Gwagensteve wrote:
Even with shipping, that full floater kit from RRO is quite cheap, however, the material of the axle shafts isn't specified. That's a concern because "22% stronger" isn't, in my opinion, enough to justify the conversion.
The floaters I've built used EN-26 shafts these are a lot more than 22% stronger than stock. These cost $600 for the pair, plus $200 for the seal adapter to use a front inner axle seal.
Additional costs are $120 or so for a complete rear vitara axle and third member from a pull-it-yourself wrecker, and $20 or so for the laser cut adapter plates to mount the spindles.
I flip and cut down the vitara rear housing so the rear axle offset is very close to correct. This is time consuming work and requires a jig to get it anywhere near square. I shave the housing at the same time. IMHO there's no need to start from scratch with new tubes.
Ideally, the axlehousing should then be trued to ensure its square.
I've built 5 of these. They have given no trouble in victoria with 35" tyres and hateful driving.
I'm about to start a couple of WT housing based floaters because we have a couple of cars in the club that require 3.7/3.9 diff ratios due to 3 speed autos. They're not as good to use as a base as the housing isn't as strong, but there you go.
I'm not selling any or offering to make any more commercially, but I am pointing out that USD$985 is good value, and that a vitara based full floater rear is, in my experience, strong enough for 35's.
I wouldn't run a floater with free wheeling hubs. They aren't as strong as drive flanges and there's one more thing there to go wrong. GV's and early 1.0litre sierras are the source for drive flanges.
Bear in mind too that using a vitara rear helps with mounting a traction bar or 3 link setup as it has the A-arm mount cast into it. Another small benefit.
Steve.
So could you use a 98GV rear as the base for this conversion??