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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:27 am 
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These are my last major things I wanna get done before I go for a putt putt across oz. I can't do myself - I don't have the right ools and AC makes things a bit difficult.

What sorta cost you reckon a mechanic will hit me to sort out bearings in all four corners and a timing belt replacement?

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 12:07 pm 
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My guestimate would be at least $700

I'm looking at changing the timing belt in mine very soon which you can do with a socket set, an air compressor and rattle gun would come in handy to take off 1 - 2 big bolts but you don't need one.

when you do the timing belt it's not necessary but a wise idea to change the water pump, thermostat, belts and radiator hoses, The radiator has to come out so might as well replace those items while it's easily accessable. And don't forget the cost of new coolant.

I recieved a timing belt kit and waterpump yesterday, the kit includes a new tensioner and cam seal, So keep in mind unless you do a half arsed job, it's not just the timing belt that needs to be replaced.

As for the bearings, I'll get over that bridge when I get to it. But I do know you need a special tool and a press or vice to remove them and again, might as well replace perishable items like seals or brakes while it's all apart. I was thinking of pulling it all apart and just taking the hub down to my mechanic to press out the old and put in the new bearings, Hopefully he'll only charge me about $20.

At the end of the day by doing it yourself, You will get frustrated, probably crack the shits, smack you head on something but after the job is done you will get that fuzzy feeling inside saying yeah I did that, you might learn something along the way and you'd save enough money to waste on more important things, like porn.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 12:46 pm 
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What one or two big bolts would that be?

If I recall correctly all you need to change the timing belt are 10 & 12 mm wrenches, or, preferably sockets - change the belt & the tensioner pulley, and if you feel like it, the water pump, but if the cam & crank seals aren't leaking, them leave them alone.

If you're going to pay someone else to do it, then by all means go ahead & change the lot, rather than pay twice - but I can (and have) changed both the belt & the pump separately, in my driveway, with nothing other than hand tools, and for what it costs in parts and time, I really don't see the need to do it all at the same time.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 1:28 pm 
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Hmmm... just going from the Haynes manual, they rate a timing belt change 4 wrenches out of 5 in difficulty (worse with A/C installed like me), at best I have 3/5 wrenching skills :cry:

Having bought the car w/ 210K on the clock and now at 230K, i'm well past the service schedule, as I don't think the timing belt would've been sorted at 200K as recommended.

I can do the thermo, water pump and hoses etc myself, not sure about wheel bearings yet. Are there any signs to look for that the bearings are on the way out, or are they something you deal with once they pack it in?



PS merry xmas zookers :P ain't seen Santa yet, but i'm a bit pissed so he'd just be a blur anyway

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 1:31 pm 
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buzbox wrote:
I was thinking of pulling it all apart and just taking the hub down to my mechanic to press out the old and put in the new bearings, Hopefully he'll only charge me about $20


i did the same thing when i blew my rear diff back in june. took the rear axles into a mechanic to change the wheel bearings, and replace the brake shoes and cylinders while it was apart. i took all the bearings and brake parts to him, and he only charged something like $120 all up in labour, i think.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 1:46 pm 
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whincup wrote:
buzbox wrote:
I was thinking of pulling it all apart and just taking the hub down to my mechanic to press out the old and put in the new bearings, Hopefully he'll only charge me about $20


i did the same thing when i blew my rear diff back in june. took the rear axles into a mechanic to change the wheel bearings, and replace the brake shoes and cylinders while it was apart. i took all the bearings and brake parts to him, and he only charged something like $120 all up in labour, i think.


plenty of pics here.. and $120 for 5 miutes work with a bearing press taking them off n putting them on.. they seen you coming!!

cost me a 6 pack only because I didnt have the right diameter pipe to smack them back down the axle..

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... t=bearings

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:34 pm 
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fordem wrote:
What one or two big bolts would that be?

If I recall correctly all you need to change the timing belt are 10 & 12 mm wrenches, or, preferably sockets - change the belt & the tensioner pulley, and if you feel like it, the water pump, but if the cam & crank seals aren't leaking, them leave them alone.

If you're going to pay someone else to do it, then by all means go ahead & change the lot, rather than pay twice - but I can (and have) changed both the belt & the pump separately, in my driveway, with nothing other than hand tools, and for what it costs in parts and time, I really don't see the need to do it all at the same time.


Dunno about where your from but youll never get 200,000km out of a cam or crank seal here so its stupid not to replace 2 $5 parts

youll pay more than the cars worth to have all that replaced by a mechanic, I wouldnt do the bearings unless they are noisy

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:25 pm 
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Guyana, South America - and I have run a Suzuki G13 to more than 200,000K on the original crank & cam seals. The engine has since been rebuilt because of worn bores and the resulting low compression & power, but if it weren't for that, I'd still be running it on those seals.

It's not so much the cost of the parts as the potential for problems when you pull the crank gear to replace the seal - a lot of people create problems for themselves and end up with leaking seals, when they had none before.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:03 pm 
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fordem wrote:
Guyana, South America - and I have run a Suzuki G13 to more than 200,000K on the original crank & cam seals.


did you own the car for the full 200,000k???

where do you live is brisbane che??

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:27 pm 
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89_tintop wrote:
did you own the car for the full 200,000k???


Since you ask - no - only the last 199,950 km or thereabouts, why, does that make a difference? Do you think the previous owner might have been changed the seals in the first 50km?

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:28 pm 
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I'm living in Alderley until the mid of Jan (in the process of wrapping up a business, major PITA), then i'll be based outta Palm Beach on the goldy until mid Feb i'd say.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:39 pm 
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foredom - just curious as 200,000 out of a set of seals is, well fucking good, thats all. was just interested if you had owned it for the whole time.

can help you do the belt, seals and that when you move to the goldy if you want.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:25 pm 
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89, I love you :) If you're willing to help i'd be more than grateful.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:34 pm 
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can help you do the belt mate but not the bearings.. are they noisey? or you just want to change em for peace of mind?

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:39 pm 
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Front wheel bearings won't require anything special other than a 50mm socket and regular spanners/sockets, no press or grinding required. Do all the seals at the same time (swivel, inner axle etc) in your driveway.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:42 pm 
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Yeah thinking of changing bearings just as precaution. But might hold off on that, there's no noise at all from any corner - i'll get some spares for the kitty though, just in case

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