[Che]

What is the cost in parts for a typical Sierra rear disc conversion? Just wondering how much more sorting rear discs would cost than a total overhaul of the standard drums? I've had mine checked - they're OK but on their last legs

Is a conversion a worthwhile mod for a daily driver, or just something you do if you were a big wheeled zook nutter

[BlueSuzy]

Lowrangeoffroad.com

and

BenT http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=15009

[alien]

che - i'm actually getting suzistore to price up doing the conversion for me using benT's adaptors and suzistore supplying the rest (calipers, rotors, the lot as well as a prop valve and fitting)...

when i get the price i'll let you know.

[Che]

That's cheap as chups BenT, if labour isn't a killer cost it's a 100% goer then.

Keep us inform Mr Alien, if you go ahead with it tell us what you reckon with it all too.

[Teracis]

Don't you also need a handbrake to go on the transfercase (or a shaft) so that you still have a handbrake?

[want33s]

Teracis wrote:

Don't you also need a handbrake to go on the transfercase (or a shaft) so that you still have a handbrake?

Not if you use calipers from the back of a car that has a handbrake built in EG: Pintara... Magna... Lancer..

[alien]

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

[BlueSuzy]

alien wrote:

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

With 1 shit drum? I dont.

Never rely on your handbrake.

[2stroker]

want33s wrote:

Teracis wrote:

Don't you also need a handbrake to go on the transfercase (or a shaft) so that you still have a handbrake?

Not if you use calipers from the back of a car that has a handbrake built in EG: Pintara... Magna... Lancer..

Yeah Jas but the Sierra kit is made for non handbrake sierra front calipers on the back and will need the fitter to work out their front to rear bias and then fit the approtriate proportioning valve. The master cyl will have to have the return dampening valve removed from the rear circuit as well. I personally think that Sierra's have very good brakes. Most of the time when people have told me that they are unhappy with their Sierra's brakes it has proved to be because their brakes are operating at way way less than their full potential. In my opinion I would overhaul the standard brakes before doing a disc conversion unless of course you were someone with the expertise to do it properly.

[royce]

alien wrote:

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it, doesnt matter if the brake is on teh shaft or a pair of axles, all wheels on the ground in 4wd it will brake all wheels, the only advantatage is it uses the mechanical advantage of teh diff gears to multiply the force needed to overcome the brake.

Unlocked diffs a tailshaft handbrake will not work if 1 wheel both ends has no traction, even one rear wheel a little off the ground up a hill will see it roll backwards till it hits firm ground, a pair of brakes on a diff will still have some holding.

Drums make for better handbrakes than discs as there is more surface area

Che, unless you are a regular mud plugger there is no advantage and I would think the labour alone to fit discs would be dearer than an all up rebuild of your rear brakes (remember the axles need to come off, the old backing plates need to be cut off or removed, which means the wheel bearings have to come off

[2stroker]

royce wrote:

alien wrote:

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it, doesnt matter if the brake is on teh shaft or a pair of axles, all wheels on the ground in 4wd it will brake all wheels, the only advantatage is it uses the mechanical advantage of teh diff gears to multiply the force needed to overcome the brake.

Unlocked diffs a tailshaft handbrake will not work if 1 wheel both ends has no traction, even one rear wheel a little off the ground up a hill will see it roll backwards till it hits firm ground, a pair of brakes on a diff will still have some holding.

Drums make for better handbrakes than discs as there is more surface area

Che, unless you are a regular mud plugger there is no advantage and I would think the labour alone to fit discs would be dearer than an all up rebuild of your rear brakes (remember the axles need to come off, the old backing plates need to be cut off or removed, which means the wheel bearings have to come off

Exactly

[ajsr]

personally I think the brakes on my sierra are great even with 34's

the only time I think disks would be nice is when Ive filled the drum with mud and sand and have to take the drum off for a clean out, but thats bogholes for you.

[bieebs!]

royce wrote:

alien wrote:

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it, doesnt matter if the brake is on teh shaft or a pair of axles, all wheels on the ground in 4wd it will brake all wheels, the only advantatage is it uses the mechanical advantage of teh diff gears to multiply the force needed to overcome the brake.

Unlocked diffs a tailshaft handbrake will not work if 1 wheel both ends has no traction, even one rear wheel a little off the ground up a hill will see it roll backwards till it hits firm ground, a pair of brakes on a diff will still have some holding.

unless you have a locked diff

[ajsr]

bieebs! wrote:

2stroker wrote:

royce wrote:

alien wrote:

i want to do mine using sierra calipers and the e-brake from a NT tcase (so it locks the tcase)... i like the idea of when in 4wd having all 4 wheels braked.

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it, doesnt matter if the brake is on teh shaft or a pair of axles, all wheels on the ground in 4wd it will brake all wheels, the only advantatage is it uses the mechanical advantage of teh diff gears to multiply the force needed to overcome the brake.

Unlocked diffs a tailshaft handbrake will not work if 1 wheel both ends has no traction, even one rear wheel a little off the ground up a hill will see it roll backwards till it hits firm ground, a pair of brakes on a diff will still have some holding.

unless you have a locked diff

thinking is not the strong point with this one either, royce said exactly that in his post, if you bother to read it again

[tmb99]

What about the wear rate of drums? Mine went from about half to nothing over 2 days of muddy driving. Thinking instead of getting new pads, put the $$ towards a disc conversion. BenT's kit, vit front upgrade, stock front on the back.

[mondo]

i've got standard brakes on my coily, only running 235/75's, and im more than happy with the braking power. only hassle is mud, seems to get stuck in the drum. Is this the only reason people switch to discs for the rear?

[chris_mac]

instead of doing rear disc conversion can anyone tell me if it would be more beneficial to swap standard front sierra disc for a slotted ones? does it make the brakes stronger or only more heat resistant?

http://www.suzispares.com/scripts/prodV ... roduct=705

kris

[royce]

chris_mac wrote:

instead of doing rear disc conversion can anyone tell me if it would be more beneficial to swap standard front sierra disc for a slotted ones? does it make the brakes stronger or only more heat resistant?

http://www.suzispares.com/scripts/prodV ... roduct=705

kris

Not for that price!!!

I doubt you would ever notice the difference, slots are really to just help wipe the pad in heavy braking

[chris_mac]

royce wrote:

chris_mac wrote:

instead of doing rear disc conversion can anyone tell me if it would be more beneficial to swap standard front sierra disc for a slotted ones? does it make the brakes stronger or only more heat resistant?

http://www.suzispares.com/scripts/prodV ... roduct=705

kris

Not for that price!!!

I doubt you would ever notice the difference, slots are really to just help wipe the pad in heavy braking

thanks Royce, i thought it's a bit pricey comparing to standard discs

[alien]

royce wrote:

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it,

just like your personality isn't yours mate...

however the information you provided after that remark was useful and has been taken on board, so thanks for that.

[steak_knife]

alien wrote:

royce wrote:

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it,

just like your personality isn't yours mate...

however the information you provided after that remark was useful and has been taken on board, so thanks for that.

So you know Royce well enough to make that judgment??

[96coily]

steak_knife wrote:

alien wrote:

royce wrote:

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it,

just like your personality isn't yours mate...

however the information you provided after that remark was useful and has been taken on board, so thanks for that.

So you know Royce well enough to make that judgment??

They must know each other rather well for each of them to be making subjective judgements... or is that just a one way street on this forum

[steak_knife]

96coily wrote:

steak_knife wrote:

alien wrote:

royce wrote:

Shit, thinking is not your strong point is it,

just like your personality isn't yours mate...

however the information you provided after that remark was useful and has been taken on board, so thanks for that.

So you know Royce well enough to make that judgment??

They must know each other rather well for each of them to be making subjective judgements... or is that just a one way street on this forum

Not sure peanut....

[96coily]

peanut

[UBZ]

I have spider trax brackets and vitara calipers on the back of my NT.with a proportioning valve.
Stock front calipers diddnt work as the bleed nipple made full contact with the bump stop whille flexing

One of the best offroad upgrades I've done to my zuk.
We wheel alot in the wet here in Nz and my drums were only good untill they got wet and I was going through drum pads like cheese due to the mud. The problem is the spider trax bracket leaves bottom of the wheel bearing exposed shortening their life dramatically , currently sorting a solution on form of a cover to fill the gap

[2stroker]

I have never had a problem with brake wear in my suzuki's, if you think about how your brakes work and wear you would imagine that slowing the vehicle from road speeds to a stop over and over again on your daily commute would cause more wear than the slow speed brake applications that you use off road crawling. I think that as others have said it is the mud and dirt ingression that plays havock with brakes (and other mechanicals)

[JrZook]

2stroker wrote:

I have never had a problem with brake wear in my suzuki's, if you think about how your brakes work and wear you would imagine that slowing the vehicle from road speeds to a stop over and over again on your daily commute would cause more wear than the slow speed brake applications that you use off road crawling. I think that as others have said it is the mud and dirt ingression that plays havock with brakes (and other mechanicals)

I only got a year ~12000k's outta rear shoes doing mainly road work and very minimal offroad wheel deep muddy crap. Shoes were only a few mm from their backing. Wonder if this wear has something to do with the quality of some aftermarket shoes?

Sidenote:

That bloody auto adjuster is a joke. It doesn't seem to auto do much anything! Unless all the aftermarket shoes have got the slots cut to big for the adjuster, the adjuster itself is going to need some modifications

Dan

[303zuke]

2stroker wrote:

want33s wrote:

Teracis wrote:

Don't you also need a handbrake to go on the transfercase (or a shaft) so that you still have a handbrake?

Not if you use calipers from the back of a car that has a handbrake built in EG: Pintara... Magna... Lancer..

Yeah Jas but the Sierra kit is made for non handbrake sierra front calipers on the back and will need the fitter to work out their front to rear bias and then fit the approtriate proportioning valve.

Joeblow's Sierra kit is made to use Pintara/Skyline rear calipers with a handbrake. There was a bit of a write up in the "I made it" forum.

[JrZook]

303zuke wrote:

2stroker wrote:

want33s wrote:

Teracis wrote:

Don't you also need a handbrake to go on the transfercase (or a shaft) so that you still have a handbrake?

Not if you use calipers from the back of a car that has a handbrake built in EG: Pintara... Magna... Lancer..

Yeah Jas but the Sierra kit is made for non handbrake sierra front calipers on the back and will need the fitter to work out their front to rear bias and then fit the approtriate proportioning valve.

Joeblow's Sierra kit is made to use Pintara/Skyline rear calipers with a handbrake. There was a bit of a write up in the "I made it" forum.

Wonder how available this kit is?

[royce]

JrZook wrote:

I only got a year ~12000k's outta rear shoes doing mainly road work and very minimal offroad wheel deep muddy crap. Shoes were only a few mm from their backing. Wonder if this wear has something to do with the quality of some aftermarket shoes?

Sidenote:

That bloody auto adjuster is a joke. It doesn't seem to auto do much anything! Unless all the aftermarket shoes have got the slots cut to big for the adjuster, the adjuster itself is going to need some modifications

Dan

Yeah I reckon the aftermarket shoes are crap, when I got my vit the rears were a bit shady looking and still original so it was a better do that one day job, 100,000km later they got done and were still legal, aftermarket ones seem to go 12 months and are stuffed

and yeah that hole needs to be spot on in size, if you cant get a good set welding it up a bit works well