[whib]

a thread grave dig sorry,
I changed my oil yesterday, i put in some valvoline semi synthetic 10W-40.
the motors a g16a tbi, would this be ok, or should i be puting a different thickness in?

[whincup]

...what is the advantage/disadvantage of running thicker/thinner oils? people talk about using the 10W40 mostly, is it better for the car than 20W50, which i run?... mine doesnt use oil, never seen it blow smoke in the 2 years ive had it, and is really quiet (by sierra standards)...

i just use that Valvoline, i think its "XLD Premium" but not 100% sure...

better yet, i'll just go google it and answer my own questions...

[shabz]

ScrawnC wrote:

I would run a 10w40 in it. I think they hold 4.5-5 litres

According to the book the GV will hold 5.5 litres....in reality its actually closer to 6 (when filter changed as well)

i use the castrol gtx3...or something like that - in the red container....its a 15/40 oil from memory.......never had any problems...

oh and i dont get any chain rattle any more either

[shabz]

royce wrote:

the thought that a bigger number handles more heat is rubbish, likewise your engine runs at a nominal 90 degrees regardless of outside temp!

you're right here royce.....heres a quick breakdown on what the numbers actually mean.

Its all about the viscosity of the oil at cold, and at operating temperatures.

oil A - 20w50
oil B - 10w40
oil C - 5w50

At cold temperature oil A is thicker than oil B, which is thicker than oil C. This is all seen in the first number.

At operating temperature, oil A will be just as viscous (think) as oil C. Oil B will be a little thinner. This is the second number.

So at cold start up, oil C is the thinnest, thus able to flow through the engine easier than thicker oils. However when the engine is warm, oil C behaves in the same way that oil A does.

If engines all run at a similar temperature when warm - why do people choose 'thicker' or 'thinner' oils? Well depends on the car. High performance cars with high tech engines and high tech cooling systems have much lower tollerances than a 25 year old zook, so they'd probably choose a 5w30 or something like that - a 'thinner' oil.

A 25 year old zook at high revs in low second gear isn't getting much air flow, hence cooling, and likely to be running slightly hotter, hence a 'thicker' oil maybe be better. This is because the oil will still hold its chemical properties and do its job - where as a thinner oil at higher temps may not be so great.

hope this helps out


Do a google search and you can find more detailed technical explanations on this but this is the basics...

[boballan82]

I witnessed alot of testing with Motor Oils by the defence research centre and there findings were that the best oils to use were as follows

1. Mobil 1
2. Castrol Magnatech
3. Penrite

I have used Castol magatech in all my vehicles and had a commodore keep running at 400,000 klm without using oil. Also used in my Rally car and the engine was spotless at each yearly rebuild.

[Jester]

royce wrote:

the fix for festivas with tappet knock is 5w30 oil country wide

the later WF festiva that is its stock asking for oil, they drive a heap better on it too

[foonji]

I use Penrite HPR 30 20w60 in my sierra, runs nice.

[MacDaddy]

shabz wrote:

royce wrote:

the thought that a bigger number handles more heat is rubbish, likewise your engine runs at a nominal 90 degrees regardless of outside temp!

you're right here royce.....heres a quick breakdown on what the numbers actually mean.

Its all about the viscosity of the oil at cold, and at operating temperatures.

oil A - 20w50
oil B - 10w40
oil C - 5w50

At cold temperature oil A is thicker than oil B, which is thicker than oil C. This is all seen in the first number.

At operating temperature, oil A will be just as viscous (think) as oil C. Oil B will be a little thinner. This is the second number.

So at cold start up, oil C is the thinnest, thus able to flow through the engine easier than thicker oils. However when the engine is warm, oil C behaves in the same way that oil A does.

If engines all run at a similar temperature when warm - why do people choose 'thicker' or 'thinner' oils? Well depends on the car. High performance cars with high tech engines and high tech cooling systems have much lower tollerances than a 25 year old zook, so they'd probably choose a 5w30 or something like that - a 'thinner' oil.

A 25 year old zook at high revs in low second gear isn't getting much air flow, hence cooling, and likely to be running slightly hotter, hence a 'thicker' oil maybe be better. This is because the oil will still hold its chemical properties and do its job - where as a thinner oil at higher temps may not be so great.

hope this helps out


Do a google search and you can find more detailed technical explanations on this but this is the basics...

Thankyou, that is a good explanation of the oils... so what do you put in your GV ?
Now that the weather is getting colder, i have noticed that i get a couple of seconds of timing chain rattle from a cold start... not sure what oil its got in it, but i am guessing it needs a thinner oil for cold starts...

And what do you think about Semi and Full Synthetic oils, i am guessing they perform alot better, but why, and all cars cant run them, would a Semi Synth be ok in the GV ?, i am looking at the Nulon 5W 40 Semi-Synth Oil for my GV...

[shabz]

MacBear wrote:

shabz wrote:

royce wrote:

the thought that a bigger number handles more heat is rubbish, likewise your engine runs at a nominal 90 degrees regardless of outside temp!

you're right here royce.....heres a quick breakdown on what the numbers actually mean.

Its all about the viscosity of the oil at cold, and at operating temperatures.

oil A - 20w50
oil B - 10w40
oil C - 5w50

At cold temperature oil A is thicker than oil B, which is thicker than oil C. This is all seen in the first number.

At operating temperature, oil A will be just as viscous (think) as oil C. Oil B will be a little thinner. This is the second number.

So at cold start up, oil C is the thinnest, thus able to flow through the engine easier than thicker oils. However when the engine is warm, oil C behaves in the same way that oil A does.

If engines all run at a similar temperature when warm - why do people choose 'thicker' or 'thinner' oils? Well depends on the car. High performance cars with high tech engines and high tech cooling systems have much lower tollerances than a 25 year old zook, so they'd probably choose a 5w30 or something like that - a 'thinner' oil.

A 25 year old zook at high revs in low second gear isn't getting much air flow, hence cooling, and likely to be running slightly hotter, hence a 'thicker' oil maybe be better. This is because the oil will still hold its chemical properties and do its job - where as a thinner oil at higher temps may not be so great.

hope this helps out


Do a google search and you can find more detailed technical explanations on this but this is the basics...

Thankyou, that is a good explanation of the oils... so what do you put in your GV ?
Now that the weather is getting colder, i have noticed that i get a couple of seconds of timing chain rattle from a cold start... not sure what oil its got in it, but i am guessing it needs a thinner oil for cold starts...

And what do you think about Semi and Full Synthetic oils, i am guessing they perform alot better, but why, and all cars cant run them, would a Semi Synth be ok in the GV ?, i am looking at the Nulon 5W 40 Semi-Synth Oil for my GV...

I use castrol gtx3 - its 15w40.

I've used it in the past on heaps of other cars, and never had a problem. I have been thinking of changing to a 10w40 or 5w40 - mainly for the cold start ups and timing chain noise.....but i've found after using an engine flush and change oil every 7-8 thousand kays i never get the rattle.

I don't know too much about oil blends though. But i know that a fully synth oil has less impurities than a semi synth or full mineral oil....maybe someone else here knows

[BJPK]

why do people dislike magnatech so much?
i put it in the sierra the other day and must say im impressed so far.
less piston slap on cold start ups and seems to accelerate slightly quicker due to the lower viscosity!? doesnt blow any smoke even though its a lower viscosity than what i usually run. (not that it did ever blow smoke)
previously been using genuine toyota oil 20/50 because its free from work.

[Bruce]

I've been running 10w40 Magnatech in my Lancer from new (1999 VRX) It's done just over 250k and never had a worry.

[atari4x4]

jonno_racing wrote:

after killing 2 gti motors from cheep oil.. i have decided nothing but the best.. that extra $60 at the oil change saves me having to spend a day riping the gti motor out and putting a new one in.. oh and the coin!

for run in i used mobil 1 fully synthetic 5w25

and i am about to put this in (cant actually buy this off the shelf in aus mates work gets it in)

Elf 5w40 fully synthetic, yes its probably more expensive than a bar of gold, but worth it imo

was this before or after the last rebuild?

[zukmeista]

Slightly off-topic I know, but the other day when I was topping up the oil I noticed quite a bit of gunk under the rocker cover. What is the best way to get rid of this?

[Chop]

By gunk do you mean grey creamy substance?

Chop

[steak_knife]

zukmeista wrote:

Slightly off-topic I know, but the other day when I was topping up the oil I noticed quite a bit of gunk under the rocker cover. What is the best way to get rid of this?

Oil flush.. & regular servicing..

[crazynic]

In my 99 V6 GV im currently running castrol magnatec professional 10/30..

When I first got the car it had a timing chain rattle on start up for about 5 seconds or so...

For the first couple of oil changes (5K intervals) I used an oil flush...

Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

Now there is no start up rattle and does not use oil between servicing so I must be doing something right!

[MacDaddy]

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

[TheOtherLeft]

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

I thought Ryco's had non-return valves?

[MacDaddy]

TheOtherLeft wrote:

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

I thought Ryco's had non-return valves?

From what i found out, some, not all...

[steak_knife]

TheOtherLeft wrote:

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

I thought Ryco's had non-return valves?

That make's two of us....

[crazynic]

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

What the f$ck are you on about just use a Z172 oil filter they have an anti-drain back valve.

[MacDaddy]

crazynic wrote:

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

What the f$ck are you on about just use a Z172 oil filter they have an anti-drain back valve.

From what i understand, NO they dont all have that !
You can use a standard Ryco Z172 filter, i aint, i will use the right one for my GV !

[royce]

Z418 has a non return valve

172 is a bigger version of a 125 which is a bigger version of a 418, if you think that somehow is bad for your engine you need more alfoil hat

[atari4x4]

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

What the f$ck are you on about just use a Z172 oil filter they have an anti-drain back valve.

From what i understand, NO they dont all have that !
You can use a standard Ryco Z172 filter, i aint, i will use the right one for my GV !

so what is the "right" one for a gv?

[SuziBlu]

Seeing whats going on here, I went to the Ryco site to where you ask for the correct filter and punched in Suzuki and GV ( Grand Vitara) the answer. No matching part numbers.

[MacDaddy]

atari4x4 wrote:

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

MacBear wrote:

crazynic wrote:

...
Ive always used ryco filters on all my cars..

While Ryco are good oil filters, they can be Wrong for a GV... the right oil filter, needs a " non oil return valve " in them, or those first few seconds of startup will leave the timing chain without oil, and it will rattle... i found this out, when i had a major service done on my GV 6 weeks ago, and was told it had the wrong oil filter... so i would check that you have the right oil filter...

What the f$ck are you on about just use a Z172 oil filter they have an anti-drain back valve.

From what i understand, NO they dont all have that !
You can use a standard Ryco Z172 filter, i aint, i will use the right one for my GV !

so what is the "right" one for a gv?

Until i hear differently, with verifiable facts/info, a Suzuki Genuine Oil Filter !
http://www.suzistore.com.au/shopexd.asp?id=407

[steak_knife]

http://www.acdelco.com.au/PDFs/Catalogu ... -05-10.pdf

http://www.acdelco.com.au/catalogues.html

[MacDaddy]

royce wrote:

Z418 has a non return valve

172 is a bigger version of a 125 which is a bigger version of a 418, if you think that somehow is bad for your engine you need more alfoil hat

Ah ok... i didnt say bad, just not right, and with an engine thats done 200,000kms, i would prefer to use the right one for it, i dont mind spending the coin to make it last longer...

[royce]

$42.50!!!!

ryco is a permitted replacement for any brand anyone here will ever afford, I would rather put the left over $30 into better oil and 5000km oil changes

[atari4x4]

SuziBlu wrote:

Seeing whats going on here, I went to the Ryco site to where you ask for the correct filter and punched in Suzuki and GV ( Grand Vitara) the answer. No matching part numbers.

i think the internets is holding information from you D?

http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue ... AND+VITARA

SQ625 LWB Petrol V6 2.5L H25A MPFI DOHC 24V 04/98-05 Oil = Z172 Air =A1340 Fuel=Z572