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Post Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:34 pm 
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Pubic wrote:
all i can say is good luck finding a bloody gearbox to suit a 4age!

if you do happen to stumble across one snap it straight up!

i must have rang 20 people today and couldnt find shit down here in sydney. :x

there was one bloke up in qld somewhere who had one for $250! would be nice if it was down here. postage was only $75 but its a lot of mucking around.

what would be nice would be if one of the guys on this site would pick it up for me and drive it all the way down here 8)

i would seriously consider looking at a gti swift motor! i still have mine and if things dont work out within a month im changing back to the original plan!


They have never been a common item and these days, as you have discovered, they are increasingly difficult to get. And think about down the track when you need to replace one... There are bellhousings available that let you bolt up other Toyota 5 speeds. A mate of mine has just got one recently, i think he's going to be running a Supra box behind his. BUT i'm pretty sure you can get one that will let you bolt a hilux box up to it. IMO that's going to be your best bet. Usually 1:1 is not a good idea in a zook but since you'll be running 'lux diffs you're golden.

If you want a bellhousing call Rolin Auto Imports on the Gold Coast and talk to Andy, he should be able to point you in the right direction.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:48 pm 
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cheers for the contact mate.

there is a place down here that do the same thing.

i have thought about the hilux diff, it would seem the cheaper option in the long run. and hey im running hilux parts the whole way through i might as well just buy one right.......... :gross: bull shit!

i'll give that guy a call tomorrow, hopefully he wont be smokin too much crack like the rest of qld at 9 in the morning.

if i cant find a t50 box soon i will have to seriously look into other oprions.

as for the future.... im sure there will be another zook in the future... onec this one has had its day i can start a new project... even bigger and more rediculous than anythng seen before! :twisted:

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 11:56 pm 
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Pubic wrote:
cheers for the contact mate.

there is a place down here that do the same thing.

i have thought about the hilux diff, it would seem the cheaper option in the long run. and hey im running hilux parts the whole way through i might as well just buy one right.......... :gross: bull shit!

i'll give that guy a call tomorrow, hopefully he wont be smokin too much crack like the rest of qld at 9 in the morning.

if i cant find a t50 box soon i will have to seriously look into other oprions.

as for the future.... im sure there will be another zook in the future... onec this one has had its day i can start a new project... even bigger and more rediculous than anythng seen before! :twisted:


I gotta play the devil's advocate here and ask, is there anything stopping you wheeling it as is?

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:08 am 
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no... apart from my 30% tread road tyres 8O

but still i hit any little track i can find no matter how small it is.

my driveway is a little steep and loose weeds/dirt so i need to use my 4wd to get up that! :roll: such a super hero i know.

i have bugger all time to play at the moment. my hours are 6 - 430 monday to friday!

but none the less any play is good play :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:18 am 
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Pubic wrote:
no... apart from my 30% tread road tyres 8O

but still i hit any little track i can find no matter how small it is.

my driveway is a little steep and loose weeds/dirt so i need to use my 4wd to get up that! :roll: such a super hero i know.

i have bugger all time to play at the moment. my hours are 6 - 430 monday to friday!

but none the less any play is good play :wink:


search out some 225/75R15 mudders and wheel it. when it stops being fun, start mods 8)

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:23 am 
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bugger it... i'll go out wit hthe tread on it at the moment and if sorry when i do get stuck i'll get a mate to drag me out.

i'll be fine i have a bad boy sticker!

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:53 pm 
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8O 8O AGAINST ALL ODDS I DID IT!!! 8O 8O

i found a supra gearbox! for $220 that comes with its tail shaft!!!

i picked it up 2 hours ago.... im absolutely pumped.

its the w50 model and apparently comes out of a pre 1983 hilux.

this one had been sitting in this guys gargae for 10 years doing SFA. all of the gears change fine and the input shaft spins beautifully!

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:18 am 
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woo hoo!!!!!!!! Good work.. gotta love that!!!

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:00 pm 
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made a couple of calls today to try and find anyone who may have some acetal to make a body lift out of.

i rand AGM engineering in emu plains and spoke with a guy called anthony.
he sold me 11 bits of 60mm dia acetal @ approx 100mm long for $20.

top bloke. 8)

if anyone from auszookers is after any im happy to pick it up and post it to you.

beats the hell out of paying $250 + for a lift! :lol:

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:45 pm 
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pic of a Sprinter Box, matched up to a 1.3L Sierra Transfer Case


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Post Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:48 pm 
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the transfer case brackets were moved back a couple inches

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 12:40 am 
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thats awesome, cheers mate.

is that what they call a jack shaft??? the 6" shaft between the box and case???


i got the tail shaft with my box. it has a spline as an output, i figured i will have to cut down the shaft and re weld it at the correct length and match the t case to the drive shaft. i'll take some more pics and post them when i get back from holidays

can someone feed my zook while im gone???

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 2:29 am 
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Pubic wrote:
can someone feed my zook while im gone???


hehe, premium or standard??

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 3:05 am 
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I just read the thread after a few bourbens so forgive me if I missed somthing.
sierra rears up front would be sweet just pull the overload and maybe add the bottom leaf out of the front pack as the rears dont hold as much weight as the front.
This will move the front forward and help balance the car and give you a better aproach angle.
You prob wont need a b/l if you are spoa. I have spoa on toys with ruf and I tried on a set of true 35" tyres and with my lowered bumpstops they just rubbed behind the headlight.
I agree with Paul keep it low as possible and use bumpstop spacing.
I have a lwb so I didnt extend the rear but if you did I think it would be very close to the tank with toy diffs.
Nik

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Post Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 11:22 pm 
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sweet.. RUF sounds the goods!!! I've noticed that the spring perches you can buy from low range off road also have 3 different holes.. so you can choose to place the diff either in neutral position, or space it forward 1", or back 1". Be sweet to get a better aproach, and also depature angles while doing this conversion!!

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:04 am 
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zookernator wrote:
sweet.. RUF sounds the goods!!! I've noticed that the spring perches you can buy from low range off road also have 3 different holes.. so you can choose to place the diff either in neutral position, or space it forward 1", or back 1". Be sweet to get a better aproach, and also depature angles while doing this conversion!!


You don't need to buy anything to do this, just drill holes in your spring perches and bottom plates. Remember, drill the holes BEHIND the stock hole to move the diff forward. I have done this on a couple of zooks and it works good to help keep 31s out of the back of the wheel well. About 20mm is as far as I have taken it.

Damo.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:36 am 
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oh yes... so buying new perches, with the 3 hole option, wont be more easier than the way you just explained?? Would i/we still have to drill new holes in the bottom plates?? Also been looking into RUF.. gotta look into that a lot more yet.. as i think that also affect's height (susp lift) etc.. going to be the goods though!! Cant wait :)

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:40 am 
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zookernator wrote:
oh yes... so buying new perches, with the 3 hole option, wont be more easier than the way you just explained?? Would i/we still have to drill new holes in the bottom plates?? Also been looking into RUF.. gotta look into that a lot more yet.. as i think that also affect's height (susp lift) etc.. going to be the goods though!! Cant wait :)


Are you doing a SPOA? That's the only reason I could see why you'd buy perches. Having said that, making them out of box steel would surely be heaps cheaper.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:49 am 
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Yup, myself and PUBIC are doing a SPOA. Pretty sure i'm correct in saying we will have to remove the perches anyway so we can change the width of them (to suit the zook), and also to rotate the diff housings slightly to help with the shaft angles??

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:37 pm 
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my lux diffs have already been converted to spoa. they already have the high steer conversion done too.

i was going to make all new mounts to try and stretch the wheel base as much as possible.

seeing that my conversion is already done i was thinking of using spring wedges to get my drive shaft angle right.

are there any problems with using spring wedges??? can they fall out easily?

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:50 pm 
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hilux diffs are spring over from factory though?

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:00 pm 
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hmmm?

my mate had to buy his high steer arm and j bracket. he might have had to get them because of his lifts???

ill look into that just for curiositys sake.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:38 pm 
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Pubic wrote:
hmmm?

my mate had to buy his high steer arm and j bracket. he might have had to get them because of his lifts???

ill look into that just for curiositys sake.

Pretty sure the only reason you need the high steer arm and j bracket, are cause zooks are meant to be SOA.. see-ing that we're making the SOA, the steering wont fit/reach. think i'm right in saying that!! Lucky you have already got it Pube.. their pretty dear buggas!!

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:14 pm 
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zookernator wrote:
Pubic wrote:
hmmm?

my mate had to buy his high steer arm and j bracket. he might have had to get them because of his lifts???

ill look into that just for curiositys sake.

Pretty sure the only reason you need the high steer arm and j bracket, are cause zooks are meant to be SOA.. see-ing that we're making the SOA, the steering wont fit/reach. think i'm right in saying that!! Lucky you have already got it Pube.. their pretty dear buggas!!

you're telling me. the 2 parts he bought cost him something like $600+.

so back to my last question.

are spring wedges ok to use??? or do they fall out with time etc?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:40 am 
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not sure mate.. hopefully someone knows???!!!! Also.. any idea what the go with adapting suzuki - toyota brakes are?? I've done a bit of searching.. havent found much yet!!

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:17 am 
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not sure about spring wedges.

what ya mean about matching the brakes? just connect the suzuki brake lines to the hilux brakes.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:03 pm 
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thats what i thought steve.. if worst came to worst, i suppose you could always install a bigger brake booster?

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:07 pm 
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a mate has hilux diffs under his lwb, he said he just connected the suzuki lines to the hilux brakes and they matched up too. he just has a normal sierra booster.

He has some weird arse long spring set up and shackle reversal, and cut his spring perches off and welded new ones on to rotate the diff a little, mainly because on major flex the diff center was creating too much angle on the pinions.

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:25 pm 
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before you go chopping and poiting and all that go and google things like how a uni works and what caster does in the front end and so on

you are safe with about 5" lift on a sierra before unis give trouble, thats spoa on hilux diffs with stock sagged springs

if you want to go higher you can look at using hilux shafts, they can operate at a higher angle

after that you are looking at big dollars and work with CV driveshafts and pointing pinions at outputs and stuff

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Post Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:25 pm 
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i want to try and steer clear from having to cut the perches, but if it has to be done then bring on the makita!!!

whats the best way of getting them lined up perfect??

i am going to make new spring mouts for the chassis to stretch the wheel base a little,

once they have been done bolt the difff in as is.

then set stands under the chassis to hold its height.

loosen off the u bolts and turn the diff until it matches at that "static chassis height"

or would it be better to adjust the angle so it would suit better under articulation?

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