[jdk81]

Theres no pics, im lazy.

The conversion is so easy, and im so lazy there isnt an depth write up.
I used a 16a with 16v pistons as it was what I got on the cheap.

I sourced a lot of bits and pieces from pickapart type places.
(a low km g13 head, g16 bottom end and extra bits can be sourced and compiled into one engine, Also a great time to acquire multirib pulleys for alt conversions, 110A alt, and g16 starter motor.
The entire motor package can be purchased cheaply, which also come with an extra 3 month warranty. If you are really lucky, sometimes there are specials and engines are half price.
This strip and meld before paying is probably not what pickapart places want you to do, but it is not breaking any rules.
Another benefit of pulling the head off is seeing the condition of things.

The hardest past was tuning the carby - 105 (1.05mm) jet in primary (currently the seirra secondary jet) and 142 (1.42mm) in secondary will be close to max power at all throttle positions.
The carby needs to tuned correctly, slightly rich is better than lean. Overly lean can lead to overheating, preignition and engines dieing.


Gear required

g13 head, manifolds etc
g16 (a or b) bottom end - 16v pistons are useful, as you can put a 16v head on later if you wish

g16a water pump
g16a timing cover
g16a timing belt
g16a tensioner bracket
g13 head gasket
BenT adapter
some small heater hose

Modifications required
oil pick up
1.3 sump
starter motor (griding so it fits)
clutch bracket
carby tune - check aisin carbs at pick a parts

Drain the coolant, and oil etc and pull the radiator, starter motor, head with manifolds attached etc.. pretty self explanatory.
Pull the 1.3 bottom end.

- Remove the 1.3 sump, cut the rear section of the baffling out (I removed a semi circle of baffling around the large hole for the oil pick up).

- Modified oil pick up.

- Attached Bent kit.

Straight swap over stuff

- Clutch and flywheel from 1.3
- Harmonic balancer and crank timing pulley from the 1.3 on the 1.6.
Clutch
- 1.3 water inlet pipe
- Install 1.6 with head off

while the head is off

- fit starter motor

Install head using g13 head gasket

install the rest.. its that easy.

Why put the 1.6 with 1.3 head?
If you use 1.6v pistons it is a halfway point to 1.6 mpfi, but a heap cheaper. and still very driveable. If it has enough poke, I will be less inclined to go mpfi.
It doesnt have the same top end power as the g16a, but produces more torque.

I haven't found top speed, and have found I can save a lot of time.
Fuel consumption is similar, unless really pushing it.

Currently with the 105 and 142 jets, I can achieve loss of driving priveledges.
After tuning the idle, and idle mixture to factory specs, I have found I am at max power at both partial load and WOT.
Ideally the partial load should be closer to stoich and WOT at max power.

I have sourced a good selection of jets and will play with them tomorrow to achieve the ratios I want.
The 105 (1.05mm) primary seems a little rich. To lean partial load conditions, I will try the 100 (1mm) and 103 (1.03mm) to see what gets me closest to stoich (when egr is activated).
This means the 142 (1.42mm) in the secondary will not be enough to achieve the desired fuel ratio for max power. I would guess 150 (1.5mm) will get me close.
If 100 (1mm) primary and 150 (1.5mm) secondary gets me the ratios I want, I will then measure commonly available drill bits, to see if their 1mm and 1.5mm will let ppl do this and rejet their carbies on the cheap.

[Che]

My base is a 90 Sierra. Are extractors/exhaust from a 1.3L compatible with either an 8v or 16v 1.6?

If running a carby, can you still keep the stock air intake setup?

[atari4x4]

i see jonno_racing hasn't voted yet.... "I love gti engines and cock 0% 0% [ 0 ]"

[Fatzook]

G16 MPFI. Carbys suck! ( non pun intended )

[jdk81]

che_guitarra wrote:

My base is a 90 Sierra. Are extractors/exhaust from a 1.3L compatible with either an 8v or 16v 1.6?

If running a carby, can you still keep the stock air intake setup?

I dont believe so.
the stock air intake all stays the same.

[steak_knife]

Extractor's from a 1.3 will bolt up to a 8v 1.6..

[rob45x]

Just stumbled on this thread. Really old but how did ya go?

[2stroker]

This was one of those ideas that died a natural death when people realised that fitting a less efficient cylinder head to an engine is not good practice.

The practice was made popular by a fella that was selling rebuilt 1600 blocks and encouraging people to fit their 1300 heads claiming a compression advantage. In reality the combustion chambers are the same do there is no raised compression. The disadvantage in fitting the 1300 head is that the 1600 head has larger valves and ports and flows a lot better.

[Rhinoman]

Less airflow = lower torque. In the US they reckon that the 1.3 head and carb gives better low end throttle response for rock crawling but I reckon its a waste of a 1.6 block.

[fordem]

No comments on the 8v head with 16v pistons? Since the valve reliefs in the pistons are now inadequate, do the valves clear the pistons?

[Rhinoman]

They do clear, it may become an interference engine though.

[2stroker]

Rhinoman wrote:

Less airflow = lower torque. In the US they reckon that the 1.3 head and carb gives better low end throttle response for rock crawling but I reckon its a waste of a 1.6 block.

Yes that is the theory, smaller valves give higher intake velocity at those low rpm which allows more air/ fuel mixture and therefore greater torque. However once the engine starts building rpm the smaller valves become a disadvantage in that the engine has the ability to use a greater volume of air/fuel mixture and regardless of the higher velocity they create the smaller valves and ports become restrictive in available volume.

There is a cross over point in the rpm range where the small valves and ports become a disadvantage, each engine is different depending on the efficiency of all the other combined factors but from experience with a couple of the cars that we have worked on that had 1300 heads on 1600 blocks the disadvantage seems to start showing around the 3500-4000 rpm range. That rpm range is an area where most Suzuki's spend a fair bit of time so it is not a good rpm range to be flattening out.

In the end putting a 1600 block under your 1300 head, manifold and carbie will work and it will probably go better than your old tired 1300 bottom end but it won't be better than if you had fitted a complete 1600, with 1600 head, 1600 manifold and 1600 carbie.

[KEENSY85]

fordem wrote:

No comments on the 8v head with 16v pistons? Since the valve reliefs in the pistons are now inadequate, do the valves clear the pistons?

Just clay test it :/


Dont fit the 1.3 head just get the 1600a head machined to raise compression. .I cant see any point in fitting a 1.3 cylinder head.
Just my 2c worth no pun intended