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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:39 am 
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Hi all,

Just picked u a 2nd handy falcon alt. It was pretty much a bolt in affair on the g16b in my sierra using a 1.3 alternator lower bracket.

Questions:

Connections:

Which terminal is the sense and which is the charge light? I believe the sense is the terminal closest to the battery stud terminal, would like to confirm. I either get a charge light that is either always on or always off switching these terminals around :? . Regulator problem?

Output:

Im currently getting anything between 14.4 and 15V at the battery with no acessories on. Is this to be expected? Seems a tad high to me.

Dan

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:56 am 
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14.4 is pretty close to what you want.
I run the sence wire directly from the battery via a relay.
The standard wiring has a pretty big voltage drop across it and will cause your alt to charge hight and in turn cook your battery

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:54 pm 
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i was unsure also, so i just crimped connector plugs on and was lucky enough to put them on the right way the first time....

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:18 pm 
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get it tested, sounds like a buggered reg

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:57 pm 
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mine charges at that.. and works perfect... dead flat batt (as in roll start job) 2 min at idel and it will start ofthe key! (JUST)

royce i think they charge around 19volts if the reg is nackerd!

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:22 pm 
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My first one shit the reg and I found out they are 'self exciting' and will charge 15.5V max.

There are 3 steps to get the best out of these alts.
1 Fit alt (obviously :roll: )
2 Upgrade power cable between alt and battery. (130+Amp cable)
3 Fit a relay triggered by ignition and supply battery voltage to sense terminal on alt to avoid voltage drop in crappy Suzuki wiring loom.

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:01 pm 
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want33s wrote:
My first one shit the reg and I found out they are 'self exciting' and will charge 15.5V max.

There are 3 steps to get the best out of these alts.
1 Fit alt (obviously :roll: )
2 Upgrade power cable between alt and battery. (130+Amp cable)
3 Fit a relay triggered by ignition and supply battery voltage to sense terminal on alt to avoid voltage drop in crappy Suzuki wiring loom.


Yea your correct about the self exciting part. I believe she also drained my battery overnight. BASTARD!! Wonder where i can get a new reg at a descent price around brizzy.

Jas do you have a picture or can you tell me how yours is wired up regarding the sense and charge light connections?

Cheers Dan

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 3:05 am 
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to check the theory of alt draining the battery, did you put yr hand on the alternator to check if it was warm??
if you have a continous supply on the one that should be running to the charge light, it will continously put current through the field windings which will result in a flat battery and a warm alternator...

this is not really indicative of a problem with the reg or alt, just the wiring...

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 3:48 am 
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want33s wrote:
3 Fit a relay triggered by ignition and supply battery voltage to sense terminal on alt to avoid voltage drop in crappy Suzuki wiring loom.


Yep - need to do this. Which is why I haven't done it yet :roll:

Mine has always charged at 14.4-15.4V off the stock loom sense wire. Have had 3 EL alternators now (second hand one that shagged out; 2 new ones both of which run fine ... long story) that all charge in that range. Autolekky mate said don't worry too much with calcium batteries as they don't mind the higher charge voltage, and mine doesn't see daily driver duties anyway. Following want33's Step 3 should drop the charge voltage back to 14.4V max though.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 3:55 am 
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nissvit wrote:
to check the theory of alt draining the battery, did you put yr hand on the alternator to check if it was warm??
if you have a continous supply on the one that should be running to the charge light, it will continously put current through the field windings which will result in a flat battery and a warm alternator...

this is not really indicative of a problem with the reg or alt, just the wiring...


Yea mate have checked the alternator she ain't warm. The reference to a possible buggered regulator was due to the fact that either which wya the charge light and sense wires are connected to the alternator I either get the charge light on all the time or off all the time and the seemingly high charge voltage at the battery also either which way these are connected >14.8V.

MOPH, WANT33's, 31ZOOK do you mind telling us how your alts are connected as you guys seem to have working alts and charge lights so i can eliminate wiring problems. I cant find any info anywhere which simply states which pin goes where.

Cheers guys

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:31 am 
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try this one as a reference,
it is specifically for USA mitsubishi cars that use mitsubishi alternators, but the 63 amp alt referenced in this is pretty similiar to the one used in the falcons, inlcuding the same pinouts.


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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:52 am 
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mine used to have the light on more than off (apprently its common in them) and I jsut let it go till one day it blew both lightforce bulbs and a while later both headlights :) was a tad annoying

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 5:24 am 
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Will check for you tonight mate ... I can remember how absolutely frustrating it was when I was having alt probs and couldn't find a definitive answer on which pin was exciter / sense.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:00 am 
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nissvit wrote:
try this one as a reference,
it is specifically for USA mitsubishi cars that use mitsubishi alternators, but the 63 amp alt referenced in this is pretty similiar to the one used in the falcons, inlcuding the same pinouts.


Cheers nissvit, it does have the same pinouts however the falcon alts have the pins exiting from teh side of the alternator

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:01 am 
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Moph wrote:
Will check for you tonight mate ... I can remember how absolutely frustrating it was when I was having alt probs and couldn't find a definitive answer on which pin was exciter / sense.


That would help a heap mate!! Very fustrating atm not being able to find a definate simple answer

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:39 am 
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Just checked mine....
Looking at the plug on the alt when it is mounted....
Vertical pin(lower) is sense wire

Horizontal pin (upper) is light wire.

I did it by trial and error and got it wrong to start with but it didn't do any harm.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:59 am 
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Taken looking down from above driver's side headlight:

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:28 am 
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i think mine put's out like 18V what will that do? ill chuck a multi on it tomorrow, but will the battery explode or something cool?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:31 am 
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31zook wrote:
i think mine put's out like 18V what will that do? ill chuck a multi on it tomorrow, but will the battery explode or something cool?


have you ever seen that happen?? 8O

Saw a 200b bonnet ripped off it's hinge's & acid sprayed everywhere... :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:35 am 
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Batteries make some BIG bangs...

We had a T/A on site once, putting straps on a dozen big fucking 2Volt cells to get us a nice big 24 volt battery supply.... Only he put one too many straps on. BOOM!

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:36 am 
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yeah but that was because you were tripping and had a mouth full of acid... ;)

your the hulk remember? :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:37 am 
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anyone have an answer?

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:52 am 
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31zook wrote:
anyone have an answer?


It'll cook ya battery & if it's efi fry the ECU

Apart from that should be fine.. :roll:

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:04 am 
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oh, i should fix it then....

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:06 am 
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31zook wrote:
oh, i should fix it then....


Yep, car's are 12v, not 18v.. :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 11:27 am 
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Cheers Jas and moph

So to confirm, the ternimal closest to the main battery connection is the charge light and the one furthest away is the battery sense, cool.
Well for some out of the world reason she started to work this arve. Weird :?

So i think thats a win!

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:22 pm 
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steak_knife wrote:
31zook wrote:
oh, i should fix it then....


Yep, car's are 12v, not 18v.. :lol:


Just to add to that, if you're running any sort of EFI set up and the ECU doesn't do voltage correction then you'll end up with crazy Air/Fuel ratios too. This is because of the likely hood of your pumps and injectors being over driven.

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:51 pm 
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sleeperzook wrote:
steak_knife wrote:
31zook wrote:
oh, i should fix it then....


Yep, car's are 12v, not 18v.. :lol:


Just to add to that, if you're running any sort of EFI set up and the ECU doesn't do voltage correction then you'll end up with crazy Air/Fuel ratios too. This is because of the likely hood of your pumps and injectors being over driven.


Ummm no, fuel pressure is mechanically regulated and the injectors cant get any more open then they already are

interestingly, when I had a buggered one on mine, even though it blew a heap of bulbs I had no engine running dramas

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Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:07 pm 
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royce wrote:

Ummm no, fuel pressure is mechanically regulated and the injectors cant get any more open then they already are



True injectors are either open or closed but its the opening time or latency that is affected by supply voltage hence altering the overall fuel delivery. It is pretty poor practise for an ecu to not have voltage compensation.

But yea 18V!!!! Didnt you think this was slightly odd 31zook?

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 1:10 am 
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JrZook wrote:
But yea 18V!!!! Didnt you think this was slightly odd 31zook?


:lol: checked it just then and it's 14.44V

sorry guy's but last night i would have put money on that statement.... maybe i remember it being higher then normal then thought it was 18V....dunno....

so 14.44V will be fine for a TBI ecu?

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