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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:13 am 
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Just trying to better understand auto lockers..
What is actually happening in the diff when the locker is banging. Not ratcheting?

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:18 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
Just trying to better understand auto lockers..
What is actually happening in the diff when the locker is banging. Not ratcheting?


With mine occassionally don't ratchet, under load/wind up...
then suddenly lets go.
Getting less and lees frequent with use.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:57 am 
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christover1 wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
Just trying to better understand auto lockers..
What is actually happening in the diff when the locker is banging. Not ratcheting?


With mine occassionally don't ratchet, under load/wind up...
then suddenly lets go.

Getting less and lees frequent with use.



I found with mine, if i didnt apply throttle correctly around corners it would load up and then bang as it finally lets go. Try not to use throttle around corners..

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:01 am 
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boostedbrick wrote:
christover1 wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
Just trying to better understand auto lockers..
What is actually happening in the diff when the locker is banging. Not ratcheting?


With mine occassionally don't ratchet, under load/wind up...
then suddenly lets go.

Getting less and lees frequent with use.



I found with mine, if i didnt apply throttle correctly around corners it would load up and then bang as it finally lets go. Try not to use throttle around corners..


My rear never does it, has a lot of k's on it. (lock rite)
Front does it sometimes, but that is fairly new. (spartan)
It had a tight pin in it, so that could be it.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:06 am 
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So the cross pins being a bit tight can't cause excessive banging?
Why is that?
I understand that the cross pins need to move freely, why is it so?

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:20 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
So the cross pins being a bit tight can't cause excessive banging?
Why is that?
I understand that the cross pins need to move freely, why is it so?

I did not mean the cross pins, sorry
I meant locker locating pins/springs.
1 of mine was a little tight in its hole.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:32 am 
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christover1 wrote:
SierraDan wrote:
So the cross pins being a bit tight can't cause excessive banging?
Why is that?
I understand that the cross pins need to move freely, why is it so?

I did not mean the cross pins, sorry
I meant locker locating pins/springs.
1 of mine was a little tight in its hole.


These are the pins that caused me grief in my rear one, both of mine were very tight, the front was fine though..

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:33 am 
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i hated my locker for this reason. didnt matter how i drove still did it. was violent some times 2, nearly made me run of the road more than once!

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:20 am 
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I have Spartans and the Rear Bangs quite often,about to pull pumpkin out and recheck components and backlash setting

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:29 am 
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Mine did it quite a bit to start with, but now only bangs when at car park speeds on high traction surfaces, ie tar. Not sure if this is due to settling in of the locker or minor adjustments I've made to my driving style. I tend to feather the accelerator round corners rather than no throttle at all. You will get used to what it needs the more you drive it

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:30 am 
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Yeh i had on in my cruiser, i think they are dangerous especially in a heavier truck in the wet, my cruiser was a middy and once the back let go she spun right round. Lucky no one else was coming the other way when it happened.
(lock-rite) i am going to spend the money on an air locker it nicer on the rest of the car aswell due to the fact that you can turn it off.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:47 am 
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There is nothing wrong with auto lockers when set up correctly (i.e. by a professional) Mine was set up properly from the start and has been perfect ever since :helloo:

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:47 am 
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Is banging damaging to the diff?

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:21 am 
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if you set the back lash and side gears right could be worn bearings, tyre psi crap like that.

when is is going bang?

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:28 am 
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mine doesn't make a sound on the road, oh thats right mine go pssssst psssst when i want :thefinger:

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:56 am 
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I dunno what I did. But I did it. Having another go on te weekend. It goes bang when it SHOULD be ratcheting. Everything was immaculate in the diff, even the housing gasket goo was newish. I think it's a rebuilt diff.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:00 am 
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sometimes the little cage, that holds the diff cross pins,
can be too thick, not allowing locker to slide away from side gears far enough. bit of trimming down, or different cage can fix it.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:02 am 
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Mine usually bangs and jumps on turning and sometimes when taking off in straight line haven't driven very much since putting Spartan inn

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 12:45 pm 
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I would say you haven't left enough clearence for the teeth to disengage properly and the bang is when it is forced to jump a tooth.if there was enough clearence it would ratchet.
Did you dummy assemble it without the springs and see if the side gears spin freely like to book say's? ( sorry just remembered yours was a spartan the lockright book say's to do that) I can elaborate if need be.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 6:44 pm 
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I tried to see if it worked before I fully assembled it, but I couldn't get it to budge so I left it thinking I haven't got enough force to get it to unlock.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:23 pm 
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mine was reshimed 3 times b4 i swaped it out 4 a weldy. 2000000000000x better and much more safe.

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Post Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 11:19 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
I tried to see if it worked before I fully assembled it, but I couldn't get it to budge so I left it thinking I haven't got enough force to get it to unlock.



If you asemmble it without the springs and a side gear facing up the coupler (for the want of a better word) should drop away from the side gear allowing the side gear to spin freely and if you turn the center over the other side gear should do the same. If it doesn't do that you don't have enough clearence between the teeth and need to space the sidegears out.

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Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 6:45 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
mine was reshimed 3 times b4 i swaped it out 4 a weldy. 2000000000000x better and much more safe.

Be quiet. Your opinon is irrelevant because you probably did a backyard job on it anyway. :roll:

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