well in the 1.3 shroud, and 1.0 and 1.3 radiators are (slightly) differently positioned.

The big hassle will be gearing. Obviously, you'll have no 5th (that's OK, the 1.0 doesn't have enough torque to pull 5th anyway) but you'll also have to deal with a smaller clutch and a 20% taller 1st gear. (and less torque to pull it with) That's the #1 problem with the 1.0 drivetrain - the clutch that doesn't like to slip and the tall 1st gear.

I'm going to be a bit of a hater here, but depending on how good the "reco" on the 1.0 was, I doubt it will last 20,000km of daily driving. I've seen very few reconditioned 1.0's last long at all. They ARE a great motor - much tougher than a 1.3, but it's all relative - they have 20% less power and torque than a 1.3, are less thermally efficient, have points ignition, no pollution control equipment.... and that horrible gearbox.

Don't bother. Get a swift/barina 1.3 couriered up and swap all the bits over in a weekend. It will be a much better solution than putting a 1.3 in.

If the 1.0 is a good reconditioned motor, sell it. Good 1.0's are getting hard to find.


Steve.

[Zook_Fan]

yeah i just this thread: http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ight=swift

I forgot that the swift carby engine bolts up if you swap everything over. That is great news, can get swift engines for about $150 from a local wreckers. Will check it out tomorrow to see if there are any good ones