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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 3:20 pm |
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G'day
I posted few weeks ago a problem with my leaking sump. well, Royce was right it was a rear main seal, I just didn't want to believe that it could happened after 5000km. I replaced seal and don't know if the seal was shit one or I did something wrong. I replaced seal without removing oil seal housing, applied engine oil to outer edge and gently tapped it in using a roll of duct tape and rubber hammer. tape was just right size. According to haynes manual I should have applied a moly base grease to the inner lip of the seal not engine oil. anyway they do not recommend doing it that way, because there is a chance of damaging the seal. they recommend to remove oil pan and oil seal housing and install the seal to the housing and than after applying moly grease to crankshaft and seal lip gently push and install seal housing.
what method do you recommend from your experience?
can it leak from seal housing instead of seal? is it easy to I damage the seal if you install without removing seal housing?
If I remove seal housing should I use new gasket only or can I only use same sealant as for the sump instead of the gasket?
should I use/avoid any particular brand of seals or buy genuine one? i used one apparently made in japan (red/brown colour)
I don't want to fuck it up again so would appreciate some advise so at least I learn my lesson.
one more problem, here are some pictures
I don't know but it looks for me like camshaft seal or crankshaft even both leak a bit. it's like that since few years, doesn't leak badly. I changed timing belt and it looked like no oil was on it.
is it possible that it can leak (photo3) between part 1 (engine front cover??-or oil pump cover??) and part 2 (engine block?) instead of seals? I understand that I need to pull things apart to be sure, but what would you do? should i change timing belt just in case, camshaft and crankshaft seal and leave the oil pump or remove it and use new gasket (I guess sealant is not good instead of gasket??)
haynes manual mentions that for crankshaft seal use engine oil for outer seal edge nothing about inner lip, should i use moly base grease on inner seal lip (if there is any) for camshaft seal they mention outer edge oil, inner moly base grease.
how can i undo center bolt from crankshaft? i know that i have to remove timing belt and block somehow crankshaft, any tips?
I hope someone will find patience to answer my questions
cheers
Chris
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Jester
Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 726 Location: Adelaide
Vehicle: 1985 Suzuki MightyBoy
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 Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:00 pm |
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cam and crank seals are piss easy to do with the timing belt, and these Gseries engines are the easiest bloody thing in the world to do the timing belt on
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:54 am |
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anyone any tips? well, looks like I'm on my own with this one
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royce

omnipotent being
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 17216 Location: Pluto
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:00 am |
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reckon you have answered your questions, you might of caught the rear main but its helpful to grease em, fwiw I stuck one in mine and a few thousand later had to pull it apart to stick another clutch in and it had a weep, replaced it with another of the same brand and its been fine
your front leak is the cam or crank seal, better to do em sometime jsut to keep the engine and belt clean
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MrRocky
Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 4731 Location: perth
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:05 am |
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use a very thin wipe of loctite around the outer seal and wack it in, ive done heaps of motors like this and never had 1 leak, I have however replaced a gseries rear main and then figured out it was my g/box input shaft seal, pays to do both while its apart.
_________________ ...
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:23 am |
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MrRocky wrote: use a very thin wipe of loctite around the outer seal and wack it in, ive done heaps of motors like this and never had 1 leak, I have however replaced a gseries rear main and then figured out it was my g/box input shaft seal, pays to do both while its apart.
I concur..
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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PJ.zook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 845 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:22 pm |
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You dont have to remove the housing as long as it was properly centered to begin with.
I replaced mine with an aftermarket seal, the bastard leaked after a month, so I replaced it with a genuine seal ($33), and it hasnt missed a beat yet.
I never use anything but genuine on any seals that are a bastard to get to like rear mains, etc...
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:49 pm |
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thanks for replies,
is genuine suzuki seal better than ACL ones from repco?
if I need to remove sump for any reason, can I use a gasket only if I have one or gasket and sealant.
i know that sealant only will work, but i consider buying an engine kit of genuine suzuki seals and gaskets and sump gasket is included, hence my question
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fordem
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 2656 Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: APK416, A6G415, A6N415
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:26 pm |
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The SGP kit for the G13 doesn't come with a sump gasket - they don't use one from the factory either.
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PJ.zook

az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:30 pm Posts: 845 Location: Melbourne
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 Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:54 pm |
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Different people have different ways of doing things. Me personally, doing this shit for a living, I always coat gaskets with gasket goo as I hate doing shit twice, and so does the customer. You only need a light smear though, as once the surfaces are brought together and the gasket crushed, there will only be enough room for a poofteenth of coon, the rest gets squeezed out, why waste it.
Yes the genuine seal is better than the ACL ones. Thats not to say the ACL ones arent good, they will both still work, but its like shooting a fish in a barrel. You can either knock it on the head with a stick, or you could use a brick of Semtex. Either way the fish has bought it.
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 12:20 am |
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fordem wrote: The SGP kit for the G13 doesn't come with a sump gasket - they don't use one from the factory either.
i should have mention that i have g16a engine in my zook, but i thought all those 2 engines are in this matter same, but i might be wrong
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fordem
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 2656 Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: APK416, A6G415, A6N415
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 Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:20 am |
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I've never check the G16, but I don't think they use a gasket either.
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BlueSuzy

az supporter
Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 9716 Location: NSW
Vehicle: SJ51 LWB, SJ70 SWB
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 Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:22 am |
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Silicon!
I never use a gasket on the sump.
_________________ BlueSuzy wrote: I'm over the G16b's.
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Hybrid

az supporter
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1095 Location: Bulimba, Brisbane
Vehicle: '92 Sierra
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 Posted: Fri Sep 10, 2010 5:01 am |
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I just bought a non genuine seal kit for my g16a and it came with a sump gasket.
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