[joeblow]

in the process of designing these blocks. will be road legal and easy to fit. will keep u informed.

[Ashley]

how much $$$$ will they be?

[Damo]

There is someone in Brissy already making these AFAIK. The guys that frequent the NBS board probably know who exactly.

[appsie]

there are a couple of kits like this,but im sure they are all as good as each other and differ slightly.I have had 2 kits off the bloke from Queensland now,Just cruisin as he is known on some forums.They are all good,easy kits and being legal makes em good too...but the question is how much????

[Hybrid]

Damo,

The other kits are something-athane or somthing-elene (got a mental blank at the moment, THE PLASTIC STUFF!) whereas Joe's are the aluminium. I remember years ago a rumour that the aluminium ones aren't accepted in QLD. Is this BS?

John

[Damo]

Hybrid wrote:

Damo,

The other kits are something-athane or somthing-elene (got a mental blank at the moment, THE PLASTIC STUFF!) whereas Joe's are the aluminium. I remember years ago a rumour that the aluminium ones aren't accepted in QLD. Is this BS?

John

No aluminium should be OK, I got an approval from Qld Trans for a 50mm body lift with aluminium blocks.

[Hybrid]

Damo wrote:

Hybrid wrote:

Damo,

The other kits are something-athane or somthing-elene (got a mental blank at the moment, THE PLASTIC STUFF!) whereas Joe's are the aluminium. I remember years ago a rumour that the aluminium ones aren't accepted in QLD. Is this BS?

John

No aluminium should be OK, I got an approval from Qld Trans for a 50mm body lift with aluminium blocks.

Cool, guess it was the usual rumour mill running. I've got some sitting at home at the moment but I'm hesitant to put them on. Waht did you cite as your reason for putting them in with qld transport?

[Damo]

Hybrid wrote:

Damo wrote:

Hybrid wrote:

Damo,

The other kits are something-athane or somthing-elene (got a mental blank at the moment, THE PLASTIC STUFF!) whereas Joe's are the aluminium. I remember years ago a rumour that the aluminium ones aren't accepted in QLD. Is this BS?

John

No aluminium should be OK, I got an approval from Qld Trans for a 50mm body lift with aluminium blocks.

Cool, guess it was the usual rumour mill running. I've got some sitting at home at the moment but I'm hesitant to put them on. Waht did you cite as your reason for putting them in with qld transport?

From memory I didn't have to put a reason as such. Maybe ground clearance?

[joeblow]

body lift blocks, if you follow dotars regulations, are to be made from a solid material ie- steel or alluminium. they pretty much won't allow other materials anymore.and if anyone is curious, ring up your local engineers and find out. always alot of rumours ruin a good project.

[just_cruizin]

Polyeruthane is a solid material that has been approved by Qld Transport and the other state authorities, some and I say some authorising engineers don't like it but that does not mean it shouldn't be used. Some ppl just don't move with the times and keep themselves up to date with current technologies, everyone has their own personal preferences.

[just_cruizin]

What are you doing for electrolysis?

The steel pin will have an internal and external thread, correct or will a bolt go up into it from underneath the chassis?

What is the purpose of the rebate in the block?

There will be a lot of machining cost associated with this thus making it hard to make a profit if you intend to sell them.

[joeblow]

does help owning your own machine shop. just an assembly drawing to show how it goes together. what price do you put on something done right?

[royce]

what is the advantage here over say a solid steel block machined the same way?

[joeblow]

steel is ok. just harder to machine and when you times it by 10 to 14 blocks it can get heavy.

[royce]

seems most of the work you are machining in the steel anyway and would save you boring the alloy and machining the steel to a machine fit?

[FUNNBOY]

how far away from putting them on the market are you??
and how much?

[joeblow]

just when i engineer vehicles every, and i mean every gram of weight counts. plus the alloy looks a shitload better and don't have to worry about corosion.

[ZukChiK]

Hi Joe,

Remember me? It's other Jo, you put a body lift in my zook & did some other work on it a while back (and no, it's still not back on the road yet)

Thought i'd ask a Q here, since its body lift related and you installed it - it's the block under drivers side:





I want to know why it has slid off in one direction about a cm, and whether anything is meant to be in place to stop it moving? (apart from Stikaflex) It only got driven on & off the trailer, and driven up a plank of wood as per my crappy avatar on here. I dare say this block will fall out the moment I take it offroad properly!!

Hope you can help

PS any chance of getting my invoice after 2 years??!!

[just_cruizin]

That is a non essential point on the chassis, your lucky Joe even supplied a block for this point, most other kits don't include it.

That fact that it has moved slightly isn't huge that would have happened during the install, the Sika will hold it there no worries.

[ZukChiK]

k, just looks a bit wrong. I'll take both of them out if it's not crucial. Cheers

[joeblow]

they are made slightly longer and just cruisin is right, most people don't supply them anyway.they wont budge, esspecially once the rest of your floor is welded back in. gooten up to that stage yet?

[ZukChiK]

joeblow wrote:

they are made slightly longer and just cruisin is right, most people don't supply them anyway.they wont budge, esspecially once the rest of your floor is welded back in. gooten up to that stage yet?

I'll get a hammer and knock it back into place then. The floor is not done yet... had um, some set backs. LOL. With any luck it will be in by the end of the year, maybe sooner. My mate who is working on it now is up to doing the wheel tubs. My 'build up' thread is here if you want to check it out: http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... &start=180

I hear you're a dad now? Congrats

[steve]

even if it's not structural it looks dodgy. I would take it out, clean it up and use the engineers glue at the bottom and top and put it back in if possible, or yeah just remove it completely. If DOT saw that up here i reckon they'd shake their head and that'd give them cause to look closer at the whole lot.

Is the actual block cut straight? if it was cut on an angle that could be the reason why it slipped sideways?

[royce]

you could put the rubber block on the top and tap it and bolt it in through the chassis mount too

[ZukChiK]

Thanks guys I'll see what I can do Argh, more tidying up work. Not sure if these blocks are solid or not to put a bolt through? Will find out I guess. If it's not a structurally important part of the lift then I'll take them out anyway. Cheers

[joeblow]

carefull with taking them out, you may find without the blocks the body may sag and or fatigue.

[ZukChiK]

joeblow wrote:

carefull with taking them out, you may find without the blocks the body may sag and or fatigue.

Ok, so these middle blocks do serve a purpose? I'm confused Why do people say they are not necessary if they contribute to holding up the body!! My thoughts would be they help support the seating area, which I think is kinda important since it cops a pounding there?

[appsie]

i have had 2 of just cruisings kits now and as said above they dont supply these blocks.what i am wondering is how much damage or chance of the floor realy sagging is there.My new ones a hardtop so got a bit of wait etc.Maybe i should knock something up and just stick in there like zukchiks????thanks

[ZukChiK]

I'm thinking maybe use poly or something softer than metal for this area since the original square rubber that's used on a stock vehicle is just that, rubber, to take up the weight & absorption?

[appsie]

yah,mite chase up some nylon or poly during the week just incase i ever throw a fair bit of wait in the back.or go flexing the car up day in day out