[TryHard]

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

[Fatzook]

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

[TryHard]

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

get rid reverse shackle

[Goldy]

Only this month have I started learning ANYTHING about cars, knew how to drive them before and that was it.
Moving your front diff forward is achieved by a RUF or are they 2 different methods?

Just a pic of the front shackles of the 5" Calmini lift, I'd be replacing these with the same shackles as the rear to do this I'm assuming?

[Goldy]

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

[boostedbrick]

Goldy wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

To move the diff forward on the front spring, you can either redrill the perch on the axel but i think you are limited to maybe 25mm this way. Or redrill the spring pack further forward.

NFI on how RUF will work with that shackel reversal tho..

[Goldy]

boostedbrick wrote:

Goldy wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

To move the diff forward on the front spring, you can either redrill the perch on the axel but i think you are limited to maybe 25mm this way. Or redrill the spring pack further forward.

NFI on how RUF will work with that shackel reversal tho..

Half sure a RUF is just rear springs on the front, but might avoid that and go with moving my diff forward as much as possible and cutting from there.

[Fatzook]

boostedbrick wrote:

Goldy wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

To move the diff forward on the front spring, you can either redrill the perch on the axel but i think you are limited to maybe 25mm this way. Or redrill the spring pack further forward.

NFI on how RUF will work with that shackel reversal tho..

This is true, but keep in mind that re-drilling the perch and sliding the axle forward on the spring will rotate the diff too. In Goldys case it would drop the pinion angle slightly. Depending on where the diff sits now in relation to castor, it may make it better or it may get worse. Certainly wouldn't help driveshaft angles though.

[boostedbrick]

Fatzook wrote:

boostedbrick wrote:

Goldy wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

To move the diff forward on the front spring, you can either redrill the perch on the axel but i think you are limited to maybe 25mm this way. Or redrill the spring pack further forward.

NFI on how RUF will work with that shackel reversal tho..

This is true, but keep in mind that re-drilling the perch and sliding the axle forward on the spring will rotate the diff too. In Goldys case it would drop the pinion angle slightly. Depending on where the diff sits now in relation to castor, it may make it better or it may get worse. Certainly wouldn't help driveshaft angles though.

That just made me go and have a look at my front diff.. So that would mean those caster wedges then to fix pinion angle?

[TryHard]

boostedbrick wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

boostedbrick wrote:

Goldy wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

To move the diff forward on the front spring, you can either redrill the perch on the axel but i think you are limited to maybe 25mm this way. Or redrill the spring pack further forward.

NFI on how RUF will work with that shackel reversal tho..

This is true, but keep in mind that re-drilling the perch and sliding the axle forward on the spring will rotate the diff too. In Goldys case it would drop the pinion angle slightly. Depending on where the diff sits now in relation to castor, it may make it better or it may get worse. Certainly wouldn't help driveshaft angles though.

That just made me go and have a look at my front diff.. So that would mean those caster wedges then to fix pinion angle?

thats what there ment to do what is the idea pinion angle ment to be

[Fatzook]

boostedbrick wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

boostedbrick wrote:

Goldy wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

TryHard wrote:

also i think RUF would be good idea to move the tyre away from the fire wall ..

Yes it is. But in this case it will do sweet fuck all.

He has shackle reversal. So RUF will push the diff away from the fixed hanger. Which in this case will move the diff into the firewall.

nvm what I said, makes more sense after reading this... still don't know this difference with RUF & what it takes to move the diff forward though

To move the diff forward on the front spring, you can either redrill the perch on the axel but i think you are limited to maybe 25mm this way. Or redrill the spring pack further forward.

NFI on how RUF will work with that shackel reversal tho..

This is true, but keep in mind that re-drilling the perch and sliding the axle forward on the spring will rotate the diff too. In Goldys case it would drop the pinion angle slightly. Depending on where the diff sits now in relation to castor, it may make it better or it may get worse. Certainly wouldn't help driveshaft angles though.

That just made me go and have a look at my front diff.. So that would mean those caster wedges then to fix pinion angle?

Guess so. Your springs are sagged, so the effects will be lessened. Gold has new 3" springs, so any movement will exaggerate the effects. We still may only be talking about 1 or 2 degrees, but if its already out, that may be the straw that broke the badgers back.

[atari4x4]

Fatzook wrote:

that may be the straw that broke the honey badgers back.

The Honey Badger don't give a shit...

[Fatzook]

atari4x4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

that may be the straw that broke the honey badgers back.

The Honey Badger don't give a shit...

Hahahah " the sleepy fuck"

[TryHard]

atari4x4 wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

that may be the straw that broke the honey badgers back.

The Honey Badger don't give a shit...

haha awsome link

[Goldy]

haha naming my car the honey badger with a white soft top and black body paint now

[Fatzook]

Honey Badger don't give a shit

[TryHard]

Goldy wrote:

haha naming my car the honey badger with a white soft top and black body paint now

haha awsome name

[atari4x4]

Goldy wrote:

haha naming my car the honey badger with a white soft top and black body paint now

if anyone asks why honey badger... tell em cause honey badger don't give a shit, he's a badass.

[Joe]

[Teracis]

Could you drill the perches and then use shims to correct the angle now created by the curvature of the springs?

[crewsy]

If it was mine the plan of action would be:

- Get rid of shackle reversal
- Get some rears of same height springs
- Re drill spring hangar and fit rears to front
- Lose a leaf out of all 4 packs, so it will sag a little and be a bit lower and soften the packs up a little for flex
- Piss off that body lift since the spring lift is so huge
- Move the front diff forward an inch by re drilling the spring perch for better approach angle and will help to clear the firewall
- Put a front drive shaft spacer in
- Extend bump stops a little
- Massage the wheel wells first (may catch under the head light bucket so pay attention to that too)
- If it still scrubs after all of this, start cutting a bit of guard out until all is good

[crewsy]

There all this talk about big lifts, big tyres and flex... don't know whether you've thought about your brake lines being too short? Just incase you didn't know, they will need to be extended too

[shep]

mate if you want to hear what i did to overcome the problems you are facing send me a pm.
to many people in this thread dont know what they are talking about with regards to the calmini lift.

[Goldy]

got the extended braided brake lines & extended bump stops, the calmini suspension lift kit is actually really good thinking about all those things

cheers for the thoughts