[suzukilwb]

i am putting 1.3L diff and housing into my 1L lwb. the tail shaft and the thingy that the tail shaft bolts to on the diff are a bees dick out so my question is.

can i drill the holes out just a little? or will that unbalance the shaft

or should i charge the uni over/can i do it? if so how

[unique_seek]

Not to sure about this conversion...,but are you using 1l or 1.3l tailshafts?can you just run your 1l flange on the 1.3l diff?or run the 1.3l tailshaft with the 1l uni/flange on the transfer side??

[Gwagensteve]

The spigot is a different diameter so unless you are a talented machinist you won't be re drilling the holes and keeping it in line.

Creating a "hybrid" uni is possible but it can be a bit hit and miss. They can sort of work, but they can sort of not.

If you have a 4WD light transfer case, it might be easier to swap the transfer case flange to a 1.3 flange and use a 1.3 driveshaft (as they are better anyway)

Steve

[suzukilwb]

i got 1.3l diff out of a swb and putting it in my 1l lwb so cant change the tail shaft over. not to sure if the flange would fit seeing as they are diffrent diffs will have a look tomorrow

[Gwagensteve]

You need to swap the transfer flange and use the 1.3 tailshaft, not the diff flange - they aren't interchangeable.

You REALLY want a 1.3 driveshaft. They are MILES better.

Steve.

[suzukilwb]

Gwagensteve wrote:

You need to swap the transfer flange and use the 1.3 tailshaft, not the diff flange - they aren't interchangeable.

You REALLY want a 1.3 driveshaft. They are MILES better.

Steve.

yeah i got a tcase with a light. im trying to keep cost down so dont really wont to go out at buy a tail shaft unless i really have to.

[Gwagensteve]

Might be cheaper than getting a machinist to machine up the teensy little spigot spacer and redrill the diff flange (bearing in mind you'll have to set the preload up on the diff again once you've removed it to drill it)

I've tried drilling a flange without the spigot spacer and it was vibralicious.

That's why I suggested the bolt in solution.

Steve.

[suzukilwb]

yeah hmmmmmm

cheers for the help

[Gwagensteve]

I have a 1.0/1.3 adapted transfer flange in Piggles. (1.0 jackshaft/1.3 transfer) that was professionally machined. Much easier to swap than a diff flange.

Steve.

[suzukilwb]

yeah got any pics?

when i done my 1.3l motor and box into my zook. we had to change the uni over from 1.3l jackshaft to end up with 1l end to fit my1l tcase works fine for me. but wasn't sure about doing it to my diff

[mrw82]

just do a half and half uni and use a 1.3 tailshaft flange. the uni's are the same anyway except one has circlips on the inside of the bearing cup the other has them on the outside.


STEVE, just out of curiosity what makes a 1.3 tailshaft miles better then a 1 litre one? if one end spins and the other end follows what more could you ask for?

[Gwagensteve]

I've run a bunch of 1/2 and 1/2 unis and sometimes they are sweet, but other times they are too loose or too tight and vibrate.

You'd want to start with two new unis from the same manufacturer.

1.3 tailshafts have heavier will thickness and a larger spline on the slip. The 1.0 front is cool as it's solid and so is good for clearing things like trimatic oil pans, but the (LWB in particular) 1.0 rear is terrible. I have quite a few worn, dented lwb 1.0 rears in the shed.

Steve.

[suzukilwb]

whats a other vibration in a zook anyway?

i had a thought im going to have the same problem with the front to

[Gwagensteve]

It's not a good vibration

[suzukilwb]

Gwagensteve wrote:

It's not a good vibration

i will let my gf decide hope she dont read that one