[TryHard]

Hey guys been thinking Scary thing ay

anyways was around at a friends place looking at 33s next to my 31s fingering out how im gonna fit things etc ...
and thought if i extend the wheel base front and rear then the cutting would be alot easier to do .. for the 33s maby 34x9 TSL i will later fit ... problem is i want it to flex
and still have guards left .. more ideas please haha

current set up is 2 inch EFS Springs 2 inch hangers 2 inch body ..

also ideas on how this could be done

or maby i should make mine stupid wide like this guy haha

http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread. ... 060&page=2

not that mine will ever flex that much lol but i also figgered if i was wider eg 2 inch that would be more out of the guard


... or i could just bloody coil the thing ,... but coil kits are to exp .. and to hard to fab stuff ... etc

[lump_a_charcoal]

Search full RUF.

[boostedbrick]

My 33's fit the rear in its stock position with minor scrubbing on the top of the gaurd, i did a 1inch lift on the gaurd. I moved my front diff forward 40 mm, lifted the guard 1 inch, massaged the headlight bucket alot and removed outriggers. A ruf would solve your diff placment issues, then it would just need some minor trimming.

Thats EFS, 2" shackel and 2 inch body.

[TryHard]

ok sounds good boosted thanks il check that out when i get the tyres

[Gwagensteve]

If you go full RUF with a 2" BL, 33's and 9/34 swampers will clear the firewall. The inner guard will need to be heavily hammered/removed around the headlight bucket.

Clearance at the rear won't really be a problem - some light hammering of the guard lip should do.

Here's a photo from about 1965 of Greg's old cappuccino engined junk.

Full RUF, small bumstop spacing on the front ( <1" from memory) Stock bumpstop configuration on the front, only moved forward for the RUF.

100mm shackles, 3 leaf OME packs, RS9010 front shocks on custom mounts, 2" BL.

The springs ran pretty flat at ride height. The RUF was at widetrack spring spacing.

No firewall mods at all. I think the seams were folded flat. That was it.

Rear guards were uncut. No bumpstop spacing on the rear.









Initially this car ran a drover front clip with the inner guards totally removed. After this clip was massacred, a sierra front clip went on with the inners just cut away around the back of the headlight. It was fine.

Steve.

[Gwagensteve]

PS I know it looks like this car has a terrible approach angle in the photo with it flexed up, but it's a bit of an optical illusion due to the huge scrub radius of those flipped and offset rims.

It wasn't necessary to offset the rims that much. If we built the same car today it would have narrow tracked front spring spacing to achieve full steering lock and much less rim offset. They were something like -50 offset on 6" rims, (Golly!) I built them in the shed and they weren't very true.

Steve.

[TryHard]

Thanks very much Steve for the info and the photos so looks like all i need to do now remove front inner clip and do Full RUFF .. 34 x 9 sounds ok ?

once again thanks for the advice also hate to be a pain but could i get a photo from the front haha the approach angle on front looks really good
?

[Gwagensteve]

It would be better if you didn't fully remove the inner guards. It makes the front guards very floppy, means you have to move the battery and air filter, and looks like cop bait. The only bit of inner guard that's the problem is just near the headlight.

This is the only photo of the front I could find. I totally forgot we made that little front bar!



It's worth noting that t his car had an excessively long chassis extension, and still has WT spring spacing. Have a look at AJSR's RUF thread for how small the extension can be - which helps approach angle.

Steve.