[scorpydude]

Anyone know where I can get at the wire that goes to my speedo in the dash?

Best way / A way - I'll take anything.

Anyone know how I can identify it or track it or trace it or what colour it is?

I know it probably comes out of my transfer case, but I was hoping for something a little closer to the centre console.

Any info at all helps. Cheers.

[scorpydude]

Reason is I just finished building my my speedo corrector circuit and want to install it.

[steak_knife]

Pull the cluster out, don't pull speed sen from anywhere else..

the same speed sig run's air bag's & abs (if fitted) so speed sig's shouldn't be f*#ked with unless at the speedo head..

[Built4thrashing]

there is an easire way......... just buy a GPS.

how much is it out?

[scorpydude]

steak_knife, I thought the transfer case wire might run to the ECU and then a wire run from the ECU to the speedo... I'll pull the cluster out and try and find it.

Let's hope there isn't a massive bunch of wires and I'm none the wiser to which one it is lol

Built4thrashing, if a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right.

[fordem]

AFAIK - it runs straight from the transfer case to the speedo - tell me what year GV you have and I'll look up the colors and the pinout at the cluster for you.

Is the correction circuit a kit or a design of your own - care to share?

Edit - looks like blue with yellow stripe - however - depending on the year of manufacture, the clusters seem to be different.

[shabz]

Similar to this i assume...

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5435

[fordem]

Interesting - I didn't realise they shipped outside of Australia - I guess I could have it go to the US and then reroute to Guyana.

[scorpydude]

Thanks fordem ! It's a 2002 V6 Grand Vitara (Generation 2) without ABS but it does have Air Bags.

The kit is the above one from Jaycar

EDIT: Do I need to disconnect the aigbag fuse when pulling the cluster and cutting the speedo wire? If so, anyone know where the aigbag fuse is?

[royce]

scorpydude wrote:

Thanks fordem ! It's a 2002 V6 Grand Vitara (Generation 2) without ABS but it does have Air Bags.

The kit is the above one from Jaycar

EDIT: Do I need to disconnect the aigbag fuse when pulling the cluster and cutting the speedo wire? If so, anyone know where the aigbag fuse is?

safest way is to disconnect the battery and come back 20 mins later and do it

[fordem]

As far as I can tell an '02 is slightly different to the earlier models - the speedometer signal is a blue with yellow stripe wire, but from the sensor on the transfer case it appears to go to the ECM/PCM, (engine control module/powertrain control module), the BCM (body control module) and the cluster.

It should connect to the cluster on pin6 of G11 which is a twenty pin connector (two rows of ten pins each)

[scorpydude]

Thanks Royce and Fordem that's some very important info!

Will let you know how I go. Just searching around for the instruction steps to take out the cluster.

[fordem]

Removing the cluster?

I'm not certain about the 02 but on a 98 there are four screws to remove the dash over the cluster, two of which are buried deep down (drop the steering wheel to the lowest and look in the gap you just created), the other two are at the top and easy to see.

Once that comes out there will be four more screws and the cluster will pull forward far enough that you can reach behind it and unplug the harnesses.

[scorpydude]

fordem your like a suzuki encyclopaedia dude, thanks very much.

[fordem]

Not really - when I got my GV, it had some wiring issues behind the cluster - so I have the diagrams and I've been in behind there.

I drove my first Suzuki almost three decades ago, and currently have two (I think we've had as many as nine in the family over the years) so if what you're working on happens to coincide with what I have worked on in the past, then I might have the answer you're looking for - but I believe there are guys on here that work on these things and really know them inside out

[scorpydude]

fordem and steak_knife... i thought you guys might like to see the outcome of your generous help...

I just finished installing my speedo corrector. I goto say, I completly under-estimated how much effort would go into installing this thing. Quite a long afternoon. It's in now and I just finished driving on the gateway motorway at exactly 100 according to my speedo to look up and see both my phone and my sisters tom tom say i'm doing 100km/h. Damn that felt good. Rewarded myself with a V on the way home

Some pics...

The entire dash had to come out (almost!) and later I even took off the steering wheel cover Zzz.



Finding a good +12V and ground




The intercept wires to the speedo wire - cutting this took some balls lol at the time i cut this I didnt know if my circuit even worked or if I even had the correct speedo wire (I was going off a suggestion from someone gave me on AusZookers). So it was really firing into the dark. All worked out that so thats good.



Testing! Up until this moment I was having serious doubts if I the circuit even worked, if I found a correct 12V and most of all, if I even had the correct speedo wire. Talk about stressful (perhaps I needed some beer... but couldn't because this was the type of testing where you have to go for 1minute drives to calibrate the device after each setting change)

[scorpydude]

With happiness there is sadness though... I just noticed my clutch pedal felt a little light. When I got back home after testing it at 100km/h successfully I checked my clutch fluid. The reservoir is completely empty.

I only just filled it about a month or two ago. Sigh.

[fordem]

I'm glad to hear it worked - but - it would be so nice if I could actually see the pictures

I don't understand why you had to pull the entire dash out though - maybe the 98's are different I have a black panel over my cluster - four screws & five minutes and the panel is off, four more screws and another five minutes and the cluster is in my lap.

[steak_knife]

fordem wrote:

I'm glad to hear it worked - but - it would be so nice if I could actually see the pictures

I don't understand why you had to pull the entire dash out though - maybe the 98's are different I have a black panel over my cluster - four screws & five minutes and the panel is off, four more screws and another five minutes and the cluster is in my lap.

All the Sq's....

For you clutch leak, stick you head up under the dash & look at the peddle, I can almost bet the rear of the master is weeping ( ), the carpet & noise insulation hide's the leak, but you should notice a stain running down the firewall..

Good work with the speedo..

[fordem]

Now that I've seen the pictures and figured out what's going on - you could have gotten a +12V switched ignition feed (pin 14, black/white) on that same connector behind the cluster - ah well - it works.

[scorpydude]

Fordem - Yeah you guessed correctly, I took the 12V and 0V/Earth from the sterio/UHF as I wasnt sure if anything on the cluster would have a fuse or not. So I thought rather then having to wait to talk to you guys again, i'll just take it from somewhere I know is safe/fused.

Steak_knife - Yep, your spot on. As wet/leaking as a working girl on a friday night. Would you like to quote me up on replacing my clutch master and slave if your interested (PM?)

[scorpydude]

Hrm... a quick check around the resiouvar and the slave clyinder looks ok (but doesnt mean I didnt miss something).

Clear signs of leaking near the pedal though... sigh. What a massive job replacing this and recalibrating the clutch point will be... I'm thinking I'll need to get a mechanic to do it.

[fordem]

It's not that hard, and there is no "recalibration" - it's "self adjusting.

From under the dash - use a long nose pliers to grab the retaining clip (looks like a split pin) and pull it free, and remove the pin from the pushrod, then go under the hood, remove the clutch line where it connects to the master cylinder, remove the two nuts and pull the cylinder out.

Reassembly is the reverse.

The hardest part is bleeding it and only because it needs two people.

Yes - that just happens to be one of the tasks I've had to do on my GV - grab your camera and document it - make another how to

[royce]

before you put the new one in, fill it with fluid and push the push rod in and out a few times (Away from the car, will shoot fluid everywhere) till the air is out, then refit it, you might not even need to bleed the clutch

[steak_knife]

X2 on the above 2 post's....

[scorpydude]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Clutch-Master-Cy ... _899wt_905

That doesn't look right? Shouldn't it be split into two parts? One for the bit that goes to the pedal and the other bit (the reservoir), joined by a lead?

[steak_knife]

scorpydude wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Suzuki-Grand-Vitara-XL7-/230559291078?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ae6796c6#ht_899wt_905

That doesn't look right? Shouldn't it be split into two parts? One for the bit that goes to the pedal and the other bit (the reservoir), joined by a lead?

I don't remember them having a remote reservoir...
That look's like the one..... go have a look, take ya camera..

[shabz]

scorpydude wrote:

Hrm... a quick check around the resiouvar and the slave clyinder looks ok (but doesnt mean I didnt miss something).

Clear signs of leaking near the pedal though... sigh. What a massive job replacing this and recalibrating the clutch point will be... I'm thinking I'll need to get a mechanic to do it.

I've done this before......quite simple. The piston inside has a rubber o-ring, and its worn. Thats why its leaking inside.

Buy a new piston from suzuki - was about 80 bucks from memory.
Remove the cylinder from the car, install new piston, re-install.
Only takes an hour or two all up. the worst part is the fluid can be a bit messy.

[fordem]

It's not really an O ring - although it is round black & made of rubber

Look closely and you'll see it has a rectangular profile and a taper with a lip (and there are two of them), and whilst it should be possible to just replace the seals - given the price, it's about the same as replacing the entire clutch master cylinder, and that's a lot easier to do.

[scorpydude]

steak_knife wrote:

scorpydude wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Suzuki-Grand-Vitara-XL7-/230559291078?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ae6796c6#ht_899wt_905

That doesn't look right? Shouldn't it be split into two parts? One for the bit that goes to the pedal and the other bit (the reservoir), joined by a lead?

I don't remember them having a remote reservoir...
That look's like the one..... go have a look, take ya camera..

Right you are steak_knife!



I just thought for some reason that pipe running down was running to the actual piston on the pedal, because when your under the dash it feels like your alot lower then that - if you know what I mean.

But as you prob know that pipe just runs to the slave cylinder

(I'm still keenly learning!)