[sharky]

Ive just changed my wheel bearings and guess what? Its the damm brake pads squelling. Theres still 3mm of pad there? Why is it squealling?

[Bruce]

I'm guessing front disc?
At the back of the pad there will be (not always) a wear bit of steel. When the pad gets low the steel will hit the disc.It's to tell you that your pads are getting low and need replacing.

[sharky]

Bruce wrote:

I'm guessing front disc?
At the back of the pad there will be (not always) a wear bit of steel. When the pad gets low the steel will hit the disc.It's to tell you that your pads are getting low and need replacing.

I will go grab sum asap. Im going up Rainbow bch in the morning. Cheers

[buzbox]

It's also known as a brake pad wear indicator.
Don't you check other components while everything is apart?

BTW It's a very good idea to have the rotors machined or replaced when you put new pads in.

[sharky]

buzbox wrote:

It's also known as a brake pad wear indicator.
Don't you check other components while everything is apart?

BTW It's a very good idea to have the rotors machined or replaced when you put new pads in.

Cheers mate. Its only a vitara. Note to self, Change pads and tie rod end.

[buzbox]

And get the rotors machined...

When it comes to brakes, you should never take the "she'll be right" or in your case "It's just a vitara" attitude. No matter what car it is, When the pads need changing I always have the rotors machined or replaced, I also flush out and replace the brake fluid. I believe those couple of things should ALWAYS be done when replacing pads.

That extra $20-30 spent will give you much better braking and will extend the life of the pads, And that means getting the most out of what you paid for and you will save money in the long run.

[Bruce]

Thanks Buzbox, could not think of the word for it. "wear indicator"
But I knew what I meant

[sharky]

buzbox wrote:

And get the rotors machined...

When it comes to brakes, you should never take the "she'll be right" or in your case "It's just a vitara" attitude. No matter what car it is, When the pads need changing I always have the rotors machined or replaced, I also flush out and replace the brake fluid. I believe those couple of things should ALWAYS be done when replacing pads.

That extra $20-30 spent will give you much better braking and will extend the life of the pads, And that means getting the most out of what you paid for and you will save money in the long run.

yeah ok thanks for the advice matey.

[sharky]

Bruce wrote:

Thanks Buzbox, could not think of the word for it. "wear indicator"
But I knew what I meant

Wish i new this earlier. Never too late. Thanks for the help. Picked up Pads for $38 took ten mins to change

[buzbox]

Sigh

What's that old saying? you can only lead a horse to water...

I was hoping you would understand the safety aspect of changing rotors, pads and fluid, but by buying the cheapest pads available obviously you don't give a shit about yours or other peoples safety, let alone performance.

Good luck with it...

[weaves]

Its not even the price of the pads buzbox, With nicely machined, flat and true rotors, im sure they would work fine.

But i guess now it wouldn't matter if he had forked out for those $80+ Bendex advance or EBC pads.

The way i've always done it, is when i do a cars brakes for the first time i like to buy new rotors, chuck the old ones in the back of the shed and next time around, take those down, get them machined. do a quick swap and keep rotating it. Nice and easy.