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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 4:20 am 
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PART 1: well my vit had been making a horrid noise and narrowed it down to wheel bearings, thought i would do a write up. this is how how i did it, if anything is incorrect please add ur opinion.

jack up the front end, place on jack stand and remove wheel.
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next is to remove the caliper, there are 2x 17mm bolts that hold it on. they will be tight.
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move caliper to the side and out of the way.
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remove brake disk, i used a soft faced hammer. just tape it and rotate then tape some more and it will come off.
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next thing, is to remove the free-wheeling hub. it has 6x 12mm bolts.
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showing this
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remove the 4 screw carefully, they round off easily so hit screw driver into them before trying to undo.
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exposing this:
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now, you can either use a special socket or use a punch and a hammer :) these will be VERY tight, i almost gave up. if you cant move it by hitting one of the holes, try another and it may help. if not, get a bigger hammer 8O
once the retaining ring has been wound off, you should be able to give the hub a yank and it should come off.
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Image
this little ring will sit between the bearings and the retainer.
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at this stage, you need to press out the bearings, remove the seals and you will see a cer-clip, remove this first. i took it to work and did it. depending on the condition of the bearings you could do it with a small 6t press but could take up to 20t. these bearings are new (installed w.e before) but my hub was rooted. so i got a new hub and seals. end of part 1.....
Mitch


Last edited by shandy92 on Tue Sep 17, 2013 12:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 4:34 am 
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PART 2:
this is the ring and where it sits:
Image
old vs new
Image
Image
i put some new/more grease onto the back of the freewheeling hub:
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new hub with bearing in:
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new seals in, make sure they face the correct way. the inner seal should have the flappy bit facing out. the outer has a metal ring on the base so can only go 1 way...its the same direction as inner seal.
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fit onto axle, fit retaining ring and tighten up as much as possible...untill it wont move anymore but make sure the outer locking ring holes lines up, if not, undo or tighten more so the screws can go in:
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fit ring and insert 4 screws, as tight as you can do them up.
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fit freewheeling hub and tighten the 6x 12mm bolts.
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fit disk:
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then refit caliper and tighten the 2x 17mm bolts. it can be awkward to line the bolt holes up, no real easy way to do.
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fit wheel, remove stand(s) and then go for a drive to make sure its all good.
job done :D

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:09 am 
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Great tech.

Love the safety shoes :lol:

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:12 am 
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TheOtherLeft wrote:
Great tech.

Love the safety shoes :lol:


thanks mate. ahah, good strong stuff. i actually stubbed my big toe really badly that nite to :(

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 7:30 am 
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:goodtech: nice one mitch, you've given me motivation to do the wheel bearings on the silver princess.

did you use a torque wrench when doing them up or was it the hammer & punch method?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 7:44 am 
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Good stuff :D
You forgot the circlips :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:17 am 
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i hope that's High Temp Bearing grease.. (HTB)

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 1:33 pm 
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yeah i did put the circlips in, after i did it i shot past suzukistore and got them to check it and all was good :D

ahah gee, never thought i would be the motivator of the all mighty silver princess.....thanks.

nah i didnt have excess to the special tool, just used the hammer and punch method. i got the screws in but then thought that i could give it another 1/16th (distance between holes) but couldnt, so put it back.

steak knify- pretty sure it is, my mate said that it would be fine.

Mitch

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:52 pm 
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Good tech Mitch, how were your kingpins?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:11 pm 
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Lockie666 wrote:
Good tech Mitch, how were your kingpins?


:? On a vit????? :?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 11:33 pm 
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steak_knife wrote:
Lockie666 wrote:
Good tech Mitch, how were your kingpins?


:? On a vit????? :?


x2, pretty sure they were awesome as i dont have them ahah.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 6:47 am 
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Lol IFS :( I had a few beers last night

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:23 am 
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Hey guys, I bought these bearings http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Wheel- ... 5d2ec786f0 and I've spent this arvo pulling it all apart and the bearings inside don't look like these?!?!?!??! they are tapered at one end and there are 2 of them in there. please help.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:30 am 
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So I just pulled the passenger side off and the bearing is the correct one. But the drivers side one is not right?? can someone please confirm if these bearings are the right ones or not.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:49 am 
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if the while thing fits its right, some will be tapered, some wont

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:09 am 
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ok, so you reckon, if it fits it should be ok then?

It's weird, the ones on the right were the tapered ones and there was gouging where the bearings sit and the threaded washer was hard to get off. but the left side, it was all pretty good and the threaded washer was finger tight.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:30 am 
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royce wrote:
if the while thing fits its right, some will be tapered, some wont


WTF???? Tapered bearing on one side and parallel (I assume) on the other...Suzuki can't be that bad can they???

Or is it the case of Suzuki picking from the spare parts bin again?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:32 am 
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I assume one has already been replaced at one stage

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:54 am 
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royce wrote:
I assume one has already been replaced at one stage


Yeah that was my assumption too. The tapered ones were all loose and horrible.

I haven't finished the job yet since i ran out of daylight. Do you suggest I try to hammer the bearings into place or get them pressed? I did the rear axle bearings with 2 mates and it was very hard to hammer them on.

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:56 am 
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mate if you get to a press it will be a lot better and a more controlled fit. i used a big 60T press but that the only one i had access to.

its not hard to do, just make sure you dont round off the screws for the locking washer thing!

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:30 am 
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OK no probs, yeah i'll probably just get them pressed, safer that way.

As for the screws..... yeah someone before me has already ruined them. drivers side only had 1 and it had a hole drilled in it, for a screw extracer i'm guessing. I think I've found some screws that are the right size, any ideas where to get more from if these don't fit?

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Post Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 10:48 am 
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ahah 1 that pretty lucky that you caught that. so yeah try find a full set. do you have a coventry fastener shop or any other nut and bolt that near you? but its sunday tomorrow, so good luck.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:20 am 
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So, I've done it now. Here's a pic of my goodies and in the second pic it's me being impatient. I couldn't get to a mechanic today to press my bearings so I made my own press :D I know I know, your probably all jealous of the quality, but sorry it's not for sale. :crazy: :blink:

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:04 am 
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ahaha mate thats awesome, well done. would never of thought of doing that myself.

how much the cv and shafts cost? if you dont mind.

driving now??

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:09 am 
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Drives great. CV and shaft complete both sides $220.

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:24 am 
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Microwire wrote:
Drives great. CV and shaft complete both sides $220.


well done, hmmm not bad. is one side more than the other or are they $110 a side?

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Post Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:02 pm 
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I bought them as a set, but on the invoice it was $110 per side. I probably could have found them cheaper but it was a bit of an 'I just want to get it sorted now' moment.

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Post Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 12:13 pm 
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was surfing the tube & came across this wheelbearing vid


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Post Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 12:07 pm 
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I am just in the process of doing the passenger side front bearing.....and it came off with two separate roller bearings in it, wasn't loose, the lock-nut was very tight. Put a standard replacement one back in, haven't looked at the drivers side yet, will be interested to see what it has.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 8:43 pm 
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did this about a week ago, was changing the drivers cv yesterday and found that my week old bearing had play in it, not happy

what do you think could cause this? only thing i can think of is not using the tool to torque it down (i used a hammer and punch)
when i did the job the first time round i was expecting the threaded ring to be "tight" but it was the opposite, it undid with a light tap of the hammer

bit of a long shot but someone might have had a similar issue

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