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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:19 am 
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can anyone advise me on where i can get castor plates for a jimny or any pics of any that have been made up thanks guys any advice on this would be great cheers.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:28 am 
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looy387 wrote:
can anyone advise me on where i can get castor plates for a jimny or any pics of any that have been made up thanks guys any advice on this would be great cheers.


As far as I know there are none in existence. I've actually just designed some but haven't had time to have them CNC'd yet. Should have a set for testing within the next couple of weeks.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:20 am 
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Should have a set for testing within the next couple of weeks.[/quote]

:woohoo:

Are they going to make the castor angle within factory recommendation's because my castor is out by 1deg, even with the off-set bushes.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:33 am 
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How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:52 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


Hey FZ will your arms your making work with the off-set castor bush's?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:39 am 
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monkey wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


Hey FZ will your arms your making work with the off-set castor bush's?


My arms, once approved can theoretically accept any bush that is the same size as the OEM unit. But why would you want to put castor correction bushes in a castor corrected arm? :?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:02 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
monkey wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


Hey FZ will your arms your making work with the off-set castor bush's?


My arms, once approved can theoretically accept any bush that is the same size as the OEM unit. But why would you want to put castor correction bushes in a castor corrected arm? :?


Because i already have the castor correction bush's and i don't have the OME ones any more.

Also how do the arms correct the castor angle if each lift is different.E.g. My lift is 80mm and zukenutter is a 90mm lift, so won't the castor angle still be out?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:04 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


back up on this? AFAIK alignment correction products require no approval

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:55 am 
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royce wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


back up on this? AFAIK alignment correction products require no approval


Because the castor plates require you to drill holes through the original radius arms mounts, thus potentially weakening them. Like I said, if they are welded on, they can be approved, as the new plate is stregtening the old one.

I had this issue with My GQ when I had the 36's on it. I got a canary, and thats one of the things I had to get approved.

On a side note, castor plates are synonymous with above legal lifts, which to the officer in the know is an instant red flag.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:16 am 
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I think smiffkid re-drill his on his jimny.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:02 am 
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im interested in this. how long till your cnc ones are done?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:25 pm 
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monkey wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
monkey wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


Hey FZ will your arms your making work with the off-set castor bush's?


My arms, once approved can theoretically accept any bush that is the same size as the OEM unit. But why would you want to put castor correction bushes in a castor corrected arm? :?


Because i already have the castor correction bush's and i don't have the OME ones any more.


just buy new ones :wink:

in that way you have a whole new setup.... and if u spending the money for the arms, why not to spend bit more for bushes

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 6:54 pm 
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Wouldn't u be better off with drop boxes at the chassis end rather then caster plates
That way ur arms are flat giving u better handling

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:51 pm 
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monkey wrote:
Are they going to make the castor angle within factory recommendation's because my castor is out by 1deg, even with the off-set bushes.


At a guess they'll be for lifts over 90mm, anything less than this will need to include caster bushes to bring the axle rotation back a bit. They may not even work, truth will be in the testing but I think they should. I can't see any reason why they won't work well apart from maybe too much correction.

Fatzook wrote:
royce wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
How do the castor plates afix to the diff?

I had castor plates on my GQ and I can assure you that unless they are welded and blue plated, they are illegal.


back up on this? AFAIK alignment correction products require no approval


Because the castor plates require you to drill holes through the original radius arms mounts, thus potentially weakening them. Like I said, if they are welded on, they can be approved, as the new plate is stregtening the old one.

I had this issue with My GQ when I had the 36's on it. I got a canary, and thats one of the things I had to get approved.

On a side note, castor plates are synonymous with above legal lifts, which to the officer in the know is an instant red flag.


There are no holes to drill, that's something I didn't want, they'll be 100% bolt on. Drilling holes would be the easy way out but I agree that it would be detrimental to the strength of the connection.

[hr]

got_bar_work wrote:
Wouldn't u be better off with drop boxes at the chassis end rather then caster plates
That way ur arms are flat giving u better handling


Have thought about doing this but the loss of ground clearance would make the lift a bit pointless. Yes the handling would be much better and would return the wheelbase to stock. Also I think the shafts may need to be extended.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:47 pm 
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You could do a arm flip and put the Arms on the top of the diff if there is enough room
Would need to be certified of course

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:37 pm 
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got_bar_work wrote:
You could do a arm flip and put the Arms on the top of the diff if there is enough room
Would need to be certified of course


I think that would clash with springs, shocks etc. Maybe at the chassis end would also contact the chassis when articulating.

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:46 pm 
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zukenutter do you have a drawing on how these plates work?

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Post Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:08 pm 
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monkey wrote:
zukenutter do you have a drawing on how these plates work?


Just CAD at the moment. Will get a pic once they're installed.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:43 pm 
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thanks guys i have a few ideas now lol well well mr zukenutter please let me know if you want a ginie pig to test them out lol im not gentle on things lol and i have to replace the clutch in my jimny is there any you would recomend it will be running 31s and reduction gears real soon cheers

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:04 pm 
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If you're running gears go a stock clutch, works perfectly for me. Some prefer Heavy Duty though. Comes down to what you like and driving technique/style I guess.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:50 am 
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i didn drill my arms, thats just super dodgy, i just have the 3degree castor correction in mine and they seem to work fine.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:52 am 
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smiffkid wrote:
i didn drill my arms, thats just super dodgy, i just have the 3degree castor correction in mine and they seem to work fine.


I thought you re-drilled something?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:54 am 
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i didn, but i didn drill my radius arms

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:55 am 
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smiffkid wrote:
i didn, but i didn drill my radius arms


What did you drill then?

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:57 am 
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a piece of steel

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Post Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:00 am 
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Image

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Post Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:33 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
Image


Jimny extended shackle's... 8O hektix. :P

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Post Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:45 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
Jimny extended shackle's... 8O hektix. :P


?

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Post Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 6:51 am 
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:roll: Hektic x2... Hektix.. plural.

:helloo: :P

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Post Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:45 am 
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Fitted up the plates today.

Success and Failure

Success: With a bit of fine tuning with the angle grinder they fitted up beautifully. The cornering is really confidence inspiring and the road feel is much better with heavier steering as expected.

Failure: Now I know why these are not available for sale.
The clearance between the tie rod and the control arm is virtually non existent. The clearance between the front drive shaft and cross member is too close for my liking. There's no space for a crush tube in the upper bolt on the forward mount.

[hr]

I can fix the tie rod and shaft clearance issues with a single caster bush in the rearward mount but that's starting to be a bit counter productive to the point of the plates. I can see custom arms in Silver's future.

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