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Post Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 5:40 am 
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I wanted to flat belly my lwb but a body lift would be useless for the previous work i've done....

I marked out where i was going to cut, this needed to accommodate the tcase hand brake, which will be replaced by rear disconnect.

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i talked to timmay yesterday about the issue of the passengers seat rail being in the way of lifting everything up 50mm, so i cut up the original one to suit, works just as well and is now strengthened

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that is the anti spatter smoking off btw

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will be back at work tomorrow to finish up, ill be pulling my twin stick out and putting in a standard stick when i get around to it.

I will be using 3mm steel for the top section and 1.5 down the sides, the reason is i need to use thicker stuff to support the seat mount wich will go on tomorrow also, the reason things are different colours is because the monkey before me tried some rust repairs himself with a stick welder.... painted over the slag :lol:

hope this helps someone out there....

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 6:38 am 
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So this is what I'd need to do. :D Thinking along the same lines for mine.
Keep the pics coming.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:12 am 
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i think you could get away with allot less cutting... i made the hole too big me thinks....

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:15 am 
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brings back bad memories of my floor cutting nightmare.

Looks good though, good to see you still going with the mods Armsup

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:18 am 
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haha yeah im taking it slow so as to have all the right preperation so it's not super stressfull trying to weld 3 different thickness steels together...

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 6:45 am 
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finished, found some 2mm mild so i just used that instead. With both seats in it's hard to see it from a glance, two issues I've found so far, the front drive shaft rubs up against the body (hammer it out a bit) and the Low and high range sticks slot is too tight, (will cut it a little bit wider), both of these cause vibrations through the cab. i used a unimog boot from lowrangeoffroad.com and straightened the selector sticks in the tcase, now everything is just in for some fine tuning....

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:50 am 
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top job 8)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 8:14 am 
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thanks, i think all up i invested about 10hr of work and countless thinking about it :lol:

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:19 am 
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Looks shitloads better then the job I did, well done 8)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:53 am 
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At first i was like what are you doing 8O 8O
But now that it's done i like it :P good job mate 8)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 12:22 pm 
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pics from underneath?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 4:38 pm 
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cheers joe and red, fatz it looks just like this but on a lwb :lol: i don't have any pics of the chop from under neath as the tcase never came out... will grab pic's when i pull the tcase out :D

I'm going to cut the exhaust off and lift it so it doesn't rattle, then see what i can do about smoothing off the bottom of my chassis rails, the grand plan is to have a completely smooth belly as high as i can....

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:43 pm 
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8)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:06 pm 
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Nice work Josh, Now i can copy you! :P

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 7:15 am 
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Armsup now rear steer on stock axles 8)

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 7:19 am 
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31zook wrote:
Armsup now rear steer on stock axles 8)


8O

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 7:49 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
31zook wrote:
Armsup now rear steer on stock axles 8)


8O


that would require coils, which are under my shelf and a pending $800 lowrange order... ram assist, pump and chromo's....

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:18 am 
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I've had the same idea bouncing around the back of my noggin for a while too. The only thing I think i'd do differently is allowing some access to the tcase from inside. Perhaps a screwed down cover that the shift lever comes through.

Good job though, the clearance underneath is great! Now you need to smooth off that crossmember that hangs down.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:12 am 
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yeah if you built an entire cover that had a few screws it would be cool, but if you break a tcase mount and it pushes the cover off ina hurry i'de be worried..... i think im going to make the stick slot's 1 hole, this way i have a little more room to play when installing it...

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:39 am 
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31zook wrote:
Armsup now rear steer on stock axles 8)


sure you dont want hilux?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:47 am 
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i ment to see you today, yeah ill grab that off of you soonish, thanks weaver :D

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:52 am 
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31zook wrote:
i ment to see you today, yeah ill grab that off of you soonish, thanks weaver :D


i have one complete, one housing only. (thats the ones im not needing anyway :lol:)

i'll grab them on the weekend if i can get my trailer tyre fixed and emptied for you.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 4:55 am 
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woo, top bloke you got a text :)

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:41 am 
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31zook wrote:
yeah if you built an entire cover that had a few screws it would be cool, but if you break a tcase mount and it pushes the cover off ina hurry i'de be worried..... i think im going to make the stick slot's 1 hole, this way i have a little more room to play when installing it...


also help if you have to replace the transfer bush

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:50 am 
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Damo wrote:
I've had the same idea bouncing around the back of my noggin for a while too. The only thing I think i'd do differently is allowing some access to the tcase from inside. Perhaps a screwed down cover that the shift lever comes through.

Good job though, the clearance underneath is great! Now you need to smooth off that crossmember that hangs down.



LJ's have this from the factory :D . Shame Suzuki didn't continue with it, because it makes undoing the jackshaft flange bolts, and doing an oil change a breeze!

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:57 am 
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Highway-Star wrote:
Damo wrote:
I've had the same idea bouncing around the back of my noggin for a while too. The only thing I think i'd do differently is allowing some access to the tcase from inside. Perhaps a screwed down cover that the shift lever comes through.

Good job though, the clearance underneath is great! Now you need to smooth off that crossmember that hangs down.



LJ's have this from the factory :D . Shame Suzuki didn't continue with it, because it makes undoing the jackshaft flange bolts, and doing an oil change a breeze!


Yep, not to mention getting the shift lever in and out a whole lot easier.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 11:35 pm 
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seems like a lot of work to raise the gear stick 2 inches.,. :lol:

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:37 am 
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This is a job well done!

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 10:52 am 
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I took it for a drive yonks ago, and it had a huge vibrations in the cab, one because i didn't cut either of the Tcase slots wide enough, and the front drive shaft sat about 1mm off of the cab, so any bump sounded loud as :lol: so i bashed in the floor in about 30mm and cut the slots wider, then the sticks rattled, so i cut up some vacuum hose and went around the edges, then a finger of oil around it to keep it smooth and its a firm fit now. happy days :D
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ghetto welding bra :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:38 pm 
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call me stupid but what with the 2 stick?

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