[kennomini]

I have a spare F10a 1 liter engine here and was wondering what mods can be done to them to get more power out of them?
I'm thinking along the lines of porting and increasing the combustion chamber in the head, larger valves, cams, shaving the block or head to up compression, balancing and lightning cranks and rods, boring them out or stroking them, better timing drive and ignition options etc etc
What can be done?
What has been done a lot?
What are the weak parts in these engines or what are they lacking?

[DropBear8]

would it not be cheaper to just get a newer version of engine that already has a bigger capacity

[303zuke]

There's no real weak part to the F10A, it will go and go forever, but it's not particularly powerful or torquey like you might be wanting. There isn't a great deal of bolt-on upgrades for the F10A as it was never a seller (in big numbers, there were a few) in the US, which is where most of the components for the G13A have come from.

There was a UK company (Red Lion??) making manifolds for the sidedraught Weber 45DCOE in the 80's, good luck finding one today. Japanese Hitachi "SU-style" carbs (HF38 ex-Datsun) are also a bolt in that gives a little more power.

Suzuki LT250-4WD Quad Bike pistons will fit, giving you a bigger range of overbore sizes than would normally be available for the F10A. The F10A is a cast iron block and you can go up quite a bit in bore size before requiring Liners, unlike the G13A (or any G series block actually, they're alloy with cast liners).

The electronic distributor from a G13A or G16A will fit straight in, giving smoother ignition and removing the hassles of points and condensors, but no huge power gain there.

And about the last thing available for the F10A are extractors.

[kennomini]

DropBear8 wrote:

would it not be cheaper to just get a newer version of engine that already has a bigger capacity

Possibly yes but I like a challenge and being able to punch above my "weight class" so to say.
To tell you guys the truth my motoring history is in minis (if any of you want to try and talk $hit about minis feel free, I've got plenty of ammo to fire back). Through minis I started to look at Mokes and that led to this...I'm actually trying to build one of these;

It's a BMC or Leyland Moke shell on top of a Sierra chassis and running gear. The engine bay is the limiting factor when it comes to engine transplants and the ADR's to get it road registered is the reason I've gone for an early Sierra.

303zuke wrote:

There's no real weak part to the F10A, it will go and go forever. That's good to know.
There isn't a great deal of bolt-on upgrades for the F10A.
There was a UK company (Red Lion??) making manifolds for the sidedraught Weber 45DCOE in the 80's, good luck finding one today. Japanese Hitachi "SU-style" carbs (HF38 ex-Datsun) are also a bolt in that gives a little more power.
Suzuki LT250-4WD Quad Bike pistons will fit, giving you a bigger range of overbore sizes than would normally be available for the F10A. The F10A is a cast iron block and you can go up quite a bit in bore size before requiring Liners, unlike the G13A (or any G series block actually, they're alloy with cast liners).
The electronic distributor from a G13A or G16A will fit straight in, giving smoother ignition and removing the hassles of points and condensors, but no huge power gain there.
And about the last thing available for the F10A are extractors.

I am more concerned with internal mods than bolt on's, most bolt on stuff I'd prefer to make myself.
Personally I'm more of a SU carby guy, I've already thought about converting to a set of twin or quad SU's considering it's an 8 port head making a manifold wont be that hard.
Boring out the block, and considering it is cast is something I'm use to already. Is their a list of over sized pistons available?
The dizzy option is a good one, getting away from points is always a good point...
I also have a set of extractors on it already.

[roughzook]

i know what doesn't work....a free flowing filter.

[kennomini]

roughzook wrote:

i know what doesn't work....a free flowing filter.

Well for an off road 4x4 proably not but otherwise their good .

[mrw82]

I'd be interested to know of any improvements you find, I want to get a bit more mid range performance out of my 1 litre, in the 3500 - 4500rpm rev range. I already have extractors, but apart from that the engine is stock.

I have well setup gearing so off road it performs brilliantly, I just want a bit more holding power on the highway (I have a 5 speed fitted aswell, so find myself shifting back to 4th a fair bit)

[steak_knife]

Porting, cam & carby, make any eng breathe better & it must go better

[3cyl]

Love that Mokezuki! Think I NEED to build one.

[steak_knife]

3cyl wrote:

Love that Mokezuki! Think I NEED to build one.

I thought the same thing, till I remembered the body would be pommy....

[royce]

steak_knife wrote:

3cyl wrote:

Love that Mokezuki! Think I NEED to build one.

I thought the same thing, till I remembered the body would be pommy....

you can buy new bodies from India, would make it more a maruti then wouldnt it

I went mini mini mini mini 1 litre sierra, 1.3 sierra Vitara mini

the 1 litre is a damn good engine thats plenty strong but there is no point trying to get more from em, in a 4wd heaps of high rev power is useless

a 1.6 is allowed in any disc brake front Sierra, I am pretty sure all sierras complied to the same ADR's (bar unleaded) up to 96 so not a lot of real advantages there and a body swap in QLD makes it an ICV so any model would be fine anyway I would think

but, DO IT and take lots of pics, there wil be a few people haere taking notice of how you do it

[roughzook]

kennomini wrote:

roughzook wrote:

i know what doesn't work....a free flowing filter.

Well for an off road 4x4 proably not but otherwise their good .

no even on road. Obviously not offroad. I bought a f10a powered vehicle with a free flowing filter, it ran like cap. Had to go back to a stock airbox to get it running right.

could just have been cause the stock carby cant provide enough fuel for all that air.

[3cyl]

They've done something pretty freaky with the master cylinder mounting, not sure an engineer would go for that. Pommy bodies are fine, even suspension is okay, let's not talk about diffs or wiring though. It's a win win situation in the Mokezuki though cause it'll have good diffs and would be a rewire anyway. No doors to rattle or dent, bulk clearance and low COG, what's not to like?

[royce]

roughzook wrote:

kennomini wrote:

roughzook wrote:

i know what doesn't work....a free flowing filter.

Well for an off road 4x4 proably not but otherwise their good .

no even on road. Obviously not offroad. I bought a f10a powered vehicle with a free flowing filter, it ran like cap. Had to go back to a stock airbox to get it running right.

could just have been cause the stock carby cant provide enough fuel for all that air.

I bet it was especially worse at part throttle right

[2stroker]

roughzook wrote:

kennomini wrote:

roughzook wrote:

i know what doesn't work....a free flowing filter.

Well for an off road 4x4 proably not but otherwise their good .

no even on road. Obviously not offroad. I bought a f10a powered vehicle with a free flowing filter, it ran like cap. Had to go back to a stock airbox to get it running right.

could just have been cause the stock carby cant provide enough fuel for all that air.

You need to read a bit more of how an engine works, what you are saying is totally wrong.

[kennomini]

3cyl wrote:

Love that Mokezuki! Think I NEED to build one.

Yeah something different so it should be worth it in the end but it's taking a lot of mucking around to figure out how to do it properly.
Technical that green one has a custom chassis so not road register-able in QLD but it is well built and also has independent rear wheel steering.

steak_knife wrote:

I thought the same thing, till I remembered the body would be pommy....

a Leyland moke is all Ozzy steel, Ozzy pressed and Ozzy constructed by Ozzy workers, more than can be said about your Jap tin

[3cyl]

Pretty sure they made some twin engined 4wd mokes, experimental I guess. Must have been a great time to be an engineer the 60s and 70s. Needs to be 2 stroke to live up to its name though.

[303zuke]

And for the Winter months, go hardtop:

[JrZook]

2stroker wrote:

roughzook wrote:

kennomini wrote:

roughzook wrote:

i know what doesn't work....a free flowing filter.

Well for an off road 4x4 proably not but otherwise their good .

no even on road. Obviously not offroad. I bought a f10a powered vehicle with a free flowing filter, it ran like cap. Had to go back to a stock airbox to get it running right.

could just have been cause the stock carby cant provide enough fuel for all that air.

You need to read a bit more of how an engine works, what you are saying is totally wrong.

Agreed

[JrZook]

kennomini wrote:

Personally I'm more of a SU carby guy, I've already thought about converting to a set of twin or quad SU's considering it's an 8 port head making a manifold wont be that hard.
Boring out the block, and considering it is cast is something I'm use to already. Is their a list of over sized pistons available?
The dizzy option is a good one, getting away from points is always a good point...
I also have a set of extractors on it already.

If your more of a SU guy (constant velocity carb) then a quad set of 32mm CV bike carbs will go great!!

[kennomini]

3cyl wrote:

Pretty sure they made some twin engined 4wd mokes, experimental I guess. Must have been a great time to be an engineer the 60s and 70s. Needs to be 2 stroke to live up to its name though.

They made 1 or 2 twin engined mokes in England and 1 on Oz I think, plus they also made a AWD mini in England and a 4WD moke in Oz. It was all deemed un-economical to go into production but these vehicles were awesome for power to weight and traction.
But were getting off topic, JrZook I agree quad bike carbs would be easy.
Has anyone actually done any decent mods on the F10A?