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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:30 pm
Posts: 892
Location: Picton, NSW
Vehicle: 105 landcruiser

Post Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 5:48 pm 
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good to see some one else using solid works Joe.


why not use a female bolt instead of threading the hardened steel insert internaly.....
its going to be really hard to keep the hollow tube from bending during quenching unless it is pre hardend then you are going to have trouble threading it

another factor is there are no flats to tighten the block up on the body mount

I used M16 socket head cap screws turned down externaly to 14 mm then tapped internaly to M10 x1.25.....

and diameter 80mm 6000 grade alloy bar 50mm long with a 14.5 mm hole up the guts

they only drilling of the zuk bits i did was the retaining washers under the bottom rubber.....

when I did the Vit the studs were about 50-60 mm long and not sure if they were threaded right to the body. so you might have to cut them and thread them.........
cheers
~Steve~

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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 10:30 pm
Posts: 1941
Location: Darwin N.T

Post Posted: Thu May 22, 2008 9:48 pm 
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ZukChiK wrote:
I'm thinking maybe use poly or something softer than metal for this area since the original square rubber that's used on a stock vehicle is just that, rubber, to take up the weight & absorption?


Hey thought I would add my 2c on the lift Ive got a support bar that runs the rear of the floor pan just behind the seats and a extra two polyurethane blocks underneath the Sierra roughly where the front of your seat would be, and just under the foot well. My last Sierra the floor pan almost fell apart down the tunnel section it had major cracks and the floor sagged away because of no support, both due to extreme fatigue after the body and a little rust did not help either. The ployurethane blocks are just stuck on using a black silicon and so far have not fallen out over the last 2 years. You can also get various size tube from your CBC bearings guys I have ordered a meter before and just cut them down into various sizes I need, then if need be you can drill them out for a bolt down the middle for none structural and support areas.

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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:30 pm
Posts: 3
Location: victoria (north)

Post Posted: Mon May 26, 2008 11:58 pm 
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hey there im interested in a set, whats the cost mate and also what side of melb are you located

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lifes pretty straight without a 4WD!

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Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 11:30 pm
Posts: 2867
Location: here

Post Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 4:11 pm 
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From the National Code of Practice NCOP11 Section LS Suspension and steering 3 Feb 2006 page 63 as used by Vic Roads

Quote:
Body Blocks
Body blocks between the vehicle body and the chassis must comply with the following:

Material must be of similar strength and durability as the original components;

All assemblies and piping that spans between the body and the chassis must be suitable for the increased distance;

The increase in height from these blocks must be less than 51mm.


and here's the link

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _ncop.aspx

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greenzook89 wrote:
31zook wrote:
Makes me want something similar

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