[sickzuk1]

Ok everyone...
My engine seems to stall ALL the time!!
If I dont have my foot on the pedal giving it a little bit of grunt the engine will turn off.
So it is apparant that when I am breaking at an intersection or whenever I change gears too slow the engine dies..
I need to know what on earth is going on? Because it is quite dangerous to drive on the road to work every day...
Does anyone know what the issue may be???

[jdk81]

check the carby.

how long has this been happening for?

Similar issues can be due to a vacuum leak and/or blocked idle jet in the carby.

[sickzuk1]

How do I check the carby?? It has been happening for ages..
I have tried:
New spark plugs, New Spark Plug leads, New Fuel Pump & New ignition Coil...
Yet it is still happening?
I have cleaned the carby out with carby cleaner and blocked off the air intake while giving the engine revs (Apparantly this cleans the fuel bowl???)
But I dont know what else it could be??

[Jord]

on the carby do u have a plug with 3 wires. if this is disconnected ur engine will stall as one of the solenoid's wont open and keep the idle up solenoid

well i think its what its called. either way its the solenoid that screws into the carby and is on the same side as the rocker cover.

i had my plug come undone once drove for 2 days like that and discoverd it has rattled loose.

may be worth a check!

[shep]

firstly make sure that there is a clicking noise from the carby when ya turn the ignition key to on. if it clicks then
try turning the motor off and swapping the 2 middle spark plug leads around and then start
the car and make it back fire for a minute or so. swap the leads back and then check that all the little hoses are attached to something and the 4 bolts that hold the carby on are tight.
start the car, if it is fixed then hope that it stays fixed.

[shep]

or keep listening to a certain crappy VW tech and doing the old replace stuff until it is fixed.

[sickzuk1]

shep wrote:

or keep listening to a certain crappy VW tech and doing the old replace stuff until it is fixed.

Ok well I will try all of these things.. Thanks...
Shep... Are u refferring to V.W.Dave by any chance?? Hahaha

[jdk81]

Check fuel cutoff solenoid.

Taken from other post done tonight

Download the service manual to compliment the haynes manual. There is a download section here

Buy a carby rebuild kit off ebay. ($44) If you recently put a new one through it, you can get away without another. Providing you are careful with the gaskets.

Carefully rebuild your carby to factory specs. ($14 carby cleaner and an air compressor). Do not cut corners, strip it all the way back and blast it with air. Cutting corners leads to headaches.

Check all vacuum lines are hooked up correctly. Inspect all rubber hoses on the vehicle, if any look damaged, replace them. (I replaced everything, assuming they havent been done before, but you dont need to).
Spray some aerostart around all vacuum hoses to see if there is a leak. (rpm will change if there is a leak).

Pry off the cover on the idle mixture screw, screw it in all the way, then take it out two full turns.
Start it up and set idle at 850 rpm.
Check timing.

Once this is done, spray very small squirts of aerostart/start ya bastard etc down the primary throat while it idles. adjusting the mixture screw until it starts to loose revs instead of increasing with the slightest spray of aerostart.
This is your ideal mixture setting, the factory setting is slightly out because of the extractors.
Set idle to 850rpm again, and spray aerostart, repeat until it is at 850rpm and ever so slightly loses revs with a tiny spray of aerostart.


My advice... is once the carby is running well, go crazy on the filtering.
Seal up air intake, modify air box drain, and multiple fuel filters.

The coil, leads, and fuel pump can be tested before replacement. Spark plugs can be inspected but at $4 each, not a biggie.

I installed a marine fuel filter, which seperates particles and water from fuel, before the pump. and motorbike filter after the pump.
Motorbike fuel filter was $4, and marine filter was $50 (stock type filters kept breaking internally from vibrations).

Go to bunnings and buy a 10mm diam 90 elbow piece, and a plastic tap (10mm ends), and a length of 10mm black pipe. (garden irrigation type stuff).
Put a 10mm diam 90 degree T piece into the bottom of the airbox (superglue and a bit of silicone), run some bunnings black pipe towards front (ensure it goes down), fit the tap in a easy to reach spot, then continue the hose , I went to body lift block on the front.
Leave it open when doing general driving, and close it before water crossings, or when you go out wheeling etc (its easy to remember, just another step like checking the oil and coolant etc if you close it before you leave).

Once this done.. then fully seal the air intake system from top of carby to air filter.
i.e. run a line of silicone around the top and bottom of your air filter, so it fully seals.

I shit you not, setting the carby up to factory specs, then tweaking the idle following the method mentioned will get her and keep her running great.
Read my thread on playing with an o2 sensor.

When you do water crossings so much water comes through that tiny little hole and sprays mud and crap all in the air box and into the carby.

Consider a prefilter too (before the air filter).

[JrZook]

jdk81 wrote:

Pry off the cover on the idle mixture screw, screw it in all the way, then take it out two full turns.
Start it up and set idle at 850 rpm.
Check timing.

Once this is done, spray very small squirts of aerostart/start ya bastard etc down the primary throat while it idles. adjusting the mixture screw until it starts to loose revs instead of increasing with the slightest spray of aerostart.

Simplified version, start at 2 or so turns out and warm the engine up. Set the idle speed to 850rpm then screw in the mixture screw till the engine starts to stumble then unscrew a further 1/8-1/4 of a turn. Readjust idle speed back down to 850 as it most likely would have increased and repeat the last step by screwing in the mixture screw until the engine starts to run rough and stumble. Then again unscrew (richen) the mixture a further 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn.

Dan

[jdk81]

I found the 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn was hard to judge by the lack of access and poor vision on the screw, which is why I used the spray.
I found it was much easier, and found the ideal spot.

It is effectively the same thing.

[sickzuk1]

Ummm... I will try those things..
I also noticed whilst i was driving tonight that when the engine dies.. So do the head lights?
So could it possibly be an electrical problem??

[jdk81]

sickzuk1 wrote:

Ummm... I will try those things..
I also noticed whilst i was driving tonight that when the engine dies.. So do the head lights?
So could it possibly be an electrical problem??

Yes, that issue would be.
The lights will run off the battery if the engine dies.

Check the battery, terminals and wires, may be a loose earth etc.

[shep]

sounds to me like you might have a dodgy fuselink.

[sickzuk1]

Fuse Link???
As in the fuse box??

[shep]

when ya say the lights died, did they dim a bit or go off completely?

fuselink is a wire that goes from the battery to ya fuse box and they can deteriorate over time.
also you can get issues with the ignition barrel if you have to many things wired straight
from the accessory circuit.

[shep]

first thing though is to check to see if there is a clicking noise from the carby when you turn the key.

[sickzuk1]

The lights dim a bit..
Do I disconnect the battery and check if the carby clicks???

[shep]

open the bonnet and stand near the front of the car. make sure it in in neutral and the handbrake is on.
reach through the window and turn the key to the run/on position but don't turn the key to start.
if ya cant hear a click from the carby when turning the key from acc to run/on then that is your problem.

go and do that and let us know what happens, if necessary we will then go to step 2

[sickzuk1]

Ok there was definitly a click..
Step 2?

[shep]

swap the middle 2 spark plug leads around and make it back fire for a min or
so, it is important to make it go pop,pop,pop through the carby. don't stick ya head over the carby.
then swap them back.
make sure all the vacuum hoses are attached and look to be in good
cond., there are some sneaky hidden ones so look carefully then go and get some brand name (CRC, nulon etc) carby cleaner.

check back and tell us what happened. you will need the carby cleaner, even if it starts to run properly.

[sickzuk1]

Ummm I have done this.. I swapped the two centre ones and it did backfire a little bit..
But not as much as I expected?
And all the hoses are done up properly..
But still no good..
Step 3?

[shep]

there are 2 wires going into a thingo on the carby. pull it out and spray heaps
of carby cleaner into the hole and also the thing that comes out.
also at the front of the carby, hidden behind some linkages, are 2 bolt looking things.
pull 1 out and spray lots of carby cleaner into the hole. stick it back together.
try the backfiring trick again. mash the throttle to get it to pop.

if there is no difference and you are sure all the hoses are on correctly and the choke is open
then i reckon you are up for a carby reco.

[sickzuk1]

Ok well I attempted to do this.. But I could not get either of the hoses off the back of the carby...
One of the pipes has a very large bulge in it, right next to the hose clamp...
Does this mean anything in particular or is the hose just crap?
And the other hose is stuck on extremely well..
D:
Do i definitly have to spray cleaner in there??

[sickzuk1]

Ok I got it off..
It still isnt fixed...
Can someone link me to an older thread that tells me how to do the carby recondition?
And maybe even the Caby recon kit from Ebay? I cant find any.. D:

[sickzuk1]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holden-Barina-Su ... 35ac5f6010
Is that a rebuild Kit?
Will I really need it?

[steak_knife]

sickzuk1 wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Holden-Barina-Suzuki-Sierra-Swift-Aisan-Carby-Kit-/230525198352?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ac5f6010
Is that a rebuild Kit?
Will I really need it?

yes & yes..

Part of you trouble's could be a broken gasket.

[sickzuk1]

OK...
Link to how to do it?

[shep]

Vacume lines not coolant lines.
You need to take your car to a machanic.
There are lots of small parts in a carby and bits that go boing. If
You are confusing coolent and vacume lines then you have no hope
Off rebuilding your carby.

[shep]

Vacume lines not coolant lines.
You need to take your car to a machanic.
There are lots of small parts in a carby and bits that go boing. If
You are confusing coolent and vacume lines then you have no hope
Off rebuilding your carby.

[shep]

Vacume lines not coolant lines.
You need to take your car to a machanic.
There are lots of small parts in a carby and bits that go boing. If
You are confusing coolent and vacume lines then you have no hope
Off rebuilding your carby.