[lukes_89]

no i didnt removed the line just everything else 85.95 for a bearing and seal wtf!! then just have to find some to press it in

[jdk81]

banga wrote:

shouldn't they only be as tight as needed to get the play out of the wheel.

Correct!

The correct procedure is to put bearings in, tighen nut while turning hub (this helps to remove the burs in the race and on bearings) to 80Nm.
Then undo nut (0Nm), and retorque to 10Nm.

Install lock washer, then install lock nut 60-90Nm.

[jdk81]

lukes_89 wrote:

no i didnt removed the line just everything else 85.95 for a bearing and seal wtf!! then just have to find some to press it in

You dont need a press to fit.

Carefully knock the old races out with a punch and BFH.

Clean, add some grease for lube and gently tap new races in with a socket and BFH. (make sure you have them in the correct orientation).

I believe I modifed a punch for this job, so I could get better purchase.
First hub took ages while I shaped the punch on the grinder, the next hub took only a few minutes.

[lukes_89]

jdk81 wrote:

banga wrote:

shouldn't they only be as tight as needed to get the play out of the wheel.

Correct!

The correct procedure is to put bearings in, tighen nut while turning hub (this helps to remove the burs in the race and on bearings) to 80Nm.
Then undo nut (0Nm), and retorque to 10Nm.

Install lock washer, then install lock nut 60-90Nm.

i dont know how to meausre all these nm as im just using a ratchet and sockets. ripco want 70$ for the bearing getting cheaper

[lukes_89]

jdk81 wrote:

lukes_89 wrote:

no i didnt removed the line just everything else 85.95 for a bearing and seal wtf!! then just have to find some to press it in

You dont need a press to fit.

Carefully knock the old races out with a punch and BFH.

Clean, add some grease for lube and gently tap new races in with a socket and BFH. (make sure you have them in the correct orientation).

I believe I modifed a punch for this job, so I could get better purchase.
First hub took ages while I shaped the punch on the grinder, the next hub took only a few minutes.

ok well i dont have a BFH i have a normal hammer and i only have small sockets but will give it a go and how do i tell the orientation of the bearing brothers on his way up with his trade card for ripco so should get it cheaper around the 50$ mark

[Jazzor]

Ok awesome . Check ebay too, there are some sets for 70-80 for both sides for the 2 bearings and 1 seals per side.

Turning the hub as you do it up is a good idea . My bad on doing them up too tightly but it does suck constantly tightening them if they are too loose.

[lukes_89]

yeh would go ebay but i want the car back on the road today as its my only free sort of day as i have uni tonight where dose this seal go i sore no seal :S and so what i should do press new bearing in and hold ratchet in one spot and spin the hub to tighten it? i doubt i will make it to tight as im using the adjust wrench mind blank and forgot their name haha

[jdk81]

How long is your ratchet handle?
Just ball park conversions

80Nm ~= 8kg on a 1m bar
10Nm ~= 1 kg on a 1m bar
60-90 Nm = 6-8 kg on a 1m bar (say 7kg for ease)

Say your ratchet handle is 30 cm long
apply what you feel these forces to the handle.
80Nm = 27 kg
10Nm = 3kg
60-90Nm = 23kg

If you really want you could create your own torque wrench using you ratchet a piece of pipe (1m long) and a few containers of water.

[jdk81]

lukes_89 wrote:

yeh would go ebay but i want the car back on the road today as its my only free sort of day as i have uni tonight where dose this seal go i sore no seal :S and so what i should do press new bearing in and hold ratchet in one spot and spin the hub to tighten it? i doubt i will make it to tight as im using the adjust wrench mind blank and forgot their name haha

oh nut fuckers.... bad bad bad...

The only time a shifter belongs in a garage is when you cant find a hammer.

Download a manual
The seal is on the inside of the hub, near the larger race (it stops crap from the knuckle getting into the hub bearings)

[lukes_89]

its about 25cms but i know what you mean will give it a go and hope i get it close to your specs thanks for your help guys hopefully be back on the road next couple of hourshow do i work out the orientation and where does the seal go?

[Jazzor]

In the zoo.

Wherever the current bearings and seal comes from, they go in the same spot. I can't remember right now if the seal goes on the outside bearing facing you or the one on the inside.

Did you take off/notice a seal (rubber ring thing) in all the grease when you got it apart?

[jdk81]

lukes_89 wrote:

its about 25cms but i know what you mean will give it a go and hope i get it close to your specs thanks for your help guys hopefully be back on the road next couple of hourshow do i work out the orientation and where does the seal go?

The taper bearings are alligned so you tighten them and force them into each other

[lukes_89]

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl= ... 59&bih=574

thats what i have prob better off with a shifter haha it got the nut off so will do the same and get the hammer and chisel out to give it a bit of a tighten. got to best i can do with what i have at the moment. cant download a manual as of the internet i have , so what im figuring is that you put the seal on the very inside of hub facing engine bay and then their are 2 different sizes of bearing and put the larger bearing on the inside smaller one on the outside correct? and is their a direction the bearing needs to go in no front and back of each one?

[shep]

MUD-PIG did a great step by step article on how to do wheel bearings. i am
sure it is in the tech articles.


edit: here it is.
http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Ne ... c=2&page=2

[shep]

i get ages (years) between adjusting wheel bearings it is just important to do them up correctly.

tighten them to50flb then back them of to 0flb then do them up to 10.5flb and ya laughing.

[lukes_89]

i had a look in the tech thing it dosnt go as far as showing what way to put the bearings in :S im just going to do them up to what seems reasonable and so they can still spin and no play.

[Jazzor]

In the diagram from jdk81 you can see what way the races face. The races are the bits the bearing sit in, your kit might come with new races that can get replaced also. So from there you can figure out what way the bearings sit in them. I'm fairly sure both are the same size, look out if they are not.

[lukes_89]

well guys i have so far successfully installed a new wheel bearing and of course with my luck i wa slike hrmm i might add some grease to my other hub as its really hard to turn open it to find no grease at all and is stuffed so now need a new hub.

[Jazzor]

Arg, yea my original ones were corroded a bit from the years it was driven around in 2wd (probably with no grease too) so they didn't lock properly 100% of the time and all the nuts were rounded off so i got new ones. You might be able to find some cheap 2nd hand ones that work well from the forum here rather than buying new hubs, they won't be as cheap as bearings .


Grats though, wasn't it fun? . With the wheel back on does it wobble at all now in the bearing/nut area, or nice and solid?.