[bristlenose2008]

I have been trying to manually remove the camshaft sprocket. No hope....

Looking at buying one of those cheap $50 Aldi or Bunnings rattle guns. Think they are electric (hope they aren't air).
Are they strong enough thou? Think they are about 500watt and 150mn or something like that.

[SierraDan]

Should be easy as pie. Is the belt still on?

[Fatzook]

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

[Scrawny]

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

[bristlenose2008]

it isn't in the car.

I could not loosen the sprocket bolt, so I moved on and have already removed the crank pulley & belt. Those were piss easy.

[Fatzook]

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

I've gotten it to work before.

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

[SierraDan]

I got mine off once with a shifter...

[Scrawny]

Fatzook wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

I've gotten it to work before.

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

Likewise on the rattlegun, but mines a Wurth (slightly better )

I have had limited success with wedging a lever bar or big screwdriver between one of the small bolts that hold the cover on behind the sprocket and the sprocket itself. You'll need a fairly long breaker bar for this

[bristlenose2008]

Fatzook wrote:

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

shite.........700Nm, that may be a little more than the $50 I was looking at spending tomorrow.
Think I will have to hire one.

[ajsr]

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

I've gotten it to work before.

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

Likewise on the rattlegun, but mines a Wurth (slightly better )

I have had limited success with wedging a lever bar or big screwdriver between one of the small bolts that hold the cover on behind the sprocket and the sprocket itself. You'll need a fairly long breaker bar for this

mmm wurth rattle gun, used one yesterday.. very nice and lots of nuts

[bristlenose2008]

ajsr .... the two before you were enough tease already!

I really need this shit off ASAP, I have to drop the cam shaft , crank shaft and block off at the machinist on Friday afternoon.

Damn it....

[royce]

Why do you need to take just the cam to the machinist? just get him to take it out.

like scrawn said you can wedge teh pulley and do it with a spanner (really its not tight but being impatient has made life difficult) but its easy to bend the pulley

and my Atlas Copco gun shits on you lots pissy little things, they know about stuff with air

[Fatzook]

royce wrote:

Why do you need to take just the cam to the machinist? just get him to take it out.

like scrawn said you can wedge teh pulley and do it with a spanner (really its not tight but being impatient has made life difficult) but its easy to bend the pulley

and my Atlas Copco gun shits on you lots pissy little things, they know about stuff with air

Compensating for your short stature maybe?

[FullyZooked]

ajsr wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

I've gotten it to work before.

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

Likewise on the rattlegun, but mines a Wurth (slightly better )

I have had limited success with wedging a lever bar or big screwdriver between one of the small bolts that hold the cover on behind the sprocket and the sprocket itself. You'll need a fairly long breaker bar for this

mmm wurth rattle gun, used one yesterday.. very nice and lots of nuts

Yup Wurth Premium Rattle Rated at 1,990Nm reverse from the top of my head.

Let me know if you want one

[alex]

FullyZooked wrote:

ajsr wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

I've gotten it to work before.

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

Likewise on the rattlegun, but mines a Wurth (slightly better )

I have had limited success with wedging a lever bar or big screwdriver between one of the small bolts that hold the cover on behind the sprocket and the sprocket itself. You'll need a fairly long breaker bar for this

mmm wurth rattle gun, used one yesterday.. very nice and lots of nuts

Yup Wurth Premium Rattle Rated at 1,990Nm reverse from the top of my head.
Let me know if you want one

is this the lil devil http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.a ... 2_0003.pdf

[Fatzook]

alex wrote:

FullyZooked wrote:

ajsr wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Scrawn wrote:

Fatzook wrote:

Use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe as an extention. Rest it against the chassis rail, remove the ignition lead and tap start once with the ign key. Should crack it. Make sure the breaker is on the right side of the engine bay though, as you will make a mess otherwise

Alrite for crank bolt but not as easy for cam.

I've gotten it to work before.

But it is a long way to the rail. I just use a snap off rattle gun these days. 700Nm in reverse is usually enough

Likewise on the rattlegun, but mines a Wurth (slightly better )

I have had limited success with wedging a lever bar or big screwdriver between one of the small bolts that hold the cover on behind the sprocket and the sprocket itself. You'll need a fairly long breaker bar for this

mmm wurth rattle gun, used one yesterday.. very nice and lots of nuts

Yup Wurth Premium Rattle Rated at 1,990Nm reverse from the top of my head.
Let me know if you want one

is this the lil devil http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.a ... 2_0003.pdf

Can't be. That one only has 800Nm in reverse.

[alex]

huh they dont list any others...

[stockman]

It's the 3/4" one.

[stockman]

This one http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.a ... 2_0004.pdf

[alex]

stockman wrote:

This one http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.a ... 2_0004.pdf

bit big for me...

[bristlenose2008]

in case anyone is interested how this is going.....I have managed to break the size 17 socket & bought a replacement one a few hours ago. My first Sidchrome brand of tools.

Only issue is I am borrowing an air compressor and an impact wrench tomorrow morning, and apparently the Sidchrome socket can easily break when using it on a rattle gun/impact wrench. Guess we will see tomorrow.

[SuziBlu]

Arn't they unconditionally guarantied.

[Fatzook]

bristlenose2008 wrote:

in case anyone is interested how this is going.....I have managed to break the size 17 socket & bought a replacement one a few hours ago. My first Sidchrome brand of tools.

Only issue is I am borrowing an air compressor and an impact wrench tomorrow morning, and apparently the Sidchrome socket can easily break when using it on a rattle gun/impact wrench. Guess we will see tomorrow.

thats why they make impact sockets

[tonyevans]

SuziBlu wrote:

Arn't they unconditionally guarantied.

Only till you break them then the warranty runs out

[alex]

Sidchrome NON impact sockets will not be covered under warranty if you use it on a rattel gun

[bristlenose2008]

okay, so this is what has happened. Ryobi 12 Volt Cordless impact driver, could eventually loosen the nut on the Cam Sprocket. Took a good 5 seconds thou.

What it could not do were the head bolts. Those hex shaped allan key type ones.

So I called in the another friend with a bigger gun. The tool brand was called Snap On and it was 18Volts.
With the exception of 2 bolts they all came out just fine. Those 2 would not budge no matter how long we had the tool on it. I was afraid the bolt will break.
With a 1meter breaker bar those last 2 bolts finally came undone.

Here are some pictures.

[bristlenose2008]

forgot only allowed one image per post for some silly reason

[bristlenose2008]

if anyone is interested on how the engine build is progressing, follow this thread

http://www.auszookers.com/index.php?nam ... ic&t=21731
Crank Balancing & engine building

[skyman]

Sometimes a little bit of heat from a propane will loosen them up enough to get them by hand.

[skyman]

uhmm... yeah.... just spray some propane on it lol.

I meant to say propane torch.