[Fatzook]

Would you say that the upper mounts are directly above the diff? or slightly forward/ rearward?

[Teracis]

Fatzook wrote:

Would you say that the upper mounts are directly above the diff? or slightly forward/ rearward?

Without measuring, I'd say the top mounts around 40-50mm rearward from the centre of the axle tube and that the bottom mounts are probably close to this much rearward of the top mounts (maybe a little less say 20-30mm)

[Fatzook]

Ok then. They are gonna haved to me moved forward about 100-120mm to mount them infront of the diff. Thats a fair distance.

Have you considered doind a U-bolt flip?

By doing this your sandwich plates can be re-used on the top of the axle, and you remove the hangy bits from underneath at the same time giving you better clearance.

You would need new U-bolts though...

[Teracis]

Fatzook wrote:

Ok then. They are gonna haved to me moved forward about 100-120mm to mount them infront of the diff. Thats a fair distance.

Have you considered doind a U-bolt flip?

By doing this your sandwich plates can be re-used on the top of the axle, and you remove the hangy bits from underneath at the same time giving you better clearance.

You would need new U-bolts though...

I would prefer to do that but was unaware it was an option (spua) although I guess you just put some kind of plate under the spring so that the U bolts have something to hang onto?

Also, if I did move the shocks to the front (and I realise the top mounts would need to move a long way forward) I'd need longer brake lines (which I think I should put on there anyway, they nearly broke off when we put the chassis on stands and let the wheels back down.

EDIT: This would also be bloody good to do on the front to get rid of something else that can catch on stuff!

[Fatzook]

U-bolt flip.

[Moph]

Haven't read the entire thread sorry so apologies if I've missed anything ... but I had EXACTLY the same damage on my new shocks as Teracis posted up top.

Solution was simply (1) cut the dust caps off and (2) cut up an old nylothane bush and space the shocks out 3mm on the bottom mounts.

Haven't hit them again since, and my diff is about 3/4" back from stock.

[Teracis]

Hey good idea Fatzook, I didn't think about square U bolts around the springs!

Also Moph, I think you suggested that to me once before (when I asked about this originally) only problem is I don't really want to take to the shocks with a grinder (or mount them upside down) I want to be able to run any shock I decide/whatever should fit normally.


I'll look into this solution. It seems like it'd be quite beneficial for clearance as well. No doubt I'm going to need the bar at the top anyway so I can lay the shocks toward the centre because I'll be lifting the lower shock mount (and therefore it'd compress my shocks more if I don't)

[alien]

you know, you might be able to cut off the current pins on the top x-member, make and weld on new pins that are say, 100mm longer, and put a decent gusset or two on... this would avoid a new x-member and allow you to run the shocks in front with minimal fabrication.

[Teracis]

alien wrote:

you know, you might be able to cut off the current pins on the top x-member, make and weld on new pins that are say, 100mm longer, and put a decent gusset or two on... this would avoid a new x-member and allow you to run the shocks in front with minimal fabrication.

Another good idea, I'll put them all to my old boy (the fabricator ) thisavo!

I'm liking the U bolt flip at the moment, as it would get the shocks out of the way, and maybe even a combined U bolt flip and front mount shocks? That would allow for longer travel (down) with the same length shocks and get them up out of the road of the tank + axle all while removing the dangling bits from below the axle!

Thanks for the ideas lads!

[Teracis]

UPDATE

Just drove into my driveway and heard a metal on metal sound, so I thought I should have a look under and see how the shocks are holding up (haven't modded it yet) and I looked closer because one of the brake lines didn't seem to be in the right spot.

Friggin shock on the rear right has hit the brake line and mangled it. It's not broken just bent to the shithouse (I assume unrepairable but I'm not trying it today)
Is there anywhere to get a new brake line? I'm guessing wreckers or something as they are pretty long and don't like to be bent...

EDIT: It's the bottom brake line on the right hand side (where it attaches to the axle) and it is actually the left rear brake line (that runs all the way over to the left side of the vehicle.

Think I'm going to have to put up a wtb and see what comes up, didn't want to have to do this suspension modding so soon but looks like I'll have to now.

[skyman]

Before you go much farther, take the shock off the bottom mount, and let it hang. See where it wants to sit when it is hanging on it;s own weight. That will give you an idea of how far forward (if at all ) the top mount needs to move.

You can also tie a plumb bob (pointed weight on the end of a string) to the top mount and let it hang down to the axle. This way you can see exactly where it sits compared to the bottom.

I had the same problem, first it fouled on the tank skid, so I removed it, then it fouled on the tank, and then the axle. I ran my shocks upside down for a while but they didn't work well at all.

It was worse on the right (fuel tank) side of the rig.

They way my axles sits, I will not have to move the top mount. Just move the shock mounts to the front of the axle tube and they will be close enough to vertical for me.


**
What you can do is take a 1"x1" square tube and slide it in between the frame on body, laying on top of the frame. You will find the square tube fits perfect in between the frame and body there. Put some bolts through the tube for shock mounts where you want them, and have a shop weld the tube to the top of the frame.

That would be a really simple cheap solution, and a shop should not charge much to weld a couple of tabs to the end of a tube and then to the frame.

I hope that makes sense. If not I can grab some pictures of a setup I was going to install this spring.

[skyman]

Here. This is what I have. Slide this square bar on top of the frame in between the frame and body, the same way the stock upper shock mount goes. T

hose two tabs on the end are what gets welded to the frame. Or, the fancy cardboard template in pic 3

Ignore the two tabs I have up there with holes in them, as you said you did not want to weld. The last pictures shows the type of bolt to use to put through the square tube for your upper shock mount.

If I don't make any sens and sound kinda crazy... well let me know and I'll try to explain better.

[maloo11]

I have the exact same problem with the Ironman shocks. Do people running the commodore shocks have any mounting problems? Which model commodore shocks fit the Sierra (2in lift)

[Ben_Sierra]

maloo11 wrote:

I have the exact same problem with the Ironman shocks. Do people running the commodore shocks have any mounting problems? Which model commodore shocks fit the Sierra (2in lift)

Teracis' problem has nothing to do with which shocks he's running, its to do with the position that his springs have put his diff in...

[atari4x4]

you should have cut the stone guard off the shock when suggested

[Teracis]

atari4x4 wrote:

you should have cut the stone guard off the shock when suggested

Damn straight I should have taken to that shit with the grinder!

Meanwhile, I didn't install the springs and move the diff back so it's a problem I inherited and am going to have to fix...

Thanks skyman for all the tips, I can fab it all myself, I already have a plan as detailed in the thread, I'm pretty sure I'll do it in two stages though. First will be to fab the top mount and weld it on forward of where the lower mounts will be. Then spin the lower mounts and swap sides so they face forward.

Second I'll decide whether or not to do a u-bolt flip and put the lower mounts on top of the axle tube, this would require the shocks to be laid over though as I'd be moving the lower mounts up about 100mm.

[JrZook]

Teracis wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

you should have cut the stone guard off the shock when suggested

Damn straight I should have taken to that shit with the grinder!

Meanwhile, I didn't install the springs and move the diff back so it's a problem I inherited and am going to have to fix...

Thanks skyman for all the tips, I can fab it all myself, I already have a plan as detailed in the thread, I'm pretty sure I'll do it in two stages though. First will be to fab the top mount and weld it on forward of where the lower mounts will be. Then spin the lower mounts and swap sides so they face forward.

Second I'll decide whether or not to do a u-bolt flip and put the lower mounts on top of the axle tube, this would require the shocks to be laid over though as I'd be moving the lower mounts up about 100mm.

Why didnt you just take the brake lines of that mount and flatten or cut it off. I did! There was no way I was going to see my konis get raped by it!

[Teracis]

JrZook wrote:

Teracis wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

you should have cut the stone guard off the shock when suggested

Damn straight I should have taken to that shit with the grinder!

Meanwhile, I didn't install the springs and move the diff back so it's a problem I inherited and am going to have to fix...

Thanks skyman for all the tips, I can fab it all myself, I already have a plan as detailed in the thread, I'm pretty sure I'll do it in two stages though. First will be to fab the top mount and weld it on forward of where the lower mounts will be. Then spin the lower mounts and swap sides so they face forward.

Second I'll decide whether or not to do a u-bolt flip and put the lower mounts on top of the axle tube, this would require the shocks to be laid over though as I'd be moving the lower mounts up about 100mm.

Why didnt you just take the brake lines of that mount and flatten or cut it off. I did! There was no way I was going to see my konis get raped by it!

Holy crap good idea batman!

Reason I didn't do it is because it was already damaged before I found it to be a problem... I'm going to try and do this soon, I've been wheeling recently and it hasn't done any more damage so should be okay.

[Gwagensteve]

I regularly build cars with the rear shocks in the front of the axle. I do it because of clearance issues between a Vitara EFI tank and the large diameter shocks I prefer. (OME N76's)

Here's some photos of how I do it:







note that these shocks are FAR longer than stock and need to some through the floor of the car, even with a 2" body lift.

Thing is I don't think there's any point in you doing it - even though the U bolt swap is straightforward, building a shock mount won't be. The Chassis is narrowing at that point, the exhaust is likely to require modification, and some welding skill will be required.


Move the hard line, move the brake clip, move the shock back a bit at the U bolt plate by welding in a longer stud, cut the hoods off the shocks... of these are far less work.

Steve.

[SierraDan]

Fuck, just checked my brand new Rancho's. All fucked up. This is bull shit

[Teracis]

SierraDan wrote:

Fuck, just checked my brand new Rancho's. All fucked up. This is bull shit

Ouch, at least mine are just what the last guy put in it (Iron Man stuff though so pretty good) so it's not that bad.

What are the rancho's worth?

Also, there's a few suggestions in here, I haven't tried any yet, planning on moving them in front of the diff.

[mr_ron]

What Rancho's do you run? I run the 9000xl's on sagged 2" lifted springs and I dont have any marks on mine?

just thinking out loud but if you were to move the diff back on the springs would this help?

something like these?
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2448/.f

Ron

[Teracis]

mr_ron wrote:

What Rancho's do you run? I run the 9000xl's on sagged 2" lifted springs and I dont have any marks on mine?

just thinking out loud but if you were to move the diff back on the springs would this help?

something like these?
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2448/.f

Ron

The whole reason they get damaged is because the diff is moved back on the springs and instead of the shocks sitting like this | they lay backward like this / and cop damage from the axle!

[mr_ron]

Quote:

These precision relocation pads allow you to easily move your axle forward or backward.

Will these move your axel forward enough to eliminate the problem?

[Teracis]

mr_ron wrote:

Quote:

These precision relocation pads allow you to easily move your axle forward or backward.

Will these move your axel forward enough to eliminate the problem?

They would, I should have said in my last post, but since everyone around the place does their best to increase the wheelbase by every little bit and that it's probably best to leave the axle/diff in the correct place on the spring, I was going to move the shocks in front.

Just a bit of work to do it that's all.

[mr_ron]

what size tyre are you running?

again thinking out loud: (correct me if I'm wrong) I thought people move the axel back to gain clearance from the wheel arch and for improved diff location?

[Teracis]

mr_ron wrote:

what size tyre are you running?

again thinking out loud: (correct me if I'm wrong) I thought people move the axel back to gain clearance from the wheel arch and for improved diff location?

29's that were on it when I got it, I'll move up to 31's when I need new tyres though now that I've got 6.5 reduction gears.

[SierraDan]

mr_ron wrote:

What Rancho's do you run? I run the 9000xl's on sagged 2" lifted springs and I dont have any marks on mine?

just thinking out loud but if you were to move the diff back on the springs would this help?

something like these?
http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2448/.f

Ron

I have the 9000xls. It's nowhere near as bad as the OPs but I have had them in for less than a week and there are some dints in it now. I'm cutting those tabs off.

[ajsr]

I had the same problem on mine ages ago, I can't remember exactly how I fixed it (and I'm not upto crawling under at the moment) but Im pretty sure i just spaced out the base of the shock 1/4 inch or so amd lock tighted the nut in place
hope that helps