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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:04 am |
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G'day
i'm a bit confused with the way manual describes how to adjust valve clearance on G16a engine. there are two values: cold and hot. i thought that cold refers to situation when engine wasn't running at all and is completely cold hence different value on valves clearance(hot and cold). manual says to run the engine until it gets to its normal working temperature and than adjust the valve clearance. that means that valves are hot as the whole engine, so it's hot clearance adjustment, isn't it?.
1. can you guys tell me if i can adjust valve clearance on completely cold engine using "cold values" or i need to do it after engine gets hot?
2. should I use loctite (have only medium strength blue one) on rocker shaft retaining screws? (philips head once) when i screw in 2 new in place of missing once i've noticed that only 3 where holding the rest was loose. I fasten them to specified torque, however if i use loctite will it be possible to unscrew them in the future?
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:35 am |
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1.. cold is cold............hot is hot, after running.
2. why not.. 
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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alien
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 16343 Location: Perth
Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.
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 Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:57 am |
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cold is a more reliable adjustment... warm adjustments often require a re-adjustment later.
im pretty sure the manual states the cold temp too, its around 18 degrees i think? (ie: leave it overnight and adjust in the morning).
_________________ 
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 10:18 am |
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thanks, it is as cold as it can get now  , i haven't driven since 2 weeks
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fordem
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:30 pm Posts: 2656 Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Vehicle: APK416, A6G415, A6N415
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 Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:27 am |
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Re the loctite - the method I have seen used was to "punch lock" the screws.
If I'm not mistaken we're discussing the countersunk screws that hold the rocker arm shaft in place - you can use a centerpunch to lock the screw by placing a punch mark at the edge so half the mark is on the screw and the other half on the rocker pedestal - it distorts the metal enough that the screw will not move due to vibration, but can be removed later.
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chris_mac
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 283 Location: Sydney
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 Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:43 pm |
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fordem wrote: Re the loctite - the method I have seen used was to "punch lock" the screws.
If I'm not mistaken we're discussing the countersunk screws that hold the rocker arm shaft in place - you can use a centerpunch to lock the screw by placing a punch mark at the edge so half the mark is on the screw and the other half on the rocker pedestal - it distorts the metal enough that the screw will not move due to vibration, but can be removed later.
thanks mate, i think when someone did the head or just use punch for purpose of holding those countersunk screws, there are marks next to the screws (one or two). however i didn't stop screws to undo themselves so i will reluctantly use a bit of locktite
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steak_knife

az supporter
Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 21335 Location: Smart Ass Island
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 Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 6:01 am |
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chris_mac wrote: thanks, it is as cold as it can get now  , i haven't driven since 2 weeks
Unless you stick it the fridge..
Take the spark plug's out when you are adjusting them to, make for easier turning of the crank..
_________________ I used to be indecisive,
now I'm not so sure.....
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