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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:51 am 
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hi'
whats the cheaps way to get more flex out of a zook.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:55 am 
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RUF, and 323 rears.. but you will need shocks to suit.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:57 am 
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whats a 323 ?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 2:04 am 
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mazda 323 its a car

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 2:43 am 
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Be carefull, Norm hasnt done anything about his flex :lol:

I'm experimenting atm. I have 323 wagon rear springs...Alot of problems though..

If you havent already, Playing with the packs you have now might be an idea..Remove leafs etc..

If you have your swaybar, Throw it...

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:50 am 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
If you have your swaybar, Throw it...


x2 i took it out of mine and the difference was pretty big... just cant attack the corners as hard now though...

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:14 am 
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easiest way without having to lengthen the chassis is extended shackles and 1/2 ruf on the front, 2" lifted rear springs and vr commodore wagon shocks for the front and hilux shocks for the back. I read about this method on another forum and will be doing it in the next few weeks :wink:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:43 pm 
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What about just removing some of the load leaves to begin with?

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:48 pm 
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basketcase wrote:
What about just removing some of the load leaves to begin with?


yeap i'd just do that, and make sure all your bushes are lubricated. Makes for a nicer ride aswell.

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:17 pm 
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BlueSuzy wrote:
Be carefull, Norm hasnt done anything about his flex :lol:

I'm experimenting atm. I have 323 wagon rear springs...Alot of problems though..

If you havent already, Playing with the packs you have now might be an idea..Remove leafs etc..

If you have your swaybar, Throw it...


hehehe i got this info from you :thefinger: i just didnt put the "Trademark" symbol at the end :lol:
and yes he is right, i aint done shit for more flex as yet.. :cry: but it flexes alright ATM.. just waiting for some zook rears for the front.. :twisted:

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 11:49 pm 
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You won't get any more travel without longer shocks,no matter what you do with your springs.Parts suppliers have data tables on extended and contracted lengths.Mine were 2nd hand off a Daihatsu, cost nothing and it can ramp its wheelbase.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:21 am 
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i'm doing a RUF but i dnt won't 2 extend chassis and i go 2" exstended shackel all round

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:36 am 
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you will have to move your front spring mount back a bit then if you don't want the ext the chassis or longer shackels

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 3:11 am 
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so if you move the mount back you can run standard shackles? i thought you had to do both

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 1:15 pm 
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you only have to move the rear mount back but watch out for the wheels hitting the rear of the wheel arch. i'd be just doing a ruf with longer shackels because it will move your diff forward and have less trouble fitting bigger wheels.

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Post Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 5:04 am 
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how easy RUF is depends on if you have a WT or a NT. Wt is easy. re-drill the rear spring hanger back 25mm and use longer shackles and diff will remain in stock position. re-drill diff perches to move diff if you want. you can run longer shocks if you do bump stop spaces or lift top mount up.


at the rear longer shocks and removeing leaves will improve travel but longer springs are best. Use the main leaf from a Mazda 323 with a re-drilled front sierra milatary wrap spring and the rest of the rear sierra pack (3rd and 4th leaf) will maintain ride height and give more flex.

Longer springs is only useable if ya run longer shackles and move the upper shock mounts.

Flexy springs only work if the shocks are long enough

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:39 am 
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i have a coily sierra and was just wondering how much better it would be if i was to remove the sway bar? and would it be safe as it is my daily driver?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 4:34 pm 
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i've got a NT zook. what are the differents between NT and WT

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:20 pm 
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hooki... lots of people remove the sway bar and don't have a problem and get more flex, and don't roll over going around corners, not to say that you wont though :lol:

tonka... the diffs are longer/wider & the springs are further apart on the WT

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:58 pm 
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we should have a topic dedicated to RUF for all these questions.

is it an all day job or an afternoon job?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:29 pm 
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i'm about to do a ruf on the wt i'm selling. i'll get some pics if people want?

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:19 pm 
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Zook_Fan wrote:
we should have a topic dedicated to RUF for all these questions.

is it an all day job or an afternoon job?


I think that all depends on how far you want to go with it. To do it 100% you should do a chassis extension. But can be partially done by bolting it on depending on shackle length.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:58 pm 
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yeah i meant a 1/2 RUF

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 1:12 am 
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what leaf spring can you put in the rear to get more flexs

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:40 am 
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my shackels on the back are straight up and down and they dnt move when flexing. any one know what the problem mayb

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:43 am 
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do you have stock springs that have been reset with an extra leaf fitted?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:04 am 
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nah. got a 2" iron man leaf

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