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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:47 am 
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i want to do a spring over and i was just wondering what/how other people did theres

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 7:56 am 
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hey mate its quite a bit more work then meets the eye have u done much reading about it have u looked at shanes build up

http://auszookers.com/index.php?name=Fo ... shane+spoa

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:15 am 
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i have the weld on self aligning spring pads if you want to buy

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:19 am 
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yea i red it before when he was building it it lookes ausame but i dont want a bodylift yet i have 31's now with new shockys and i have done everything elce to my car i was just wondering if they could give me some pros and cons of the spoa and what you can and carnt run

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92sierra ht 33s 5in lift 2in zorst gti powered

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:28 am 
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Why do you want a SPOA?

You don't need SPOA for flex or even if you want larger tyres. You can run 34's with 2" springs and a 2" bodylift. And you can get pretty decent flex out of the same setup.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:36 am 
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yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:41 am 
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if i get a body lift and 2 in springs would i need to get it engineared

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:42 am 
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Bennyzarb wrote:
yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around


Do some more research on springs. If its only 31's you want to run you are better of with a bodylift and springs. Down the track, when you go a larger engine or gearbox, you will be thankfull the bodylift is in.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:44 am 
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i already run 31s with extended shackles

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:44 am 
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i once tried asking how to do a spring over right and it ended up being a bullshit slanging match

so maybe this time people who have done the job could say what they did and if it worked.
if it didnt work what went wrong etc.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:52 am 
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Bennyzarb wrote:
extended shackles



First bad.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:58 am 
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shep wrote:
i once tried asking how to do a spring over right and it ended up being a bullshit slanging match

so maybe this time people who have done the job could say what they did and if it worked.
if it didnt work what went wrong etc.


good point

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:58 am 
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yea i know i want to get rid of them

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:00 am 
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step 1: Consult an engineer

step 2: Spend LOTS of money getting it right

step 3: Consult engineer

step 4: Fix things he points out

step 5: Consult engineer

etc.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:23 am 
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Bennyzarb wrote:
yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around

if i get a body lift and 2 in springs would i need to get it engineared


Legally a bodylift needs to be engineered. But so does a SPOA. And I can almost guarantee that SPOA would cost more and be way more hassle than a BL to get engineered.

If you used 2" Old Man Emu spings all round i.e. Put rear springs up front (RUF), and chucked in some cheap commodore/hiace shocks from supercheap, then you would get good flex and also quite a smooth ride (well as smooth as you can get in a zook :lol: ) If you only want 31's then this setup is perfect 8)

i suggest you check out these guys buildups below. They all have similar setups, flex well, run 33's minimum and probably have a smoother ride than most zooks.
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=5148
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=5582
http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... pic&t=2072

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:16 am 
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Bennyzarb wrote:
yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around


You do realise that SPOA requires stiffer springs than SPUA to control axlewrap?

Steve.

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:31 am 
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meh, thats what track bars are for =P haha

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:35 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Bennyzarb wrote:
yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around


You do realise that SPOA requires stiffer springs than SPUA to control axlewrap?

Steve.

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Not if you do it wright! So as the others have said , spend lots of money in the wright place.

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Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:57 am 
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kenn wrote:
Gwagensteve wrote:
Bennyzarb wrote:
yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around


You do realise that SPOA requires stiffer springs than SPUA to control axlewrap?

Steve.

8O
Not if you do it wright! So as the others have said , spend lots of money in the wright place.


Mr Kenn you seem to be an expert in all this, so how do you do it right?

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Vehicle: '92 Sierra, 1.6efi, SPOA, 31s.

Post Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:11 pm 
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perches
rear leaves all round
chassis extension
new mounts up front
brake lines
driveshafts
shock towers
shocks
bump stops
trac bar/s

i think thats about it?

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:23 am 
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kenn wrote:
Not if you do it wright! So as the others have said , spend lots of money in the wright place.


And you are going coils because? :D

There's more leverage on the spring in a SPOA application, so more leaves are required to hold a higher rate and control wrap.

It's basic physics.

That's not to say a SPOA can't ride well, only that it needs more spring rate which normally hurts ride.

I was mostly commenting on the blanket comment that the reason to SPOA is to have a good ride, which is nonsense - both SPOA and SPUA cars can ride well, but it's harder to build a SPOA car to ride well because more spring rate is required.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:32 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
kenn wrote:
Not if you do it wright! So as the others have said , spend lots of money in the wright place.


And you are going coils because? :D

Steve.


because kenn has the hots for joes wife, and its a good reason to visit :wink:

either that or kenn has the hots for joe :no:

or joe got on the piss and decided to get some plasma cutter practice on kenns cars first :twisted:

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:07 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
kenn wrote:
Not if you do it wright! So as the others have said , spend lots of money in the wright place.


And you are going coils because? :D

There's more leverage on the spring in a SPOA application, so more leaves are required to hold a higher rate and control wrap.

It's basic physics.

That's not to say a SPOA can't ride well, only that it needs more spring rate which normally hurts ride.

I was mostly commenting on the blanket comment that the reason to SPOA is to have a good ride, which is nonsense - both SPOA and SPUA cars can ride well, but it's harder to build a SPOA car to ride well because more spring rate is required.

Steve.

Because I can :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 2:10 am 
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JrZook wrote:
kenn wrote:
Gwagensteve wrote:
Bennyzarb wrote:
yea but the spring are a lot stiffer and wont allow for the travel i dont want to be shaken around i want it to flex around


You do realise that SPOA requires stiffer springs than SPUA to control axlewrap?

Steve.

8O
Not if you do it wright! So as the others have said , spend lots of money in the wright place.


Mr Kenn you seem to be an expert in all this, so how do you do it right?


Firstly you get a set of standard springs and place ONE Old Man Emu extra leafe in each pack. This will give you a better rate but not anywhere near that of aftermarket springs. Secondly to reduce the pinion from wanting to climb up under power you fit lower diff gears (higher numericaly). This will transmit power to the axles at a much smoother rate and lessen the rotational forces on the axle housing under power. Thirdly you build a good torque rod with bonded bushes to control the diff housing rotation a little more. Bonded bushes are great as they give some leway in all directions and don't give mounts a hard time. The further above the housing the rod is mounted the better.



But seriously, if its just 31's don't do a spring over.


And in all fairness Steve you allways bring up shit like 'oh.....but your going coils'....blah blah blah.

We are going coils becuase we can. Kenns car performed fantasticaly the way it was, but with all the extra stuff being made for it at the moment the decision was made to go coils. I don't like sitting on my hands all the time doing the same 'ol stuff. And when people see Kenny's vehicle and its great wheel travel I'm sure they will ask 'how did you get Vitara coils to do that?".......




Design it right.....same applies for a SPOA.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:19 am 
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Ok I won't do the spoa I will get a 2 in body lift and 2in springs already have commo shocks in front and hilux shocks in rear thanks everyone for convincing me this will be alot cheaper

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