[RIKSTR]

I need to work out how to make a 98 Jimny stop better. It does not have ABS.

I have been told that LWB Vitara front discs and calipers will bolt straight up and work better.

Is this true?

Is there any other way to make a Jimny stop better?

[zuk85]

Im under the impression that to increase a car stopping force you must inscrease the booster and line size. other wise you will still have the same force from stock applied, Just too bigger callipers and discs.

[RIKSTR]

I believe the concept is that with the same force applied you get a bigger braking area from the larger discs and pads thus giving a stonger braking perfomance. I think

[tim80z]

Apparently Piranha make a rear disc conversion. Don't know how much...



- Tim.

[lump_a_charcoal]

Shit that bar looks good!

[89_tintop]

from my underatanding you are right about the lwb vitara brakes..

similar mods needed for the sierra conversion.

[lordviper556]

id love a better set of brakes, also want to piss off the drums on the back. i hate drum brakes im up for a new set in mine

[stocker]

Thought about a Decent set of Pad's and Disc's???

We just fitted RDA Slotted Rotors and Pro Street Pad's to my girls Jimny and it stops on the dime now. also readjusted the rear brakes whilst i was at it. and rebuilt the drum cylinders.

[smiffkid]

i cant seem to find a rear disc conversion on there website,
i would love better brakes, the 31s just make those little brake work so hard

[zuk85]

RIKSTR wrote:

I believe the concept is that with the same force applied you get a bigger braking area from the larger discs and pads thus giving a stonger braking perfomance. I think

[shakes]

Bigger calipers on bigger rotors means more contact area when applied= more stopping.

Slotted rotors means cooler temps which means better braking (not always you can go too cold but thats more to do with the pad than rotor)

Smaller MC in relation to you new bigger calipers means they dont push enough fluid.. loss of pedal feel and possible loss of braking depending on sizing.

First stop is change the fluid with some higher end stuff. And get a good quality pad. After that I'm no help sorry.

[RIKSTR]

stocker wrote:

Thought about a Decent set of Pad's and Disc's???

We just fitted RDA Slotted Rotors and Pro Street Pad's to my girls Jimny and it stops on the dime now. also readjusted the rear brakes whilst i was at it. and rebuilt the drum cylinders.

I have been told by a few companies that they dont do anything but stock stuff for Jimny brakes

[stocker]

I had to go to RDA themselves to get them. and the Prostreet pads, i had measured up got a set off something else that was really close, had to do a little filing around the Locating knob's but i got them to fit, and they work really really well now

[Reubs]

smiffkid wrote:

i cant seem to find a rear disc conversion on there website,
i would love better brakes, the 31s just make those little brake work so hard

Have you 'adjusted' (lengthened) the brake proportioning valve spring when you lifted the car? Maybe your rear drums aren't actually doing anything?

Coily Sierras have a similar system.

[smiffkid]

well the rear drums are working im pretty sure of it,
its just the amount of leverage the 31s give it, even after putting new pads on the front

[monley]

I seen a rear disc conversion on ebay, but carn't find it again, it was a good price too.

[Built4thrashing]

Same as sierra . Get some LWB vitara brakes. Almost a bolt on solution. Just need to trip the stone guard with soime tin snips.

[zuk85]

shakes wrote:

Bigger calipers on bigger rotors means more contact area when applied= more stopping.

Slotted rotors means cooler temps which means better braking (not always you can go too cold but thats more to do with the pad than rotor)

Smaller MC in relation to you new bigger calipers means they dont push enough fluid.. loss of pedal feel and possible loss of braking depending on sizing.

First stop is change the fluid with some higher end stuff. And get a good quality pad. After that I'm no help sorry.

will just end up with more efficent braking, heat disspersent/ and no glaze pads. but still no improvement in braking strength that actually stops the car.

its like me slapping you in the face with my standard arm and hand. Then slapping you in the face with a bigger hand but standard size arm still same strength slap, just more area hit. need bigger muscle to increase more pain.

thats what i was taught and believe, but im not trying to start any fights please I do agree that increase disc and better pads will help but not increase to best potential while the rear disc conversion should help a bucket load better :D:D:D:D

everyones opinion matters :D helps the person deicide whats best for them :D

[shakes]

zuk85 wrote:

will just end up with more efficent braking, heat disspersent/ and no glaze pads. but still no improvement in braking strength that actually stops the car.

its like me slapping you in the face with my standard arm and hand. Then slapping you in the face with a bigger hand but standard size arm still same strength slap, just more area hit. need bigger muscle to increase more pain.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

But in my experience that bigger muscle is your foot pressing a mushy horrible feeling pedal if you only upsize the caliper. Upgrading the brakes with the correct sized MC you will keep the ratio's between everything right for nice pedal travel/feel and good braking.

Bigger caliper means more fluid movement/displacement needed to press the pad against the rotor.. You get this to a point from the pedal. and then you need to upsize your Master Cylinder... You still end up with the same pressure as the lines, pedal stroke/ratio are still all the same, just more fluid is displaced to account for the bigger caliper.

When you go bigger again, and start getting into high end full custom stuff. Then pedal ratio's, line sizes etc is where it gets alot trickier.

Don't take that as gospel, just my experience and understanding.

[royce]

shakes wrote:

zuk85 wrote:

will just end up with more efficent braking, heat disspersent/ and no glaze pads. but still no improvement in braking strength that actually stops the car.

its like me slapping you in the face with my standard arm and hand. Then slapping you in the face with a bigger hand but standard size arm still same strength slap, just more area hit. need bigger muscle to increase more pain.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

But in my experience that bigger muscle is your foot pressing a mushy horrible feeling pedal if you only upsize the caliper. Upgrading the brakes with the correct sized MC you will keep the ratio's between everything right for nice pedal travel/feel and good braking.

Bigger caliper means more fluid movement/displacement needed to press the pad against the rotor.. You get this to a point from the pedal. and then you need to upsize your Master Cylinder... You still end up with the same pressure as the lines, pedal stroke/ratio are still all the same, just more fluid is displaced to account for the bigger caliper.

When you go bigger again, and start getting into high end full custom stuff. Then pedal ratio's, line sizes etc is where it gets alot trickier.

Don't take that as gospel, just my experience and understanding.

saying bigger caliper is too vague in this instance

bigger PISTON requires more fluid to move a given distance so for the same master cylinder the pedal will move more and feel less solid (but some would say ore progressive) it will also squeeze the pads harder for a given pedal input so its a trade off

Bigger PADS in a given caliper will provide more friction so stop better, also will take longer to get too hot, likewise all a vented rotor does is allows it to cool faster, the standard brake capacity test for ADR's involves accelerating the braking flat out over and over a number of times without fade, so better cooling helps

bigger diameter rotors also provide more leverage, imagine trying to lift something by wedging a stick under and edge, longer the stick the easier to lift

in the case of the lwb we have bigger pads vented rotors and slightly bigger diameter, but same piston size (I think)

[monley]

What would be the best way to improve the braking system in a jimny with ABS?

Would bigger rotors and pads be the go?

[shakes]

royce wrote:

bigger PISTON requires more fluid to move a given distance so for the same master cylinder the pedal will move more and feel less solid (but some would say ore progressive) it will also squeeze the pads harder for a given pedal input so its a trade off

I was close, Explain that one to me... can't quite get my head around it.

smaller orifice, higher pressure? or am I way off?

[royce]

http://science.howstuffworks.com/transp ... aulic1.htm

an extreme of the same principal is a jack

[shakes]

perfect, thanks :LOL:

[Built4thrashing]

when i did the brake upgrade in the sierra by fitting just bigger calipers and pads the difference was quite substantial. There was nothing wrong with the stock brakes i just wanted it to be better.
The piston in the two callipers were the same but the LWB pads were bigger. pedal feel was the same as caliper piston is the same but the contact area is better. more friction area. better stopping.

The next step is to increase your master cly size. Many do this with a MQ patrol master and booster. Others just replace the sierra master with one from a subi forester. same bolt patern but it ups in size from 7/8 to 1 1/18 bore diameter. You just need to bend the brake lines into new positions.

[BertZook]

tim80z wrote:

Apparently Piranha make a rear disc conversion. Don't know how much...

- Tim.

they ready have like a year since that picture or flyer started to go around some forums and 4wd stores, but still they havent upload their website

and for I can remember their prices were really expensive .... but well maybe they have done some changes by now who knows

[VAXXi]

disc brake conversion kit from Italy - Zanfi

But it's very expensive.