[andrewa]

what is the best way to change cooling system.
i was going to drain radiator, flush radiator & refill.
how do you guys change your cooling systems?

[zuk_244]

Just drop the bottom radiator hose off at one end. Thats the easiest.

[dunnjab]

Take out bottom wing nut. Wait untill its fully flushed out then refill with water. Then run the car untill running temp, drop the water again do this about 3 times then refill with coolant.

[foonji]

[royce]

I like to pull a heater hose and run a hose through it backwards to flush the heater core and block clean, then blow as much water out as possible with air and refill

use a good chemical flush as well, this doesnt clean anything but will neutralise any left over coolant so it doesnt mix and cause trouble

[foonji]

royce wrote:

I like to pull a heater hose and run a hose through it backwards to flush the heater core and block clean, then blow as much water out as possible with air and refill

Will have to put that into action next time I do it!

[andrewa]

thanks for the replys guys. 1 other question, what coolant
do you use/reccomend.

[royce]

I use tectaloy XP7 which isnt expensive for a good product, find the best you can afford and pick something the next level up, too much alloy to skimp here

and dont ever mix coolants!!!

[xedent]

royce wrote:

I like to pull a heater hose and run a hose through it backwards to flush the heater core and block clean, then blow as much water out as possible with air and refill

use a good chemical flush as well, this doesnt clean anything but will neutralise any left over coolant so it doesnt mix and cause trouble

+1

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

I use tectaloy XP7 which isnt expensive for a good product, find the best you can afford and pick something the next level up, too much alloy to skimp here

and dont ever mix coolants!!!

X2!!!!

[whincup]

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

[royce]

whincup wrote:

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

whincup wrote:

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

Actually, coolant raises water's boiling temperature.

It stops your coolant boiling in hot weather.

[royce]

Glavas wrote:

royce wrote:

whincup wrote:

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

Actually, coolant raises water's boiling temperature.

It stops your coolant boiling in hot weather.

by about 8 degrees going on most specs, the radiator cap does a lot more

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

Glavas wrote:

royce wrote:

whincup wrote:

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

Actually, coolant raises water's boiling temperature.

It stops your coolant boiling in hot weather.

by about 8 degrees going on most specs, the radiator cap does a lot more

It's a bit more than 8 at 50/50 mix.

Worth it considering our climate though!

[royce]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

Ethylene glycol boiling point vs. concentration in water Weight Percent EG (%) Boiling Point (deg F) Boiling Point (deg C)
0 212 100
10 215 102
20 215 102
30 220 104
40 220 104
50 225 107
60 230 110
70 240 116
80 255 124
90 285 140
100 387 197

http://www.tectaloy.com/Tectaloy_Bigblue.pdf

pdf page 15

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

Ethylene glycol boiling point vs. concentration in water Weight Percent EG (%) Boiling Point (deg F) Boiling Point (deg C)
0 212 100
10 215 102
20 215 102
30 220 104
40 220 104
50 225 107
60 230 110
70 240 116
80 255 124
90 285 140
100 387 197

http://www.tectaloy.com/Tectaloy_Bigblue.pdf

pdf page 15

Nulon is 118 at 50% i believe.

EDIT: or so says they're catalogue we get at work.

[royce]

their spec charts seem a bit random listing specs on some as no pressure and others at pressure and the top line stuff they list nothing
How does their glycol behave better than glycol? its not possible

[whincup]

royce wrote:

whincup wrote:

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

is nulon crap? i kinda just figured a mid-price brand would be ok... if not, what brand is best?

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

their spec charts seem a bit random listing specs on some as no pressure and others at pressure and the top line stuff they list nothing
How does their glycol behave better than glycol? its not possible

Is the glycol pure? :S

[Glavas]

whincup wrote:

royce wrote:

whincup wrote:

i use the nulon coolant. not expensive, but ive never had an issue since using it. and X3 on never mixing. long as you flush the system thoroughly you'll be fine

coolant does nothing in most parts of aus bar prevent corrosion, the anti freeze part is pretty useless for most of us, but the effects of crap coolant take at least 100000km to show up so youll never know you are using cheap stuff till its too late

is nulon crap? i kinda just figured a mid-price brand would be ok... if not, what brand is best?

I ran nulon's top one ( can't remember the name) in a 240KW rotor. Had a track day in 45 degree heat and was fine.

[royce]

Glavas wrote:

royce wrote:

their spec charts seem a bit random listing specs on some as no pressure and others at pressure and the top line stuff they list nothing
How does their glycol behave better than glycol? its not possible

Is the glycol pure? :S

that top chart I posted is the properties of glycol, you cant make glycol better than glycol

saying it was fine in an engine at a track is just fucking stupid, dont be an idiot, its main job is to prevent corrosion, your little engine would of been fine with tap water, only difference would be 8 degrees of boiling point, wont run any hotter

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

Glavas wrote:

royce wrote:

their spec charts seem a bit random listing specs on some as no pressure and others at pressure and the top line stuff they list nothing
How does their glycol behave better than glycol? its not possible

Is the glycol pure? :S

that top chart I posted is the properties of glycol, you cant make glycol better than glycol

saying it was fine in an engine at a track is just fucking stupid, dont be an idiot, its main job is to prevent corrosion, your little engine would of been fine with tap water, only difference would be 8 degrees of boiling point, wont run any hotter

If you bothered to read, i said I ran it in a 240KW rotor.

Then said it had a track day at 45 degrees too.

I ran it for the duration of the ownership.

[royce]

yeah I read it, its an idiotic comment hence why I said you are stupid

coolant does nothing to help with the transfer of heat, its not a magical green liquid that sucks heat from your engine better and pushes it out the radiator better

it helps prevent corrosion
it reduces the point the coolant will freeze
it rasises the point the coolant will boil (by bugger all)

By saying it was some magic thing in your engine you are saying that previously your engine constantly ran so hot that it boiled all the time and you needed the extra 8 degrees to stop that?

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

yeah I read it, its an idiotic comment hence why I said you are stupid

coolant does nothing to help with the transfer of heat, its not a magical green liquid that sucks heat from your engine better and pushes it out the radiator better

it helps prevent corrosion
it reduces the point the coolant will freeze
it rasises the point the coolant will boil (by bugger all)

By saying it was some magic thing in your engine you are saying that previously your engine constantly ran so hot that it boiled all the time and you needed the extra 8 degrees to stop that?

I didn't say it was magic.

It didn't boil during 8 hours of being pushed very hard in 45 degree weather. where water probably would have judging by the water temps.

Telling someone to not worry about coolant because the boiling point improvement is not worth it is stupid.

A decent bottle of coolant costs less than $40. And is good for a long time. It's cheap insurance and peace of mind.

[royce]

you arent getting it are you



water under 11psi of pressure will boil at 117 degrees, at 55% glycol its 125 (there is that 8 degrees again) so you are saying that your thing was running at between 117 and 125 degrees all day?

I am not saying dont worry about coolant cause the boiling point increase isnt worth it, I am saying you are a fool for thinking its a major consideration, most suzukis are an alloy block, I said get he best gone damn shit you can get cause the corrosion protection needed is massive, chances are once one of these engines gets to that temp you've already stuffed something, boiling or not

[Glavas]

royce wrote:

you arent getting it are you

[imghttp://docs.engineeringtoolbox.com/documents/926/water-pressure-boiling-temperature-2.png[/img]

water under 11psi of pressure will boil at 117 degrees, at 55% glycol its 125 (there is that 8 degrees again) so you are saying that your thing was running at between 117 and 125 degrees all day?

I am not saying dont worry about coolant cause the boiling point increase isnt worth it, I am saying you are a fool for thinking its a major consideration, most suzukis are an alloy block, I said get he best gone damn shit you can get cause the corrosion protection needed is massive, chances are once one of these engines gets to that temp you've already stuffed something, boiling or not

Engine water temp peaked @ 120. Didn't maintain it all day, average over the day was 115 or so.

We both recommend he get the best he can. We're arguing about just the increase of boiling point?

In that case, whether it's worth it or not he's gonna get it!

[jdk81]

Glycol doesn't have the same thermal properties as water which means your cooling system has to work harder to transfer the heat from engine-coolant-radiator-air

Pure water will transfer the heat better (20% better over the 50/50 mix of glycol), but corrosion is the issue.

If you are finding that you need to have glycol to stop your coolant boiling, there are more sinister problems under the bonnet you need to be concerned with.

I have heard the red toyota coolant is the bees knees, anyone able to confirm this, and able to provide a price?

Lets face it, if you use demineralised water and great coolant on an engine with well maintained system, you will have years of no worries and no other cooling expenses.

[whincup]

royce wrote:

it helps prevent corrosion
it reduces the point the coolant will freeze
it rasises the point the coolant will boil (by bugger all)?

not all of them. some specifically state that they are not an anti boil/anti freeze. im about 99% sure thats what this one said...

[ajsr]

I run demineralised water and 500ml of cold cutting water soluble oil oil in my classic holden cooling systems as recommened by my engine rebuilder and a couple of mates that collect classic cars.
there is never any corrosion when things are pulled apart and they never run hot.
probably not any good for late model alloy stuff so I use a good coolant in all the late model stuff.