[Rusho]

alex wrote:

doesn't coilys have 3.9 diff gears and rhino has 3.7???

^^^That would be it

[Rhino]

Rusho wrote:

alex wrote:

doesn't coilys have 3.9 diff gears and rhino has 3.7???

^^^That would be it

What about 5th gear ratio? i've heard wt and nt are slightly different, so coily may also be different.

[Rusho]

Rhino wrote:

Rusho wrote:

alex wrote:

doesn't coilys have 3.9 diff gears and rhino has 3.7???

^^^That would be it

What about 5th gear ratio? i've heard wt and nt are slightly different, so coily may also be different.

It's a coily...of course it's different

[Highway-Star]

Coily should be 0.83, same as WT (well at least later model WT).

The 3.7 vs 3.9 diff should account for all the 200rpm difference between Rhino and Rusho.

[experament-u2]

so now i have my heart set on a set of 6.5s

but i am a little worried about busting tranny mounts, what is teh best way to avoid this? any simple mods or just moding the crossmember?

thanks for the advice so far all

[shep]

the mounts cost something like $13 and in the 3 or so years that i have had
6.5s i have broken 2. i reckon they are a nice cheap driveline fuse.
i dont abuse my cars but. well i do a bit but it is nicer to crawl over stuff then to go flat out

[JrZook]

shep wrote:

the mounts cost something like $13 and in the 3 or so years that i have had
6.5s i have broken 2. i reckon they are a nice cheap driveline fuse.
i dont abuse my cars but. well i do a bit but it is nicer to crawl over stuff then to go flat out

Thats if you end up getting descent quality mounts (hard to find). My first one on this zuk died within 20k's of me getting it on the road, the metal just fell off the rubber!

[shep]

JrZook wrote:

shep wrote:

the mounts cost something like $13 and in the 3 or so years that i have had
6.5s i have broken 2. i reckon they are a nice cheap driveline fuse.
i dont abuse my cars but. well i do a bit but it is nicer to crawl over stuff then to go flat out

Thats if you end up getting descent quality mounts (hard to find). My first one on this zuk died within 20k's of me getting it on the road, the metal just fell off the rubber!

i have a stash of old ones that i got off sierra wrecks i only guessed at the $13

[JrZook]

shep wrote:

JrZook wrote:

shep wrote:

the mounts cost something like $13 and in the 3 or so years that i have had
6.5s i have broken 2. i reckon they are a nice cheap driveline fuse.
i dont abuse my cars but. well i do a bit but it is nicer to crawl over stuff then to go flat out

Thats if you end up getting descent quality mounts (hard to find). My first one on this zuk died within 20k's of me getting it on the road, the metal just fell off the rubber!

i have a stash of old ones that i got off sierra wrecks i only guessed at the $13

That's the only way to do it!! Ive found that the strength of a single old genuine suzi mount is still stronger than a pair of aftermarket ones!

[S13RR4]

so what would you all reconmend for 29's?

I was looking at the 4.16's because that would put it back to stock gearing, but by the sounds of this thread you all think it would be better below stock gearing on road???

[JrZook]

S13RR4 wrote:

so what would you all reconmend for 29's?

I was looking at the 4.16's because that would put it back to stock gearing, but by the sounds of this thread you all think it would be better below stock gearing on road???

4.16 work very well with 29's, you will not be disappointed! Although if you can get the 1.3 reving to 3500-3700 in 5th at 100 it will be much happier as well as more efficient. 4.9's will do it or swapping your centers to 3.9's with 4.16's.

Dan

[S13RR4]

so you think 4.9's will be better? But they are $100 more = (

why do you think reving higher will be better for 5th?

Considering I do most driving on road my aim is to get the car at its best for on road driving

[JrZook]

S13RR4 wrote:

so you think 4.9's will be better? But they are $100 more = (

why do you think reving higher will be better for 5th?

Considering I do most driving on road my aim is to get the car at its best for on road driving

The 1.3 and also the 1.6 make there peak torque (which relates to peak efficiency) higher in the rev range than the stock 3.3K which is where a stock WT setup revs are at 100KPH in 5th. Drop back to 4th and this climbs to ~4k (cant remember exactly can someone clarify). With the bigger tires these rpm's will get even lower, worse at a true 100, not a speedo 100. So you will find your self dropping between 5th and 4th, maybe even 3rd on the highway all the time with anything remotely reassembling a hill. I drive alot of highway every year, briz to cairns and back and I found that both of these engines tend to be happier at the ~3.5k mark.

I had a hardtop with a carb 1.3 on 235's and 3.9 gears and now have a softy with 30's, 4.9's and 3.7's. These setups worked quite well on road for me.
If you can fork out the extra 100 get the 4.9's or if not get the 4.16's and if your not happy with it track down some NT centers for your diffs.

Dan