[skyman]

I have seen a few posts here where guys are using spacers or whatever they have to lift the transfer box up and get a flat belly on their sierra's.

I know in some Sierra's you have to cut the body open to make room above the case.

My big question si whether or not the Sierra's that had this done pick up any vibrations from the case lift. I have bent an arm ever so slightly and ended up with a mad vibration. I have also twisted one once, it was such a small twist it was hard to see under the rig, but it caused some pretty bad vibrations too.

So when you lift these cases, and cut & shut the body, are you getting any vibes at all? I shoot for a rattle free, vibration free rig, so even a small vibration from the intermediate shat would drive me ape shit crazy.

Thanks for any advice you can give me.

--Sky

[Scrawny]

I never had any vibes after lifting my transfer. I had a body lift though, so no need for tunnel cutting

[CairnsZook]

Same here, no vibration at all.

I have a 25mm body lift and a 50mm T-case lift.

[ajsr]

there is no need to cut the body if you have a body lift in.
and there are reportedly less vibs

[appsie]

i run with a 50mm bodylift, a roctoy ring on the case and a 35mm lift.all i could go without dropping the case and either trimming the ring or beltin the floor.will get around to it one day tho to get it a bit higher. if it didnt have the ring im sure yu could go a heap more

no vibrations for me how i have it.

[skyman]

Thanks guys for the experienced answers, I sure appreciate it.

I was just thinking when you guys mentioned body lift, that I am SPOA on YJ's with about 4.5 inches of lift. That is probably why I get vibrations so easy.

I never thought about how the driveline angles affect the transfer case, because I am always worried about drive shafts and diffs. I will probably give it a shot, but I think it is a 50/50 crap shot as to whether or not it causes vibe in the rear drive line.

[skyman]

So what do you guys think with the SPOA? Am I going to have vibes if I lift the case up, no problem, or a toss up?

[shep]

my lwb is fine with 5 inch lift and 1 inch case lift. it is a lwb though so the rear tail(prop) shaft is much longer then a swb

[shep]

just watch that the slip joints are long enough

[royce]

I remember reading rule of thumb on stock unis not wobbling is 5" of lift, so you probably only have 12.7mm (haha metric ) of lift before you might get problems

the twisting puts the unis out of phase, thats why you get mad vibes from them

[Scrawny]

The more acute the angle of the UJ the more you notice the speeding up and slowing down of the joint. You would be better off running a double Cardon joint or even a cv setup on the rear shaft if you want to go more lift Skyman

[skyman]

Well I want more lift on the t-case, to keep it from getting hung up.

As for the suspension; Hanging out here for the last year has me wanting to drop it back down to spring under, and cut the body to get my COG lower. You guys have some extremely capable rigs that are still spring under and have a very low COG.

[CairnsZook]

Hehe, do it Skyman. Show all your yank buddies how it's really done

[skyman]

It may be this summer, but you can bet it's getting the lowering treatment. i it will be nice to be 2-3" lower, and still walk all over the jeeps. armsup

'Course before it sees the roads for the summer/spring I need to get me one of those Auzookers's stickers bought from royce.

Either that, or just an sticker with AZ by it, so all the auzooker's will know, but we don't have a bunch of wankers trying to join lol.

[BlueSuzy]

If your Spoa and dont want to change much, Get some reversed eye springs, or flip your top main leafs and get them reset upside down. It will make you lower, but wil allow you to raise up the transfer with less vibes, if there are any. Nik has some on here.

[skyman]

Hey thanks for the idea there, that's a damned good idea.

I have seen the RE's before but never even thought about it. That would lower the rig as much as I need, without having to do a ton of suspension work. It would probably just barely clear the sheet metal too, so I would not have as much work there either.

I have an extra pair of Yj springs, so I could have them done without having to wait for them.

I knew AZ was my home for more than one reason, thanks BlueSuzy, now I have a new direction to look.

[BlueSuzy]

skyman wrote:

Hey thanks for the idea there, that's a damned good idea.

I have seen the RE's before but never even thought about it. That would lower the rig as much as I need, without having to do a ton of suspension work. It would probably just barely clear the sheet metal too, so I would not have as much work there either.

I have an extra pair of Yj springs, so I could have them done without having to wait for them.

I knew AZ was my home for more a good reason, thanks BlueSuzy, now I have anew direction to look

Yeah i though nik had some reversed suzuki springs, but cant find any in his pics.
It really depends on your setup. Don't you have the missing link? May rub on the shackles etc, im not too sure. Raising the belly is a good idea, on my old zook i would of smashed it plenty of times if i didnt. But that was a low Spua. Just basic boxtube/rhs, with the ring, 2" bodylift, 2" transfer lift, and alot of bashing in the floor for the ring, and top of ring cut down abit for bit more clearance. Never snapped a stock mount this way. The transfer ring would hit the floor before it broke the rubber under high torque situations. So its a good thing.

[skyman]

Yes, I am running the missing links, but I have no qualms about removing them, or welding them shut to run a lower spring. I didn't get them for the Crazy flex(although it's nice and balanced), I got it just to bolt the YJ's on easy enough. The Previous owner had destroyed every stock suspension mount there was so I needed something to start with.


Anyways back on topic, I would be happy to swap around the missing links to run a RE, or lower spring.


LOL, that's gold right there armsup a built in bump stop for your t-case.

Quote:

The transfer ring would hit the floor before it broke the rubber

I am high enough with the spring over the the case isn't too much of a worry, but I do find it is still the first thing to hit, when I do bottom out. I want some better protection under it(or lifted above the rails), as it is one of the most expensive parts to replace.

[BlueSuzy]

Another thing would be a bash plate. Simple enough to do. Makes your chassis smooth also. Mine used to get hung up on the crossmember also.

Chris_Mac designed one and bent one up using a grinder, retaining wall and a parking stop.
I welded it back up for him. Looks very neat.
Spoa, I know he has no BL. So no transfer lift.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=17160