[appsie]

gday all just wondering who is running caster wedges on their zuks and what size?i have 2" springs sagged and 2" shackles would like to try them out

also where are you buying them from? i had a look on the net before and found lowrange,but who else? thanks

[Chopz]

I'll jump in here

I've just bought a set of these but havent installed em yet, will do when I go to RUF in a few weeks. Before that i just had the regular OME 40mm springs upfront and it didnt need the wedges, but seein as I'm be using extended shackles on the RUF I bought a set to put in while I had it all out.

If you car handles fine at highway speeds now without them, and doesnt wander on road, then theres no need for them really. I would imagine with extended shackles and lifted springs though that you do.

I got mine through superior engineering, only took 2 days for delivery. I bought the 3 degree ones.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/s ... =26_29_219

[appsie]

cheers mate,i wouldnt be buying them if i didnt think i needed them but i think its the last thing to chase on my shakes list.yes it wanders all over the road,the old out of shape tyres probably dont help,the new treps might.its gets the shakes and ive replaced so much.im going to drop my shackles and try pin point if that is half my problem then put wedges and shackles back in as its allready so low as is.

thanks ill check the link

[31zook]

I cut the pads off and rotated them a bit, i run a full ruf on standard shackles and it still feels stable at 130....

If i had a camera i would show you....

[steak_knife]

appsie wrote:

cheers mate,i wouldnt be buying them if i didnt think i needed them but i think its the last thing to chase on my shakes list.yes it wanders all over the road,the old out of shape tyres probably dont help,the new treps might.its gets the shakes and ive replaced so much.im going to drop my shackles and try pin point if that is half my problem then put wedges and shackles back in as its allready so low as is.

thanks ill check the link

This is a good plan, but when fitting wedge, leave normal shackle's in, take it for a drive..
Extended shackle's may be the problem, you may not even need the wedge..
How's you king pin drag??

[gusbus]

steknig wrote:

appsie wrote:

cheers mate,i wouldnt be buying them if i didnt think i needed them but i think its the last thing to chase on my shakes list.yes it wanders all over the road,the old out of shape tyres probably dont help,the new treps might.its gets the shakes and ive replaced so much.im going to drop my shackles and try pin point if that is half my problem then put wedges and shackles back in as its allready so low as is.

thanks ill check the link

This is a good plan, but when fitting wedge, leave normal shackle's in, take it for a drive..
Extended shackle's may be the problem, you may not even need the wedge..
How's you king pin drag??

steknig what is the correct way to set the king pins?

[appsie]

x2 on the kinpin drag??i have replaced them,they sort of felt right to me?new wheel bearings,new diff housing,new steering box(pas) etc.ome steering damper,over the years ive tried it all haha

[appsie]

what annoys me is its the exact same springs,shackles as the last zuk and it wasa machine,never played up and i never replaced bits on it it was just a cheap trash car

[steak_knife]

Fish scale's!!
i do it by feel, but have replaced friggen thousand's of the bugger's is all 4by's..

royce will correct me if I'm wrong, but i think it's 4kg drag.
set the hub up no felt or rubber, connect fish scale to one side & pull, watch the weight & shim accordingly

[royce]

Manual says what to set it too, I cant reach mine

[appsie]

ahuh.thanks. so when you say leave the standard shackles in and run the wedges,if thats the case i wouldnt need the wedges tho would i?

when i had it at alignment shop here,from memory i think he said i had 1.5ish degree so im guessing negative?dont you want around 2 positive?

[steak_knife]

I think thay were only set a 1 from factory, or even 0.

Try std shackle's before you go buying stuff... & please report you finding's!!

[Fatzook]

You may also find that its not just the extra length of the shackle thats causing the wobbles.

If your shackle bushes are not in good condition, the ext shackles will exacerbate this issue.

[appsie]

when i first bought it fat it had 2" extended shackles made of 5mm haha you could watch them bow when you steered it on the spot. i made new ones of 50x8 and fitted new bushes from arab when i got my new ome springs so they have done about 8000ks???still look ok anyways.

ill see if i get a chance tonight to swap over to stocks on front.drive it to work a couple of days then see if it helps.then look at going wedges to bring it back i guess?

[appsie]

so.......put the stock shackles on the front tonight after work,with new bushes while i was at it.it sits on the bumps tho with stock shackles hahahaha.

Took it for a drive and nope,no better maybe even worse? is the bumps not helping me here?any help would be great
for my extended shackles i used 1/2" bolts so not a perfect fit in the bushes of course but by no means were they flogged out.But even replacing the bushes with standard pins tonight hasnt helped.

[sierrajim]

Had a similar issue in mine (36's) the front felt like a wheel was falling off.

Lower bearings were full of mud, no shims in one side, three in the top of the other side with none in the bottom.

Long story short, new bearing and seal kit from Burson (German bearings) reduced the three shims to two and all seems good.

I do have some wedges on the way anyway which will still be fitted, the shake could be a result of the castor being out and the bearings being loose may be allowing the movement.

One thing Mr Gwagen mentioned is that the tie rod and drag link are very light duty, when the wobble starts they might start to flex again exagerating the issue.

Don't forget to check your wheel bearings.

[appsie]

cheers.ill give ya a run down anyway
i bought it 2 years ago,drove it home with the shakes on flimsy extended shackles and well worn old 31s.

i then put in 2" ome springs,new bushes and thicker 2" ext shackles.
then put on some 50% muddies to replace the worn tyres
then done a swivel hub kit in a hole new diff and fitted it up so seals,kinpin etc
then put power steering in with vitara pitman arm.then changed to jimny arm and steering dampener
then last week put in new cromos and locrite and brand new wheel bearings packed nicely and nipped up firm.while was t it thru a bit more in kinpins aswell
then tonight new shackle bushes and stock shackles.i have 1 shim top and bottom both sides at kinpins and they feel firm,with a bit of drag on them when no arms are attatched or wheels on etc

have new treps to go on aswell,but dont think its my tyres???but in saying that last week when i put the worn rears on the front,from cig locker i couldnt get to 60 or go over cos of the shakes,put other fronts back on and its driveable again

[appsie]

cant drive it now with stockers,its a bit rough on the bumps

[JrZook]

appsie wrote:

cant drive it now with stockers,its a bit rough on the bumps

Gee how sagged are your leafs? Bumpstop clearence?

[appsie]

yeh, got commodore shocks up front, 2inch bumpstop extensions and full exo and bar work...see members thread if you wanna have a look..

[JrZook]

appsie wrote:

yeh, got commodore shocks up front, 2inch bumpstop extensions and full exo and bar work...see members thread if you wanna have a look..

Ah with OME leafs I see

[appsie]

the springs are about 26 months old.ive only done 9k in the zuk in this time so bits are relatively new.
my zuk weighs in at 1220 tho

[BlueSuzy]

she's heavy!

2" springs and 3"shackes, i used to run wedges up front. 50x10 flatbar. 100mm long, then milled an angle in them, rangeing from 1mm to 10mm. Work out that degree.

My setup now i run them in the rear to keep the tailshaft angle happy.

[sierrajim]

I see no mention in your "have done" list of wheel bearings.

[appsie]

yeah it is heavy,lot more than my old soft top thats for sure.
5* 24' that sound about right for your wedge man???haha i havent done anything like that for a while.

sierra jim,it is in there.LOOK ...haha na mate i done them last week,same time as the cromos and locrite mate its in the list .thought i better do it while apart.
times before that tho when working on diff i had packed them up a bit and nipped them up.
so i got no idea ??

[appsie]

just found my owners manual.factory issue with the zuk back in the day i guess.
has all specs and says
2-6mm toe in
camber angle 1*00'
caster angle 3*30'
trail(whatever this is ) 19.0mm
king pin angle 9*00'
when mine went to the aligners he said 1.1* im guessing that was - not +
Just incase this is handy for others in the future

[BlueSuzy]

I run Ruf with hole redrilled and 3" (doublestock) shackles.

No wobbles at all, even with mud and shit in my rims.12.5x33 on 15x8"s-28

The only time i do get them, is when i hit the speed bumps at work, if it wobbles, it means my wheel bearings are loose. And they are. I know her well I made up some new locking washers to pissoff the shit star ones..

[Hybrid]

I'm the biggest advocate of caster wedges you'll find. I love them. I used to drive day in and day out on the freeway and was sick of road camber or truck winds determining my direction. I don't really see how they could fix your death wobbles though. Really all they do is make it track straight and get you a bit more dynamic camber.

I did get wobbles with extended shackles on my RUF setup. They chewed through bushes and allowed my diff to move side to side. I reckon your problem is the shackles. Especially seeing as your pins are smaller than the bore of the bush. Even if the bushes are perfect having a smaller pin will give you the same issues of chewed out bushes if you think about it. As long as your on the bumpstops though it is gonna really play up. Imagine what happens when when one wheel goes over a bump and hits the stop. If the diff doesn't hit both stops at the same time your gonna get the wobbles. Either get some heavy duty springs fitted to lose the sag or lose some bumpstop lenth. I'd do the bumpstop length first because you don't need two inches. I run commo shocks, no bodylift and 31s and I only needed a bit over 1 inch if I recall correctly. Once you've got stock shackles in and you can drive without hitting the bumpstops see how you go. Still buy the wedges though because they rock

[appsie]

yeah i understand the hole 1/2" pin so 12.7 in a 13mm bush idea.but 90% of zooks would have this and my previous 2 have had it.not saying it isnt a bad idea tho having them

i have had 2 sets of vs wagon rears in the front now first set blew as i was too lazy to bumpstop it.got a new set and they were longer,instead of needing 25 like the last set measured they needed 45 so i went 50 to be sure and its easy.
i am planning on moving my shock towers up to do away with bumps all together tho??

timmy, my bearings are nice and tight i made sure of that when i fitted them last week so i dunno.
has been suggested i look at kingpin shims?

[appsie]

ok.....so ithought my bearings were tight enough.mr green popped round before and we checked.they were lose i thought they wouldnt have come that lose so quick ,jacked it up pulled apart tightened up again.took it for a drive,no different at all.

and this is with no bumpstops in and mr greens brand new 33s.still got longer shackles in at the moment tho.will try stock shackles again tomorrow i guess and look at kingpins.

but its time to go off to the tyre shop for the new tyres to be fitted and balanced etc and get it checked for caster etc and fit some wedges