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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:02 am 
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I'm replacing the timing belt, water pump and front seal, but I need to do some theory before practice, I have an idea on what to do but I'm just after some tips or things to look out for.

Can someone post up a few pages including a diagram out of the Gregories manual or something that may help me out.

Cheers,

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:15 am 
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I have a manual you can borrow, it's in Canberra. So depending on where you are in nsw.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:21 am 
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this site has been a great help for me so far http://www.suzukiinfo.com/
hope it serves the same justice for you

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:35 am 
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I'm near Wollongong, about a 4 hour drive. Mind dropping in? :lol:

That site has what I want but It won't let me view or save it.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:35 am 
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mate i have done it twice, 1st time took me a day and a half second time took 3 hrs. it sounds like a big job but its not really, if u can undo bolts then u will be fine.

the time consuming part is just removing and refitting all the gear, its also worth replacing the belts if they havent been done for a while. when u get to the stage where u ready to take the belt off, u will see a little grove/indent in the rocker cover this needs to line up with "E" on the camshaft (top gear) as seen here http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... iming+belt

you will need to rotate the engine at some point in time, either to get the E to line up or at the end, use the crankshaft bolt to do this, make sure u rotate it the correct direction, im pretty sure its clockwise but double check. once you have the belt on, you need to rotate the engine at least twice. this will allow for the tensioner to gain correct tension and to check that the belt will not walk forward.

once it has been rotated, tightened up and you think ur ready to start putting things back on. get someone to start it for you and just check that the belt isnt going to walk. (mine walked the first time and made a horrible noise, i left it like this for about 6-9 months lol) just make sure that they turn the engine off before the belt walks to far and slips off...would equal major internal damage( pistons hit valves)

once its all good and not walking, start the installation process.
ask heaps of questions as i did when i did mine, if ya still not sure get a mate (mechanic or similar to come assist, like i did)

hope this helps a little bit.
Mitch

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:37 am 
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If I was going to drop in I would show you how to do it.
If you can't find what you want by tomorrow, I will try take some photos.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:58 am 
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buzbox wrote:
I'm near Wollongong, about a 4 hour drive. Mind dropping in? :lol:

That site has what I want but It won't let me view or save it.


cant save it unfortunately however give it time and it should load up (possibly a large file)

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:06 pm 
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Is the recommended timing belt replacement period for the jimny g13 100thousand or 130 thousand k's?

(I think mine was replaced just before i bought the car, it had done 127000km then. Mines just rolled over 200kkm but it would be nice if i didnt have to do it until 260 because by then dont think a timing belt will be the issue.)

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 12:54 am 
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The crank pulley has to come off doesn't it?

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:12 am 
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Some tips in here too.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:26 am 
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thanks for that, I'm trying to get the cam cover off at the moment, but my rattle gun doesn't fit in to get the crank bolt out. I might try the old put the breaker bar on the bolt and turn the key trick

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:30 am 
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buzbox wrote:
The crank pulley has to come off doesn't it?


yeah it does, its held on by 5x 10-12mm bolts. when u put it back on, try do it in a star pattern as it will be wobbly other wise.

if ya need anything just ask.
Mitch

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:40 am 
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And the good old breaker bar and turn the key trick works again :D
Nowfor the other ones.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 1:44 am 
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buzbox wrote:
It's just one big bolt in the middle, I think your talking about the water pump / fan bit

And the good old breaker bar and turn the key trick works again :D

Now I gotta try and find something to pull off the bloody harmonic balancer..


im pretty sure thats the crankshaft bolt, you dont need to remove that. only when doing the seal or something (never done it, so not sure) but for timing belt it DOESNT NEED TO COME OFF!

im talking about the crank pulley, on the outside of the cover. that is held on by 5 bolts, the waterpump is higher.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:01 am 
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ahh yep.. gotcha, i had to grab a mirror to check it out properly.. doh..

and yeah they're 8mm bolts, lucky me I don't have an 8mm socket, off to the shops I guess.. :oops:

oh do you know if I'd need a puller? or does it just pop off?

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:19 am 
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buzbox wrote:
ahh yep.. gotcha, i had to grab a mirror to check it out properly.. doh..

and yeah they're 8mm bolts, lucky me I don't have an 8mm socket, off to the shops I guess.. :oops:

oh do you know if I'd need a puller? or does it just pop off?


nope should just come off, its got a little key thing to line it up. its only being held on by the bolts. oh sorry 8mm.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:25 am 
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I should do the front main seal while it's all apart, after all I have it sitting here. But I can't find my bloody 3 jaw gear puller.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:29 am 
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sometimes they will slide off by hand, sometimes you take the big bolt off and bolt the fanbelt pulley back on and you can use that to wiggle it off, sometimes (especially if I was the last dickhead to pull it apart) it will be glued on tight and you need a puller to get it off :)

worth doing the seal if you dont know how old it is though

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:34 am 
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OK cool, finally 1/2 way done. The belt doesn't look tooo bad but Now for this water pump and seal remove and replacement.

Thanks for your help so far guy's.

Image

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:37 am 
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if you can see the ribs in the back of the belt its stuffed

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:40 am 
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royce wrote:
if you can see the ribs in the back of the belt its stuffed


x2
why did u remove ur rad? unless ur replacing all the hoses ect then it kind of seems like a bit of wasted time and effort??

looks good, how long has it taken u so far?

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:49 am 
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A bit easier to work with when there's more room in the bay, and yeah the hoses need replacing too the bottom lower one is shagged the other's arn't too bad but I'll replace the lot while it's out. I might pull out the alternator, It's all covered in crap and it wouldn't hurt to service it.

I've started off wit changing the gear and diff oils had a few smoko's, lunch, typing and researching on here as I go and a couple of trips down to super cheap so It's taken me a while :lol:
Each time I go down to super cheap I get stuck there for at least 1/2 an hour talking to the team and having a smoke with the manager.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 10:44 pm 
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OK I've got most of the work done now, But I can't see to take off the the crank sprocket to replace the front main seal. any tips?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 6:15 am 
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buzbox wrote:
OK I've got most of the work done now, But I can't see to take off the the crank sprocket to replace the front main seal. any tips?


hmm i havnt done that seal, can u not pry it off? maybe try with two screwdrivers or something??

just looked at when this was posted, you prob have fixed it already. howd u go?

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:01 am 
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buzbox wrote:
OK I've got most of the work done now, But I can't see to take off the the crank sprocket to replace the front main seal. any tips?


Put the belt back on* & stick it in 5th....big bar on a breaker bar & sharp pull's on it....

* with cam timing right.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:48 am 
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I manages to get the bolt off, good old breaker bar and turn the key trick, but the sprocket itself is a pain to get off. Apparently it should just slide off.

I've doused it in WD40 and tried to pry it off, I've put the pulley half way on and tried to wedge a screwdriver in between and I've hit it with the small as well as the big hammer and it still won't budge. I was cracking the shits and started thinking of taking it down to the mechanic to do it but that'll cost money.

I was going to put it all back together but that seal really needs replacing so It's still pulled apart in case If anyone has any bright ideas, I'll give it another crack in the morning otherwise I'll just put it back together.

But in the meantime I've replaced the water pump, tensioner, thermostat radiator hoses and pulled out the alternator to give it a clean and service.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:51 am 
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I made a puller from a brake caliper spreader but i'm rough :)

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:16 am 
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hmm that might work, how'd you do it, I'm thinking drill a couple of holes for the pulley bolts, bolt it on and then wind the handle.. right?

I should get myself a new gear puller, I gave mine away a few years ago thinking I won't need it again :oops:

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:20 am 
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http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... &start=210

has a pic on that page, but your on the money..
Any load you can put on it in the direction of off help's, but don't pull the thread out of the pully..

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:23 am 
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buzbox wrote:
hmm that might work, how'd you do it, I'm thinking drill a couple of holes for the pulley bolts, bolt it on and then wind the handle.. right?

I should get myself a new gear puller, I gave mine away a few years ago thinking I won't need it again :oops:


yep, dont kill the thread in teh crank though, I used a skateboard bearing as a spacer :)

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