[inbits]

You will need to remove the x member it will make life easier

[steak_knife]

inbits wrote:

You will need to remove the x member it will make life A METRIC F*#K LOAD easier

Typo..

[shabz]

steak_knife wrote:

inbits wrote:

You will need to remove the x member it will make life A METRIC F*#K LOAD easier

Typo..

Thought so.....will try to get some pics as i go

[steak_knife]

Go spray more wd on the exhaust bolt's....

[shabz]

steak_knife wrote:

Go spray more wd on the exhaust bolt's....

That was my main focus!

All the others that i could see looked pretty clean...still gave them a good soaking though. Will do it all again tomorrow so hopefully on Saturday they all come off easily

[shabz]

Got all my parts today





Ready to start work

[shabz]

It has begun....

I started with removing the front and rear tailshafts. The shorter one is the front, and you can see its black and shiney compared to the other.....thats all engine oil that leaked out.



This is the view underneath with the tailshafts removed.


Next i took off the exhaust. I took it out as one piece, as i couldn't under the bolts that have the springs on them (just infront of the cat). They were pretty rusted and the whole thing would twist and bent with a bit of force. After being soaked in wd40 for a couple of days the rest of the bolts weren't too hard to take off.



This is the view underneath, pic taken fron drivers side.....messy job.


From there i disconnected the clutch slave cylinder, started motor, and unpluged all wiring fron the box.

The cross member was then removed, and the PITA job of getting all the bolts out, especially 2 bolts at the top of the bell housing.

Next the lowering the box began. I had a tolley jack positioned underneath (lowered), and with the help of a mate slid the box out and rested it onto the jack. Not much room to play with and with everything covered in oil it was a real pain. 10 mins of stuffing around we got it out.



I should have disconnected the gear levers from inside the car before lowering the box....would have made life a lot easier with clearance and would have avoided this happening....it also cut the other rubber boot underneath.



There's the view of the clutch with everything out.


Closer view of the pressure plate.


Pressure and clutch plates out. View of the flywheel. Needed to undo the 8 bolts around the spigot bearing. I used a length of wood, placed vertically, with one end under one of the pressure plate bolts, and the other end on the ground - this stopped the crank from turning as the bolts were very tight and have thread glue on them.



Flywheel off, and view of the rear main seal. I carefully pried the old seal out with a screw driver, and put the new one it. Was a tight fit and can get annoying as it pops back out very easily as your trying to push it in evenly.


From here i have to wait till during the week so i can take the flywheel to get machined, before i put everything back together. Time spent so far about 5-6 hours taking my time.

Seeing as i can't do much more for the moment i pulled out the degreaser

Mmm....shiney....




Everything went pretty smoothly....till this


Thats the bottom of the transfer, and the bolt snapped while i was undoing the mount. First bolts came out easily, this bolt had alot of resistance to it. Got it 1/4 of the way out and it snapped!...not happy......Any ideas of how to get it out?

[steak_knife]

How the f*#k did you get that out with the stick's still in????

[shabz]

steak_knife wrote:

How the f*#k did you get that out with the stick's still in????

Well.....now you can see why i cut the boots!

Actually, half way through the whole operation we had a bit of a breather while trying to figure out how to do it.

I just unbolted the front swaybar and swung it out of the way......gave a good 4 inches more room to drop the bell housing. If i had thought of this before we started i reckon i could have gotten it out without damaging the boots.



Oh also, i selected 3rd gear and 4L - this pushed the sticks as far forward as possible.

[steak_knife]

Take em out & enjoy a nice easy install...

[shabz]

steak_knife wrote:

:crazy:

Take em out & enjoy a nice easy install...

Oh i will don't worry about that!

Stekky any thoughts on that snapped bolt?

[steak_knife]

Center punch as close to center as you can, small drill up the gutt's & increase size of bit till you can just see thread, then just tap out at the edge's with a center punch....

[shabz]

Sounds like a plan!

I'll start off with an extractor bit.....and if that doesn't work i'll give that method a shot.

[steak_knife]

shabz wrote:

Sounds like a plan!

I'll start off with an extractor bit.....and if that doesn't work i'll give that method a shot.

I HATE those thing's, once broken you can't drill em...

[shabz]

Though i might give it a shot now coz I'm an impatient bugger

Getting ready - flipped the gearbox on it's side and got ready to drill


I started drilling - got about 6-7mm in and the drill bit got stuck
Flicked the drill to reverse to try to get the bit out.....and it unscrewed the bolt with it!


I had to put it in a vice to get the bit out again but all went smoothly. Total operation took about 15 mins

[gregdixon]

What a jag You don't get that to often.

[shabz]

Got my flywheel machined and picked it up today. Ready to go in.

Also i ordered new boots to replace the ones i damaged. Turns out i can only buy the top boot (in pic above - #27 in pic below) - the bottom one is part of the gear stick assembly can not be ordered individually! They said if i want it i'd have to buy the whole thing! (#24 in pic below)



They suggest i use some sikaflex to seal up the tear in the smaller boot....so i'll look into that.

As for the larger one, well i can simply tear the old one off.....but how do i get the new one on?! The parts diagram shows it as a complete unit, but surely there must be a way to seperate the gear stick....

I can't figure it out, is it screw on? pressed/glued in?

[steak_knife]

Glued/bonded, if you want the boot off you will have to stretch it over the stick, so order a new one now...

[shabz]

Already did! Arrives tomorrow

And to think out of all the problems...umm 'hicups'...something like this to happen

[steak_knife]

You did well on the bolt, forgot to mention that in the post above..

Q. Would you do it again??

[shabz]

steak_knife wrote:

You did well on the bolt, forgot to mention that in the post above..

Q. Would you do it again??

I dunno yet - still gotta put it back together!

Well if its gonna save me another 1500 bucks in labour.....i wouldn't WANT to do it again...but probably will

[steak_knife]

Fair enough, some people get the bug once doing a job like this that was thought to be over their head's...

well done so far mate...

[shabz]

Cheers Stek.

I didn't think i'd be over my head...just a fair bit of work, ontop of everything else i'm doing at the moment.

Makes it easy that i have a spare car to use at the moment too

[Crunched]

gregdixon wrote:

What a jag You don't get that to often.

Actually, you do. Without the head on the bolt, there is no tension on it. Usually you can just about wind them out with your fingertip.

[Built4thrashing]

All this talk of Rear main seals must have made mine go out on sympathy. so once ya finished doing yours you can come do mine.


Nah ill just send mine to my mechanic mate.

[shabz]

hehehe.....tell the mechanic to take the sticks out first

So this is the smaller boot (the one i can't buy individually) that i've also torn



Picked up a small tube of sikaflex and did this...



I also put a bead on the inside...will give it a day or two to dry properly and see if it holds up. If not my next option is to see if i can find a boot from anything else that might fit.

[Built4thrashing]

that so looks like a sierra shifter. Hmm try a boot from a sierra t/case. Might be the same.

[losfer]

We charge about $1000 to do a clutch in a GV , thats $295 for the clutch kit , $90 for a new rear main seal , $85 for a clutch release fork , $70 for flywheel machine and spigot bearing , $12 for gear oil , and the rest in labour //

[MacDaddy]

Good write up, and handy info shabz... thanks...

I might be getting all of this done on mine within 6 months... as i think my clutch needs replacing soon... i dont have the tools or room to do it, so i will have to pay to get it done...

[Mugwui]

shabz wrote:

hehehe.....tell the mechanic to take the sticks out first

So this is the smaller boot (the one i can't buy individually) that i've also torn



Picked up a small tube of sikaflex and did this...



I also put a bead on the inside...will give it a day or two to dry properly and see if it holds up. If not my next option is to see if i can find a boot from
anything else that might fit.

Damn it! You know how you hang onto stuff thinking that you'll need it one day, and then after a couple of years you don't use it so you throw it out!!!!
Last week I threw one of those boots out after hanging onto it for two years.
That would have been a nice easy fix for you.