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Location: Darwin N.T

Post Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:36 pm 
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Well here is my theory, I was running Rancho RS5000's all round on my sierra now they have been a great shock good offroad and on but because the rear shocks are inboarded 45deg. they give great flex on tracks and what not but when Im on the road because the shock is only doing half the work, e.g when the springs compress say 1" the shock is only traveling half a inch the back as well as being SPOA can get quite boatish and wallow around or rock back and forth in change of road conditions. So I got some Adjustable RS9000X's for the rear and set them on '7' for the road now the rear seams to ride alot better if not feels more equal to the front, and it feels alot safer on the road now. Now I just need to test them out on super soft in Off road stuff.

Adjusters in to hopefully stop them being knocked off..........:?
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:30 pm
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Post Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:44 am 
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Hey mate , your shocks look a little close at the top , that why it feels like a boat , disconnect the rear shocks travel it fully , ramp , and then re-measure the length , did you measure them originally or just copy some one else , I have about 500 mm between mine and as you say the more angle the less the shock travels , you will probably be able to move them out a little as they will work better to dampen the ride , which will make them work harder , Cheers Paul.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:58 am 
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paul can you pelase post some picks up of yours. i will be doing something similar to mine eventually. ( im going to make a "U" channel that runs the width of the chassis that has heaps of holes the whole way across to be able to adjust to the perfect setting.)

i will be stealing my mates rancho 9000's too. they are fully adjustable like sir mud pigs. probably the same unit. his came off a hiluz with heaps of lift so it may not be that good an idea to run them in mine... will have to see.

but back to the point can you please post up some pics. all help is appreciated.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:57 am 
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Don't have close ups , take some tommorrow , I put a 100 x 50 tube , 4mm wall , drilled a series of holes , 16 mm and then made brackets for the shock mounts , Cheers Paul.


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Post Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 2:07 am 
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i got no idea what half that shit is but i need a tissue :?

thats gorgeous mate... you've done a top job

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:57 pm 
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Heres my set up.. i have no probs on road.. i run the 9000's at about 5-6, and i have leafs removed aswell (did that after this pic was taken) .. great on road, and off. There 8" apart, and i chucked the adjusters up top.. :)


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Post Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 4:51 pm 
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Urm Thanks for the pointers and pics guys, Urm correct me if Im wrong but I dont think your shocks work very well upside down dude.....?

Mart your 4by is way to shiny underneath 8O ... But seriously its very nice, I would like to know about your 'A' arm setup. The Inverting was done how a mate has done his. It also rolls around as I dont run any sway bars either. Any how I have had the 4by up a Ramp and on full up travel I got a spare inch or two its the down travel I need them for mainly. But Ill look at moving the shock mounts up top a little further out and a little higher and see how I go, Im playing around with a few other things at the moment so see what happens.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 5:58 pm 
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MUD-PIG wrote:
Urm Thanks for the pointers and pics guys, Urm correct me if Im wrong but I dont think your shocks work very well upside down dude.....?

hehe, think you might be right!! Been reading other posts on them.. and it seems that you may be right!! hehe, oops

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:35 pm 
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You say you have 2 inchs of spare up travel , move the shock out to shorten up travel and lengthen your down travel and leave the mount on the same tube , just further apart , would handle better and allow the shock to work better , Cheers Paul.

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