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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:34 am 
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Hi
'97 Coily with 194k has a loud ticking noise from engine. I checked the vales and they seemed ok, but it is possible that I did not do the best job as I am no mechanic.

Don't know when the timing belt was last changed - could an old belt cause a ticking noise? (the car has a very good history from last owner, but i could not find evidence of the timing belt being changed although there is evedence of very regular professional maintenance.)

Oil last changed about 4000km ago

Noise started on my last trip on the freeway. Car still starts and runs fine. Noise is worst when cold or when under load at lower rpm.

I have checked timing with timing gun at it is fine.

Any ideas? Should i check valves again?
Thanks,
Jamie

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:46 am 
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I had the same sorta prob with mine , ended up pulling the head off and found a piece of the piston gettin the crap flogged out of it against the head, it was fairly loud and noticeable , just another possibility

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:47 am 
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I've known a lot of coilys suffer from piston slap like Kermy said, its certainly a possibility...

But without hearing it, its hard to diagnose ;)

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:02 am 
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Piston slap - I hope not!!!

I will take a video with sound of it and chuck it on youtube. Then link it in this thread.

Thanks guys
Jamie

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:18 am 
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I've also encountered this problem, this was the cause. Still went just used 4L/100km of oil!.
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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:29 am 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHt6IxPdU00

just took a short vid of it on my phone. Hopefully that gives a better indication of the noise.

Video is of startup and running at about 1200rmp when cold.

Thanks for help so far!!

Guess i better start looking into how to remove the head!

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:43 am 
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That's pretty nasty, mate I think you've cracked the skirt or the head of a piston, strip her down and giv her an overhaul

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:47 am 
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Removing the head is pretty easy...

I left the intake manifol on and just removed the exhaust manifold. Remove (and label) any vacuum lines and cables to the head/intake.

Fan off, fan belt off. Timing cover then belt off - MAKE SURE LINE EVERYTHING UP AND KNOW WHERE THE PULLIES ARE! This is important when you put it all back together.

Take off the rocker cover, and then undo the cylinder head bolts.

Make sure there is nothing still connecting the head to the car and lift her off!

While you've got it off put new gaskets in, and a new timing belt while the timing cover is off. Might be worth chucking a water pump in there at the same time - I didn't and then it died a few months later...

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:49 am 
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Shit.

Sounded a lot worse today when i took that video than previously. Much worse than loose valves.

Off to study the Haynes service manual......

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 2:17 am 
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Will removing the head allow me to find the problem? If it is a ring or piston skirt, won't I have to remove the whole engine then lift the block off the crank?
I have worked on motorcycles engines, but never car engines, so just trying to get my head around this. Might be over my head.

thanks

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 2:42 am 
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If you remove the head and turn it over by hand, you may be able to where the piston has been striking on the bore, assuming that it is piston slap.

It's a good start and may let you diagnose the problem without removing the engine. Or at least give you a better idea whats going on...

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 2:59 am 
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OK, thanks

Have already started.

Where is the best place to get engine parts for Sierra's??

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 5:02 am 
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could it have dropped a cylinder skirt?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:54 am 
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What motor is in it? 1298 or 1324? Best bet would be to just get a replacement motor as that noise is terminal. Dont try to fix that motor half arsed as it wont last very long. Do it properly the first time and you wont have any future dramas with it.


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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:59 am 
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Anyone know what type of socket fits the cylinder head bolts???

It is a weird nut that I have never seen before... looks like a torx nut but the torx bits are on the outside if that makes any sense.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:03 am 
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it is a 1298....why?

How much is a replacement motor?

Head is almost off, so I will know more tomorrow. Hope to be able to fix it as the car needs to be sold in the coming months to upgrade to a ute due to necessity.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:26 am 
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From memory it's a 12mm or 14mm can't remember off the top of my head sqair drive socket with 6 sides, not the sockets with 16 pissy little teeth on the inside otherwise you'll strip it, it's been a wile since I rebuilt one but you can use a normal socket even tho they are torx bolts, it works,,

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:37 am 
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its a 10mm 12 point socket

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:15 pm 
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losfer wrote:
its a 10mm 12 point socket


The cylinder head bolts are more than 10mm.... I can't remember off the top of my head but definitely 12 or 14....

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:09 pm 
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It is definately 10mm believe it or not - seems way too small for the load applied to them.
12 point socket maybe, but it definetly has little grooves on the outside like a torx.

Will let you know what they are called when i find out

thanks again
jamie

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:13 pm 
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just found an old 10mm 12 point socket. perfect fit.

Thanks losfer

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:19 pm 
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If it's too much trouble just chase another motor they are dirt cheap you can pick one up of eBay here and ther from $150 to $300 , it's cheaper than
trying to replace pistons a new head gasket and timing belt,, I've changed over one by myself in 3 1/2 hrs, but if it's you first time get mate a carton a piss on a Saturday, and set yoursel in for a good day

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Yeah i am starting to think the same.

Head is off and it all looks very normal except for a bit of movement in number 3 piston at TDC and TBC. Fair bot of play actually.

Going to rip the engine out and lift the number 3 piston. Although not convinced that is the problem as all bores are nice and smooth.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:31 pm 
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With the play I'm thinking busted skirt andYou've probably cooked the rings in no3,,, also check the cam fir any flat spots on the lobes that makes a he'll of a noise too , but in saying that gettin bore honed new pistons bearings and the head looked at ect ain't cheap if you don't kno a good mechanic that can get at cost $ on parts

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:33 pm 
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Even with a crcked skirt iv had one with the bore like new, does it have a little lip in the bore at tdc

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:12 am 
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Not really any lip to feel. There is a small amount of carbon build up.

Should have the engine out and inspected Number 3 buy this arvo.

Had a quick look on the net for complete g13ba engines, but could not find any. Once i inspect the pistons, I will know if it needs a new engine. Little point paying for all the parts / machining if i can find a complete for 500 bucks.

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:39 am 
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Exactly, it's alot of money to spend on a motor and if you diy in the shed and miss something like torquing up a con rod or a crank cap or head bold they can turn themselves inside out in no time and all that $$$ down the crappa, it's a shame you live in Sydney , I've got 4 g13a and 3 g13bs sitting in the shed in hervey bay most are swifty motors , I used to have a turbo kit and I liked me boost so it was quicker and cheaper to change a complete motor Wen I blew it than it was to fix, I've since sold the turbo kit, moved on to a 4age 20v,
try looking for a swift/barina either g13a or b , bugger all differance and change the cam over as the swifty are direct drive to the disy not angle gear drive like a sierra problem solved

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:49 am 
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Also coz you have an sj80 , they run the flat waterpump fan and alternator belt you'll have to change the timing gears to fit you harmonic balancer as ther are a 5 or 6 bolt as opposed to 4 bolts and the older g13 series use a v belt, and you'll have to also change the timing cover as your sj80 has wider timing gears that the older g13 series, I've blown and built just a couple of these, hope this helps bud

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 3:14 am 
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Haha, sounds like you have rebuilt more than a few!

Just got the engine out and piston 3 us FUCKED. Looks exactly like the pic posted by Clem430 at the top of this thread. Cannot believe the car still ran fine and blew no smoke and used no oil.

Amazingly, everything other than the piston seems to be in good shape.

Going to buy a new piston and rings then throw it all back together and sell it. Not because I dont have faith in it, I just need a ute for work so the sierra was going to go in the next few months anyway.

Thanks for all your help guys. Kermy in particular.

Cheers heaps.
Jamie

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 3:34 am 
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No worries mate, since the bore is ok , go ahead and put a new piston, rings, head gasket and timing belt, and she"ll be good to go,,,, also check
the con rod bearing on 3,, use ya plasta guage and see if it's still ok , should be able to find the correct guage/ thou, on the net can't remember of my head,, if you need any more info on any thing just PM me cheers, have fun

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