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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:34 am 
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How hard and risky is it doing this yourself?

Ive gotten quotes from engine reco places from $80 to $140 for it...

But I know its possible to buy the hone tool and do it yourself...

This is my first engine rebuild, Ive got mates helping me, but none of them have actualy honed a cylinder before.. I know you have to get the right angle etc when doing it....

Should I just go ahead and let the pros that do it every day do it?


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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:45 am 
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The tool is close to that money. If your confident with your skills buy it. If your unsure you will end up spending alot more ;)

We have used a cheap drill fitting to hone the bores of a couple of cheapo rebuilds. Worked ok. but they were definately budget rebuilds.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:48 am 
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$80 to $140 for just a hone.... 8O
I rebuilt a 1.0 motor a while ago and 40 thou bore AND hone only cost $120.

If you have never done it before I'd suggest you at least watch someone do it before you attempt to... Get it wrong and your new engine will glaze bores and use lots of oil....

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 5:48 am 
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how have you determined your bore and pistons are alright to go with jsut a hone?

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:01 am 
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Mate i rebuilt a LS1 Gen 3 poo box, i ordered a FLEXI HONE from enginehones.com they were about 1/4 of the price than purchasing from Australia.

Flexihones last for years and they give a better finish than the springloaded 3 stoned hone, also they are a shit load easier to use.

you just need to know the bore size and match a flexi hone that is just a little bigger.

I can tell you now that for a 4" hone it cost me under $80 delivered from the states.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:14 am 
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royce wrote:
how have you determined your bore and pistons are alright to go with jsut a hone?


Thats another point... Im also considering just getting oversized pistons and rings and boreing it out.....

Does anybody have a an idea how much that costs? And is there anything else I have to change besides getting larger pistions and rings...

If I just get the hone job, Ill pay soemone to do it I think...

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:23 am 
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Buy a hone (mount in drill style) and grab a few lawn mowers (not 2 strokes!) or even better, an old car engine from the tip and practice. Only give your engine a light hone though, if it still has cross hatching I wouldn't bother.

It's pretty hard to fuck it up. :D The stones can be pretty fragile though. :x

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 6:53 am 
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I've always used a bead hone. Looks like a toilet brush with heaps of lead balls on the ends of the 'bristles'. Just cycle it up and down through the bore in a battery drill on a slow speed. :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:19 am 
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I've only ever know of bead hones until I saw a rock one at super cheap the other day.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 7:24 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
I've only ever know of bead hones until I saw a rock one at super cheap the other day.


Yeah you won't find many of those in pro engine shops.......

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:09 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
I've always used a bead hone. Looks like a toilet brush with heaps of lead balls on the ends of the 'bristles'. Just cycle it up and down through the bore in a battery drill on a slow speed. :wink:

Lead (Pb) Pete??? I don't think so Tim....

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:13 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
I've always used a bead hone. Looks like a toilet brush with heaps of lead balls on the ends of the 'bristles'. Just cycle it up and down through the bore in a battery drill on a slow speed. :wink:


Lol id love to see your hone job after using one of these :lol:
There's usually made of Silicon Carbide SiC (stuff I play with at uni) or Aluminium oxide (much the same as a knife sharpening stone)

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:19 am 
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sorry. I knew it was something soft.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:19 am 
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As others have said, a ball hone is much easier to use. Most pro engine builders will 'finish' hone a fresh bore by hand with these, after a machine hone with 'Sunnen' type machine.

Ball hones are expensive, better to pay someone to do it if you won't use the hone again.

And it is easy to stuff up, expecially with a cheap 3 leg stone hone and no experiance.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:21 am 
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um its not soft, its an abrasive

all you lot going yeah its easy bang it in a drill and off you go? you realise there is real specific angles, depths and overall material removal rates you need to adhere to dont you?

I guess it helps explain why so many people 'rebuild' engines that then proceed to still be shit or last a year before shitting themselves

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:29 am 
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honing is a real art form, it is best to spend the money and get it done by a person who does it all the time, it takes an awful lot of practice to get the correct angles and material removal rates, not to mention lubrication rates etc, i have done a 4 year apprenticeship and am only just getting to the stage where i am really happy with the quality of my honing, however getting practice on cheap, non important items such as lawnmovers etc is the best way to learn

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:36 am 
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mattybish wrote:
honing is a real art form, it is best to spend the money and get it done by a person who does it all the time, it takes an awful lot of practice to get the correct angles and material removal rates, not to mention lubrication rates etc, i have done a 4 year apprenticeship and am only just getting to the stage where i am really happy with the quality of my honing, however getting practice on cheap, non important items such as lawnmovers etc is the best way to learn


:roll: Pfftttt!!!

327 chev was the first one i did.

i do agree with you tho... :helloo:

& the 3 stone one's blow

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:40 am 
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royce wrote:
I guess it helps explain why so many people 'rebuild' engines that then proceed to still be shit or last a year before shitting themselves


I found that with my engine. I had a number of people on Outers say in my rebuild thread that rebuilt 1.3's often didn't make it past 20,000 kays. I had all the recon work done by a reputable engine builder and just did the teardown/rebuild myself with lots of new bits, quality oils etc. Has about 30,000km on it since then and purrs like a kitten.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:41 am 
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just make sure you get the engine bored out before you buy any pistons or rings for it

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:44 am 
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mondo wrote:
just make sure you get the engine bored out before you buy any pistons or rings for it


shit no!!!!!

ask the engine guy how far it needs to be bored to be into good metal, buy the pistons to suit then get each cylinder bored to suit that piston

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 8:55 am 
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steak_knife wrote:
mattybish wrote:
honing is a real art form, it is best to spend the money and get it done by a person who does it all the time, it takes an awful lot of practice to get the correct angles and material removal rates, not to mention lubrication rates etc, i have done a 4 year apprenticeship and am only just getting to the stage where i am really happy with the quality of my honing, however getting practice on cheap, non important items such as lawnmovers etc is the best way to learn


:roll: Pfftttt!!!

327 chev was the first one i did.

i do agree with you tho... :helloo:

& the 3 stone one's blow


Like he said....cheap and not important :crazy:

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:07 am 
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personally I think if you want an engine worth a pinch of shit, you should just get the machining and sizing work done by a qualified engine builder at the very least.

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Post Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 9:19 am 
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For a non piston replacement with new rings a bottle brush honing tool to rough up the cylinder wall should only be used . The ridge does not have to be removed , those do it youself honing stones always taper the bore or make it more out of round. This information comes from a very professional engine reconditioner , not out my ass , it's cheap to get block's bored and cross hatched honed , my last one was $90. There a some jobs that should be left to the experts , not a butch of pissed cunts on a friday night , Rage on , Cheers Paul.



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Post Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 12:06 am 
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Yeah, I think im just gunna get the pros to do it, and get it bored out if needed then get bigger pistons....

Anyone wanna buy a set of standard 1.6L Pistons and rings for cheap? :D

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Post Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 11:34 am 
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MART wrote:
For a non piston replacement with new rings a bottle brush honing tool to rough up the cylinder wall should only be used . The ridge does not have to be removed , those do it youself honing stones always taper the bore or make it more out of round. This information comes from a very professional engine reconditioner , not out my ass , it's cheap to get block's bored and cross hatched honed , my last one was $90. There a some jobs that should be left to the experts , not a butch of pissed cunts on a friday night , Rage on , Cheers Paul.



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Where has the cross hatch gone :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 12:05 pm 
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ball wrote:
MART wrote:
For a non piston replacement with new rings a bottle brush honing tool to rough up the cylinder wall should only be used . The ridge does not have to be removed , those do it youself honing stones always taper the bore or make it more out of round. This information comes from a very professional engine reconditioner , not out my ass , it's cheap to get block's bored and cross hatched honed , my last one was $90. There a some jobs that should be left to the experts , not a butch of pissed cunts on a friday night , Rage on , Cheers Paul.



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Where has the cross hatch gone :wink:
A short lived oil burner in progress??

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Post Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 5:57 pm 
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A short lived oil burner in progress??


I doubt we'd see one of those from Mart. He does top work.

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