[clare]

For the past 3-4 days, coily's been giving me really high revs when starting up. After starting with no problem, she idles straight up at nearly 2k, then takes about 5 mins to slowly build up to about 3k when idling until dropping back and sitting on the normal 1k.

This morning I had an additional issue when she took 4 tries with really pumping the accelerator before finally ticking over.

Up until this point, I've never had any issues when idling, and she may have pushed 1.5k to warm up when cold, but that was it.

Before I get to a mechanic who sees $$$ flash before his eyes when a chick walks in, anyone here have any ideas on what might be the problem?

[royce]

check your water level isnt low in the radiator (engine cold!!!)

if the choke isnt getting coolant through it it could do that

[alien]

when mine did that the choke was on its way out, and once you put an aftermarket auto-choke in you'll be replacing it every year cos the aftermarket ones suck =/ thats what sealed the deal for me to swap the aisin carb for a weber with manual choke. lol

i think someone around here makes a conversion kit for the aisin to convert it to manual choke as well though?

[zooky08]

Maby air leak between carby and manafold?

[steak_knife]

zooky08 wrote:

Maby air leak between carby and manafold?

Why only cold??

Normally a leak like said will open up with heat..

[zooky08]

Air leaks can happen any time
Can happen as soon as you start the car

up and down revs are known for air leaks.
But in this case it could not be the problem
Might be the chock playing up

Was just a idea

[shabz]

hey clare - just had a good look at your avatar...i think i've spotted you around the Altona area before.....spotties on the roof look familiar

Sorry didn't mean to change topic

[SuziBlu]

royce wrote:

check your water level isnt low in the radiator (engine cold!!!)

if the choke isnt getting coolant through it it could do that

How can that be an issue, regardless if there is a radiator, or not, on a cold start, things should behave as normal.

I hate the ever so very complicated aisin, stock carby, it is very hard to tune, very hard to understand.

I would suggest, its a air fuel mix problem, tho how to solve it, without being there and first hand, sorry, no ideas.

[joeblow]

the cold start idle is fully adjustable. has the vehicle been 'touched' at all recently?

if it is getting hard to start i'd say the choke butterfly is not closing correctly when cold. there is a round spring giving this butterfly tension. it could be broken or has come off its stop.

[royce]

SuziBlu wrote:

royce wrote:

check your water level isnt low in the radiator (engine cold!!!)

if the choke isnt getting coolant through it it could do that

How can that be an issue, regardless if there is a radiator, or not, on a cold start, things should behave as normal.

I hate the ever so very complicated aisin, stock carby, it is very hard to tune, very hard to understand.

I would suggest, its a air fuel mix problem, tho how to solve it, without being there and first hand, sorry, no ideas.

Because no coolant causes trouble with chokes and checking the level is a billion times easier than digging in and adjusting other stuff

easier to check something simple off as being ok than trying to tune around it

its not a mixture problem, engines dont rev that hard with a different amount of fuel and no extra air unless they were so far off before it wouldnt drive

My pick after that is the waxstat in teh choke is jammed and has pushed the choke open more and its then taking longer to get enough heat to pull back, but its too hard to explain over the internet how to check and fix it.

[stockman]

Slightly off topic:

Every now and then my mates Sierra idles a bit rough. Lets say 1/10. And most of the time it's perfect.
When it idles rough it usually drops down to about 200rpm and then stalls.
It runs perfect when driving. No roughness at all. Pulls hard through the rev range.
Would this be a simple idle jet issue?
Can the idle jet be removed with out stripping the carby?

[SuziBlu]

Royce, when things are ambient temperature, coolant should not, naa, is not an issue upon starting.

I truly hate the aisin carby, so maybe I should butt out.

IF the caby is set right, you can start the motor, with no radiator, and it will rev as per specs, only when its getting warm will things change, ie, it will not reduce revs.

[royce]

this is why you have carb problems and I dont, you keep trying to look at things through a logical perspective, not a list of what isnt currently at the spec it should be, it should have coolant, sometimes the chokes do strange things when there is no coolant (including the thing that normally moves in a wet chamber now being dry so it might stick)

I'm not saying its the problem, I am saying its been a problem a lot of times before and is piss easy for anyone to check rather than paying a mechanic a lot of money to do it for you

[SuziBlu]

I do not have carby probs mate, I rip the stupid, very complicated aisn carby off, and replace it with a much easier to understand one.
hehe

[royce]

the stock sierra carby is massively easy to understand!

dry a Black Death Holden 202 Carby, will blow your mind clean out your ear

or an SU, 2 moving parts, a needle and a spring, cant be that hard to get right, can it

[SuziBlu]

Anything with old style anti pollution shit on it, is far to hard for mere people to understand.

I love the red blocks, never had anything to do with black, replaced all the earlly V8 carbys that were anti pollution and replaced them with Holleys.

KISS, how can a carby with, 6 million springs, levers, moving bits, be easier to understand than a ever so simple, non anti pollution thing.

My stock aisin, that sits in my shed, is far bigger, for a 1.3l, than those that sat upon my 5.9l V8s

I do not dought your knowledge, not for a second, but remember, you know well how these things work, us mere mortals suffer badly when it comes to Aisins.

[steak_knife]

royce wrote:

the stock sierra carby is massively easy to understand!

dry a Black Death Holden 202 Carby, will blow your mind clean out your ear

or an SU, 2 moving parts, a needle and a spring, cant be that hard to get right, can it

Why do you make me remember thing's like that.

[royce]

steak_knife wrote:

royce wrote:

the stock sierra carby is massively easy to understand!

dry a Black Death Holden 202 Carby, will blow your mind clean out your ear

or an SU, 2 moving parts, a needle and a spring, cant be that hard to get right, can it

Why do you make me remember thing's like that.

How about carby magnas

was always a toss up as to which was worse

[steak_knife]

I used to like the plastic ball's you'd find in Magma carby's...

Fuck's me where thay came from, but made the car run like shit...

[royce]

SuziBlu wrote:

Anything with old style anti pollution shit on it, is far to hard for mere people to understand.

I love the red blocks, never had anything to do with black, replaced all the earlly V8 carbys that were anti pollution and replaced them with Holleys.

KISS, how can a carby with, 6 million springs, levers, moving bits, be easier to understand than a ever so simple, non anti pollution thing.

My stock aisin, that sits in my shed, is far bigger, for a 1.3l, than those that sat upon my 5.9l V8s

I do not dought your knowledge, not for a second, but remember, you know well how these things work, us mere mortals suffer badly when it comes to Aisins.

nah all that stuff is easy, you jsut have to read up what it does not try and figure it out

externally the only strange thing on a sierra carb is teh box on one side with teh vacuum hoses going in, its to compensate the idle air when really hot so it doesnt get rich and bog down in teh thin air, the rest works like any other two barrel carb, they are simple inside

[SuziBlu]

Early days, we spent ages trying to figure out what hoses to pull and fit a marble in, so as it looked stock, till we craked the shits, didnt care, and replaced it with a holley, and so, got far better performance, and far far better fuel milage.

[clare]

royce wrote:

check your water level isnt low in the radiator (engine cold!!!)

if the choke isnt getting coolant through it it could do that

Sweet, I'll do that first up in the morning. I think the water pump is on the way out, so fingers crossed that it's something simple(ish) like that!!

I initially figured it would be something to do with the choke, so that'll be the next step depending on the outcome of the water level checks....

shabz wrote:

hey clare - just had a good look at your avatar...i think i've spotted you around the Altona area before.....spotties on the roof look familiar

Sorry didn't mean to change topic

Yup that'd be me. Hoon around in downtown Altona every day for work..... I'd say to give me a wave, but I'll probably forget and spend ages wondering why that weirdo waved at me

[clare]

After filling the radiator and waiting for half an hour, she ran like a charm. I noticed that for a little while after filling it, I got a really slow drip from under the middle of the engine, which I was told is a sign that the water pump is on the fritz.

Apart from feeling like a bit of a dick for not keeping a closer eye on the water levels, I'm now pretty happy that it looks like I've found the culprit!

Do you guys reckon I'd be pretty safe in getting a cheapish water pump off ebay, or should I pay a bit more and go to somewhere like suzistore?

[Scrawny]

You can't go too wrong with aftermarket water pumps. Might as well do the timing belt too, if it hasn't been done recently

[Vash]

i got this same problem but my radiator is full.

[Rusho]

ScrawnC wrote:

You can't go too wrong with aftermarket water pumps. Might as well do the timing belt too, if it hasn't been done recently

Your not just a pretty face are you

[clare]

ScrawnC wrote:

You can't go too wrong with aftermarket water pumps. Might as well do the timing belt too, if it hasn't been done recently

Sweet, been checking them out too since I wasn't sure when it was last swapped over. Nice to know I'm on the right track!

[Rusho]

For the sake of twenty bucks and the fact that I'm not paying for it, thermostat also. Check all your heater hoses as well. Piece if mind that your entire cooling system is ok then.

[steak_knife]

Rusho wrote:

For the sake of twenty bucks and the fact that I'm not paying for it, thermostat also. Check all your heater hoses as well. Piece if mind that your entire cooling system is ok then.

Cam & crank seal's to, while the cam belt's off...

[Scrawny]

Vash wrote:

i got this same problem but my radiator is full.

There are two small rubber hoses that go to the back of the carby, make sure they are both hot when the engine is hot. They can get blocked which would give the same symptoms as low coolant.